ac compressor noise

[rice400]

Got a 99 chevy s10 88k miles, 4.3 V6.

Topic

[firebirdjimbo]

i think if it was the compressors clutch it would happen all the time, probably just a bad bearing in the compressor. if you look around on ebay you can get an ac compressor bypass pully, which you just install where your ac compressor is and that will solve the problem. i had to do that in my 93 cadillac seville.

[Matt]

Before you even bother replacing the belt or installing an idler pulley, I would simply unplug the connector to the clutch coil. This will allow you to at least run yer defroster without the noise, but it won’t be as effective without the dehumidifying action the a/c performs. Then, when you get a new compressor, you haven’t wasted money on a shorter belt and an idler.

[EricTheCarGuy]

It sounds like a compressor problem, I agree that it’s probably not the clutch but you could always put your hand on it with the engine off to see if you feel any play, if you do you might start with the clutch. They do make shorter belts as many engines did not come with AC so you should be able to find a belt that will “bypass” the compressor.

[rice400]

Hey Eric (or anyone else) if the compressor is in fact bad is it as simple (I use that term loosely) as removing the old compressor, slapping a new one on and recharging the system? Or is it WAY more complicated than that? I know compressors runs about $200 on up but I was just wondering about everyone saying it cost them more than a thousand dollars to replace it. If its gonna cost that much to replace it I’ll wait till we are studying heating and cooling in my auto tech program and then it wont cost anything for labor. What can ya tell me?

Thanks boss

[BigC]

In order to obtain the warranty for the compressor, the accumulator and orifice tube typically have to be replaced as well. Or receiver/dryer if the AC system has a thermal expansion value (TXV). The amount of oil in the old compressor also needs to be measured, with replacement oil (PAG) added to the new compressor. If you are changing out the accumulator, then the oil in that component needs to be taken into consideration as well.

So yes, it is a little more involved than just changing out the compressor. I learned this the hard way, before I took the HVAC class in Automotive Technology. If it your HVAC class is not off in the too distant future, your vehicle would make for an excellent project for lab. Nothing like working on your own vehicle in lab, and making it better!

[EricTheCarGuy]

Quoted From BigC:

In order to obtain the warranty for the compressor, the accumulator and orifice tube typically have to be replaced as well. Or receiver/dryer if the AC system has a thermal expansion value (TXV). The amount of oil in the old compressor also needs to be measured, with replacement oil (PAG) added to the new compressor. If you are changing out the accumulator, then the oil in that component needs to be taken into consideration as well.

So yes, it is a little more involved than just changing out the compressor. I learned this the hard way, before I took the HVAC class in Automotive Technology. If it your HVAC class is not off in the too distant future, your vehicle would make for an excellent project for lab. Nothing like working on your own vehicle in lab, and making it better!

I would also like to add that you will need to evacuate the system and put a vacuum on it for a time before recharging it as you need to remove as much moisture from the system as possible before recharging it.

[rice400]

well i took a look at it again. There seems to be a black wetness (bad explanation) around the middle of the compressor, like around a seal or something. I’m guessing that it began to leak oil and caused the compressor to crap out. Thanks again for all the help, i’ll wait till Spring till i fix it. Interesting that it still blew nice cold air (on the highway) even when the compressor was going bad, now it doesnt blow cold air ever. Anyway, see ya’ll later.

Peace.

[Author]

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