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Hello everyone,
I’m replacing the AC system (Compressor, Condensor, Accumulator, Orifice tube, and AC Lines on a 1996 Chevy Caprice 5.7 V8.
From what I’ve read it’s custom to drain all of the oil out of the compressor and then refill based on the requirements of the system.
My shop manual even says drain all of the oil out of the new compressor and put in new PAG oil.
My only question is, the new compressor (4 seaons (www.4s.com) has warnings in 3 places, in the booklet it came with, on a label and on the shrink wrap around the compressor in the packaging saying NOT TO DRAIN THE OIL since it’s a small amount. They seem pretty serious about this.
“Compressors are shipped with assembly lube or ICE32 DO NOT DRAIN. add the correct type and amount of lubricant per system specifications”
Thoughts?
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Generally if it is labeled like that it has a “correct” amount. If you used a machine to evacuate it will remove a good amount of oil from the system. If you didn’t use a machine all the parts will still have oil in them and require extra oil. Does your manual give you an ac oil amount spec?
I won’t be using a machine but I will be using a vacuum pump so that should leave all of the oil in there (since the lower pressure boils out water in the system)
Neither the condenser nor accumulator that arrived has any oil in them (determined by holding upside down) and I will be flushing out the evaporator with flush and compressed air so that is going to be empty as well.
My shop manual has the following specs:
Condenser: 1oz
Evaporator: 3oz
Accumulator: 3.5oz
Compressor: 1 oz if it contains 1oz or less or the same volume of the previous compressor.The manual that the compressor came with said that it comes with either “Assembly oil or Ice32”. Ice32 is in the pag oil I purchased (Interdynamics) so I think it could either be just straight Ice32, a blend (like what I purchased) or just 150 oil.
So I’m left with two questions:
how do I know the maximum capacity of the system
do i really risk damaging anything by removing the refrigerant in the compressor? can’t I hold it upside down and rotate it to lube the front seals on it the best I can.I would add oil to the parts as specified by the manual. Since you’re flushing the parts. If it were me I would dump the compressor measure it and make sure its around 1 ozone and dump it back in. You may have to turn the pulley to get it all out and in
Sounds like a reasonable idea. The only thing I’m wondering about though is shouldn’t this compressor have it’s own specification for capacity? (It doesn’t)
By the way, if the compressor has 1 oz in it, the entire system therefore would take 8.5 oz.
Would it be acceptable to put 4oz in the accumulator and the other 4 in the compressor?
Or should I put a little in the evaporator, condenser, accumulator and compressor?
There really isn’t a spec on compressors. Intact mist if the specifications I see are whole system not by component. You need to space oil where it wants it. Honestly 8 oz seems a bit much but I am probably wrong. As soon as you start charging it and/or running the system the oil will disperse.
Interesting. The manual said something along the lines that all service compressors come with 8 oz and should be “drained and retained”. My guess is that it comes with oil to prevent the compressor from seizing up while not in use and on the shelf before purchase.
By the way which ports should I add the oil from? I read suction side on both the accumulator and compressor but how do I determine those? Is the suction side of the accumulator the one leading to the compressor?
Is the suction side of the compressor the one leading to the accumulator?
Won’t adding oil to the suction side of the compressor damage it or will it just drop into the sump pit on the compressor?
The Accumulator is located between the Evaporator and the A/C Compressor Suction. In my opinion I would strongly suggest talking to the people you bought the parts from to address your concerns to protect your warranty.
As long as the component has oil in it, it doesn’t matter what side you pour it in. When I do compressors at work generally one side will take oil easier, obviously going to use that side. Condensors will just take it if you trickle it in, same as accumulators.
I’ve decided to take whatever oil is in it out of it and keeping it on the side. Should there be a disaster I’ll just put it back in. Not like they’ll be able to tell anyway..
I think I’m over-complicating this, so I’ll just keep it simple. Few questions:
When I add oil to the new compressor it says to hold it upside down (pulley down I guess?) and rotate it. What exactly is the point of this?
Do I need to Push the clutch into the body of the pulley when I rotate it by hand so that everything gets coated?
One other question regarding reading the gauges. I get the point of the PSI/HG scale but what is the point of the scale for the R134a?
I think you are overcomplicating this. If it’s labeled that it’s shipped with the correct amount of oil in it you should take it at it’s word and just install the compressor. I would not recommend draining any oil out. I would replace the compressor, vacuum down the system, and recharge it.
More info on HVAC here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-hvac-problems
Good luck and keep us posted
Hey Eric, JTF gave the best advice. Also I got a second interesting answer to my o-ring question that I had on facebook along with some charging proceures.
I got in touch with the manufacturer of my compressor and I learned a lot of stuff based on their site. (4s.com) It’s really become quite the project but once this is done I’m going to be sharing all of my findings. I’ll make a video and post it on youtube in the near future and place a link in here as well. I’m actually pretty psyched about this project.
It should be completed next weekend.
Just wanted to revive this topic one more time, I had two minor questions:
On the manifold gauge it shows the temperature of the refrigerant (it’s relative to the pressure in the system too). When is the temperature of the refrigerant important? I’ve read it’s used for “fine tuning’ but I dont know what that means or how to fine tune that. Is there a chart for this?
Question 2: If the air gap on the compressor is too small what will the consequences be if we run it without adjusting it?
You really don’t worry about the temperature of the refrigerant so much as the pressure. Pressure is what is important. In fact, I don’t know of a way to measure refrigerant temperature anyway. I’m not familiar with gauges that have the temperature listed.
If the air gap on the clutch is too small, it can cause the parts to come into contact when they shouldn’t. This can wear the clutch faster and also possibly overheat the compressor.
I’ve written extensively about this topic in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-hvac-problems
Ok this is getting frustrating.
I changed the compressor, the condenser, the orifice tube the accumulator, the compressor to condenser lines, flushed the system and then put 4oz of pag oil in the accumulator and 4oz of pag oil in the compressor but now when I turn the car on the compressor is short cycling.
I evacuated the system and it holds a vacuum.I tried charging it from a 30lb canister to the harbor freight manifold gauges but it only takes a small amount of refrigerant and just sits there with the valve open.
I’m charging on the low side.
low pressures are reaching between 60-80psi and high pressures go up to almost 500. I know this is much too high.
What might be causing this to happen?
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