Accord Stumbling and Gear Problem

[donc]

Hi everybody,
I have an Accord 93 with A/T.
I have some problems and unfortunately I cant trust mechanics around me. I’ve spend lots of money for full engine rectification but still the engine is not smooth.

1) My first problem: When I press the gas pedal both in P and D the car is stumbling and rpm becomes erratic. If I dont press gas pedal its idling very smooth. I’ve just replaced fuel filter, IACV and FITV. Besides I also have lpg in my car. And same problem exists when I switch to LPG. Also there is some oil leakage around distributor since long time, but this stumbling problem is new.
Here is a video of the problem:

2) My second problem: Most of the time the a/t shifts from 1 to 2 only after 4000 rpm in D3 and D4. But if gear is in 2 it shifts from 1 to 2 very smooth.
For example if I’m going in 2nd gear in D2 (2) and if I move gear to D3 or D4 the a/t will drop to 1 and rpm will surge. It seems in D3 and D4 somehow the car needs over 4000 rpm to move into 2nd gear.
Or if I’m driving in D3 or D4 and rpm starts to go higher than 2000 and the a/t doesnt shift from 1 to 2 and if I lower gear to D2, the a/t immediately shifts from 1 to 2 and the engine relaxes.
There is no Transmission error code or anything blinking.

Any help will be very appreciated.
Thanks.

Topic

[hondaguy453]

Your IAT sensor looks like this. You should have one somewhere on the intake duct.
http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/air-charge-temperature-sensor/honda/accord/1993/4-cylinders-2-2l-fi?filterByKeyWord=intake+air+temperature+sensor&fromString=search

[donc]

Ok Ill not use them again.
Ill order valve cover gasket kit as you advised.
Actually Im a bit far from first 2 problems. Coz the car used to start back then. Now it doesnt start at all.
And Im getting those two error codes since one year. I still think something else is the problem other than error codes.
As far as I remember sparks were whitish.
Btw I wasnt able to check plugs themselves.
Ill try tomorrow if it starts without map sensor coz its dark now. But what I remember was when car was working, if I disconnect map sensor, the car used to stop.
I appreciate very much your help. Hope I can solve this thing with your help. At least to let it start..

[hondaguy453]

No prob dude! Let us know what you find. I’ll try to think of other things.

[hondaguy453]

Since you need air, fuel and spark for combustion and you have 2 out of the 3, let’s go with air. I’m curious to see if your car will start if you disconnect the IAC. If it does start, plug it back in and have someone start the car while you tap on the IAC with a screwdriver or something. Don’t hit it too hard though.

[donc]

Ive disconnected Map sensor and it didnt start. Ive also disconnected IACV and it didnt start again.

[donc]

Ok Ive found the problem. Wrong spark wire order)
So we are back to first two problems.
Shaking when pressed the gas pedal.
And sometimes high rpm shift from 2 to 3 in D3 and D4.

[hondaguy453]

Ohh haha, gotcha. Cool, at least you got it to start again.
Do you have a vacuum gauge? Apply vacuum to the EGR valve and see if the car stalls. If it does stall then the valve is okay. You should also check for binding in the diaphragm when you apply vacuum. You’ll need a small mirror for this. If there is binding when vacuum is applied, replace the egr valve. If you don’t have a vacuum gauge you can also suck on the vacuum line lol. Sometimes I do that if I can’t find my gauge or I’m too lazy to go look for it lol.

As for the trans prob, that might just be due to mileage. Maybe the clutch packs slipping? I’m not too much of a trans guy. Maybe someone else can chime in.

I also wanna mention that on these F series motors the EGR ports on top of the intake manifold, above the runners tend to get clogged with carbon. So even if the car doesn’t stall while you’re applying vacuum, the clogged ports and the EGR valve may be the problem. The ports are kind of a pain in the butt to clean too. But let us know what you find with the EGR and we can go from there.

[donc]

Yea, by the same time I was able to seal and revive distributor during checkups.

I dont have. Is vacuum gauge sth like this?:
http://www.ziraimarket.com/LS-513-Manometre-Buyuk,PR-4713.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwvo6wBRCG3Zv92ZSLlIYBEiQA5PLVArfu1aMzGl5KrG8UB0ngifedFx2gzKWjMkX8XNF9tY0aAveS8P8HAQ

And how Im gonna connect this?

If I want to suck it myseld should I suck from upper side or below side of EGR valve?

Also I couldnt understand what is binding on diaphragm, sorry:)

[hondaguy453]

What I meant to say was a vacuum pump haha. I’m sorry about that. Yes, that is correct. That’s a vacuum gauge :). This is what a vacuum pump looks like, which is what I meant to say haha.

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/25136/image/4/

You can disconnect the number 16 vacuum line from the EGR valve. This is the line you will apply vacuum to (whether you use a pump or suck on it). The orange rubber thing is the diaphragm in this pic. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/wl2/EGR4030/3/image/4/
This is what you will be looking at when you apply vacuum to the egr. Make sure it moves freely. If it binds (gets stuck, or hesitates to move), then you should replace the egr. You can also try cleaning it and reinstalling if you want to see if that takes care of it.

[donc]

Hey,
sorry for late reply.
I’m just back from travel and I was struggling with fuel leak problem. There was a leak from injectors and I siliconed them. Seems fine for now)
So back to the real problem 🙂 Which is erratic idle when pressed gas pedal initially.
So what you mean by applying vacuum to egr is; to remove the black pipe and suck air with my mouth from the egr valve? I guess it wont be very healthy) I also saw somewhere that people used to remove a vacuum line from some other part of the car and attach it to egr valve instead of sucking by pump or mouth. Can you help me to do in that way please? Otherwise I am gonna use my lungs:)

[donc]

Another video about same problem

[EricTheCarGuy]

OK, I see a lot of things wrong here. First, anytime you alter a Honda, it often invites problems. Looks like you have a few modifications, including an LPG conversion. I would inspect every part of that system to make sure it’s hooked up correctly, if it’s not, it can effect the other systems. Second, Honda’s very rarely have fuel delivery issues. That is unless someone has messed with it or changed the fuel pump to an aftermarket unit. I’d table the fuel pressure search until you’ve resolved the other potential problems. Aftermarket distributors on Hondas are also a known issue. Lastly, if you don’t use Honda transmission fluid you will often have shifting problems.

As for the IAT code. It is possible to switch connectors at the throttle body between the IAC and IAT. The connectors and sensors are color coded. If memory serves, one is green and one is white. The green connector goes to the green component, and the other connector goes to the other component. This is a common mistake when those connectors get disconnected.

With all of that said, do what you can to put everything back the way it was before the modifications. I suspect there’s something with the wiring or some aftermarket part that’s contributing to the problem.

I’ve written extensively about solving performance issues like this here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

I’ve written extensively about idle problems here with a particular emphasis on Honda idle problems.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems

I’ve written extensively about transmission issues here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems

I’d suggest you read over those articles and watch the videos within them to gain insight into your issues.

Good luck and please keep us updated on your progress.

[donc]

Hi,
I sucked the air from egr port as you advised and car has stalled as you can see from the video. But I dont know how to see binding. I don’t know actually where to look for it.
I also removed the egr valve and pushed the pin upwards and it worked well. also when i close the vacuum port the pin binds upwards/it doesnt come down; which I guess proves that egr valve works fine.

[donc]

Hi Eric,
first of all thanks for your interest on my post.
There are some imporevement thanks to hondaguy453 since my first post.
1) I misread the obd codes. The errors are not iat and iacv but iat and egr.
2) there wasnt a fuel delivery issue. I just misconnected the spark wires. now car starts fine.

I have watched carefully most of your videos. They were very inspiring and I tried to apply the principles you showed as much as I can.

Yes I have lpg and some engine check lights, oil lights etc.. But the car didnt have this shaky engine before I gave it to mechanic. It was speeding up fine. As I told in previous posts my biggest issue now is that when I press the gas pedal the car is shaking/stumbling/hesitating. Unless I increase the speed and rpm very fast its very uncomfortable.

So far I checked egr with applying vacuum with my mouth and engine stalled. Which I think means egr ports are open.

So I would be glad if you can assist me in this issue.

Here how it drives.

[Author]

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