Accord o2 sensor

[JIm Herrle]

9/14 my check engine indicator lit and wouldn’t self cancel. Suspecting a faulty sensor, I took the car (97 Accord, vtec 2.2L) to my friendly local
Honda dealer where I previously had a defective sensor replaced under emisions extended warranty. I was informed that warranty no longer applies since car has surpassed 100K/ 14 year factory limit. $115 dollars lighter, I was informed that the forward o2 sensor was defective and a Honda replacement
part would cost $322 plus $200 dollars in labor. Naturally I applied Erics “get dirty” logic and bought a Bosch sensor and installed it yesterday (9/15).
To my chagrin, the check engine indicator is still on full time. What are my options to resolve this problem?
Thanks in advance to Eric and thew contributors of this invaluable self- help site.

Topic

[Shirokuma]

I thought oxygen sensors die with the car (250K miles). I can get a used sensor for $7.99 at the junkyard. No matter the price, Eric would tell you not to throw parts at the problem. I recognize his skills in diagnostics, and bow before his greatness. Can you tell I don’t want to work today?

Jeff

[rice400]

Well If the o2 sensor was in fact bad, it might take a little while for the code to clear. If you have a code reader you can clear the code manually, or disconnect the neg battery cable for a few minutes and see if the code comes back..

[RichWhitehead]

i’m with rice400 —
disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes.
that will probably clear the CEL if, in fact the CEL was related to the O2 sensor in the first place.
if the CEL is still there and you don’t have a code reader take vehicle to your local auto parts store and let them use their code reader. if there’s one thing that most of us ETCG disciples can tell you, Eric continually preaches diagnostics against throwing money at parts and hoping for the best.
good luck

[johnzcarz]

I agree with Rich.
Codes can clear themselves but it can take some time (x number of drive-cycles), so just disconnect the battery to manually clear them.

Also, I think Honda’s of that generation still allowed you to manually get the codes by ‘reading’ the blinks on the Check Engine Light like we used to do on the old GMs. Maybe someone here can tell you the right jumper locations to get the codes displayed if you don’t want to take it to the autoparts place to do it.

[dreamer2355]

Im going to be under the assumption that they checked the obvious such as fuses, exhaust and vacuum leaks and used a scope to look at the 02 wave forms checking for voltage etc before just telling you that your sensor is bad…

[pcmdjason]

I know a lot of people have had problems with Bosch sensors on Mitsubishi eclipses and Galants not clearing the codes. But the ones with Denso sensors worked great. In fact every person who swapped the Bosch for a Denso got the code to clear and stay clear.

So the general rule of thumb at least for the Mitusbishi Galant and Eclipse is avoid the Bosch sensors like the plague. When I did the sensor in my wife’s Galant luckily I got a Denso sensor (at the time I didn’t know about the issues with Bosch) and it looked identical to the sensor pulled out so it worked perfectly.

I think the Bosch sensors use slots and the Denso sensors use holes. Not sure if that matters or not.

Looks like some folks agree..

Honda Tech

They said the Bosch sensors don’t seem to react as fast as the Denso ones.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Yea start by clearing the code and then see if it’s still there, the easiest thing to do would be to disconnet the negative battery cable for a few seconds and then recheck for the light. If you still have one then pull the code or have it pulled and see what fault is indicated and go from there.

[JIm Herrle]

9/17 First, let me thank all who took the time to respond to my plea for help in resolving my o2 sensor issue. Following “rice’s” suggestion, and those who
posted the same advice, I disconnected the – batt. cable for 30 secs. , reconnected the cable and started the engine. The code cleared! Lessons i’ve learned from my experience and the responses I gratefully received following my post: I had no idea that parts suppliers offer a code scan service; excellent resource to file for future problems related to code scans. Dreamer 2355 offered a detailed, step by step fault checking procedure by suggesting checks for “fuses, exhaust and vacuum leaks, along with a scope analysis to track o2 wave forms ( I assume this service would be available thru the same parts vendors who offer code checks for those of us without an oscilloscope or the ability to read one). I also was ignorant of the problem with Bosch v. Denso sensors and hope that others can benefit from that observation. Lastly, I’d like to wrap up this long-winded response with a sincere thanks to those who so willingly give of themselves in sharing their experiences and or knowledge with the rest of us who can benefit from their insight. Finally, a shout out to our guru who started this website in response to a widespread need for self- help; Eric, love you man!

[johnzcarz]

Quoted From greaser365:

9/17 … checks for “fuses, exhaust and vacuum leaks, along with a scope analysis to track o2 wave forms ( I assume this service would be available thru the same parts vendors who offer code checks for those of us without an oscilloscope or the ability to read one)….

Generally not. They will read out the codes, replace a battery, test alternators/starters but they don’t do diagnostics – nor would I want them to!

[redfury]

Greaser, let us know if the codes stay cleared after a few times out driving the car. Clearing the code may remove it for now, but if there is a secondary problem, it could reappear within a few drive cycles. Not all codes show immediately, some are considered “pending” by the computer and will become active after they have been “noticed” enough times to set the check engine light ( CEL ) again.

[Author]

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