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So guys I have a 1990 Honda Accord DX 2.2 Liter engine, it also has 267k on the body. As far as engine swaps and trans swaps and things like that I’m unsure of. However the cats and exhaust system have been replaced. But I’m still having an acceleration issue as well as applying gas. You see the car starts, but when I apply gas after it’s up to operating temp. it sputters then dies, or it will roll because it’s in drive then speed off. At first I thought it was because of the spark plugs. After I replaced those the problem was still there, so I call the guy who is trying to get me to take this car over my 95 Honda civic cx 5 speed. He thinks it’s because it had no gas and the timing belt was off. But I think he is just lying to me and trying to hit me in the head for the nicer car. You see I’m a young tech that just started working at Honda so I don’t know everything about Hondas and cars in general and need some tips on how to fix this problem because the car is unsafe and not drivable. Any tips, guides, or even answers would be great!
So far I’ve replaced the spark plugs, put gas in, added coolant (it eats coolant), and I’m having the timing belt fixed tomorrow by his cousin. However if that isn’t fixing the issue the man agreed to fix everything on the car to make it up to standards of the state of Delaware, and my safety. if he can’t do so the trade is off and I’m taking my car back.
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see if this link helps. No check engine light?
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Unplug your throttle position sensor and see if the car does the exact same thing. If so, replace it. If not, unplug the MAF sensor and see if the symptom changes. If it doesnt change, replace maf. Otherwise it is, in fact a timing issue.
I just fixed a 90 Accord. had a similar issue. At normal Operating temp, when driving at speed,. apply throttle,.. it would sputter and nearly die… did stall once on me. The clue is “after it gets to normal temp” It’s in closed loop. What ended up fixing this accord was replacing the O2 sensor. I only stumble onto this cause I suspected plugged exhaust. (which might have been why the CAT was replaced on yours) So I pulled the O2 sensor, and installed a back pressure gauge. Test drove the car again, and it was driving like a new car. (minimal back pressure) Only change was removing the O2 sensor. Put in a new O2, and all was well.
I did have a code in the car but it was a generic fuel system code,. so I have to do step by step and verify each system. But the symptom was a classic plugged exhaust. Hope that helps.
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