ABS Light Come on.NO ABS Code BUT TCS Code!

[jenaflex]

1997 Acura 3.5 RL

My car has buzzing noise from the passenger side front quite often(most of this noise comes when start up the engine).

9 out of 10, this noise goes away in a few seconds. Sometimes, it stay larger then 30 seconds.

I ignored this issue for a while.

It happened today that ABS light went off right after I started engine, but 1 minute later it came on and stayed on when I was on the way to school. When I left school(I tried again), I started up engine, ABS went off and came on and stayed on after 1 minutes.

When ABS light comes on, there is NO TCS light on.

I did have TCS light blinking once recently while I took off from a stop light and there was cupped bad pavement with water building up in it. So it make sense that I lost some traction when I took off.

I checked out Eric’s pull out codes from service port by shorting 2 pins.

Here is the result,

ABS light:
1 short blink after I turn the key to ON. NO repeating after that.
(I think it is not stored ABS code. Because stored code should repeat, right?)

TCS light:
repeating
31: three long blink, a long pause, one short blink.
58: five long blink, a long pause, eight short blink.

I pulled out the fuses of ABS unit 7.5A, ABS B1 15A, TCS15A, ABS B2 20A. They look all good. Then, I ASSUME I clear all the code because I pulled all the ABS related fuse out.

Then, I check stored code again. SAME code, NO ABS code, same TCS code.

I am confused… Why I have ABS light on while driving, but only stored TCS code.

________
Background
My recent work was clean the EGR pipe and the inlet hole where EGR pipe connects to the intake(using screwdriver and toothbrush), about two weeks ago. Check Engine Light went away and never come back.
I have small hand, so I only removed the bar across the engine(which is holding AC low pressure line) and got the work done. I may have used a bit too much carb cleaner. When I first started up engine after putting EGR pipe back on, engine ran very rough. I raise up RPM a little. After a while, it ran very smooth and normally.

This picture shows that EGR is still quite away from ABS.

Attachments:

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Topic

[Carlos]

What I know the ABS and Traction Control module work together in most cars. Code 31 shows to be ABS right- front inlet solenoid valve malfunction. The noise coming from the ABS pump assembly located on right-front of vehicle. I use to replace allot of these pumps at one time. They were leaking and had to buy a new unit.I suggest to use a Diagnosis tree to locate the cause. Because this pump runs 700 bones. Steve had the same problem
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/4ko4r-honda-civic-want-know-look-solution.html. You can find a diagnosis tree at http://www.alldatadiy.com/. (94-97) ABS DTCs…
1 – ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 – rear wheel lock – R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock – R
5 8 rear wheel lock – L
6 – fail-safe relay – F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay – F
6 4 fail-safe relay – R
7 1 solenoid – RF
7 2 solenoid – LF
7 4 solenoid – R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-check

[jenaflex]

Thank you.

I went to Honda dealer several weeks ago and they told me it is due to ABS accumulator leak. I searched online and people say sometimes it is due to leaking of the o ring for accumulator. I took off the ABS unit and replaced that today, it doesn’t solve problem.

BTW, another symptom that I forgot to mention, I saw some fluid leaking out from the top cap of ABS reservoir. It seems to me, pressure restriction in modulator can cause this symptom.

1. “Code 31 shows to be ABS right- front inlet solenoid valve malfunction.” Is solenoid valve located in the modulator unit?

Is that possible, that the solenoid just stuck somewhere due to dust or clogging(Can I try opening it and flushing it?)? Or I should replace the whole modulator?

2. I took of ABS unit and its brake line, so I had to bleed air out of brake system using soda bottle + plastic hose. I did passenger rear, driver rear, driver front and passenger front because it seems, passenger rear is the farthest one, then driver rear… so on. Did I bleed them in correct order? Also, when I got all clear fluid out of hose to soda bottle, I can still see some very fine bubble, like bubble in beer. I waited a couple minutes and shut off bleeder valve. Will these fine air bubble in the brake line cause big problem?

[Gumpy Guss]

I would not worry about ABS. Over a billion dollars have been spent on ABS systems, and it’s not clear that a single life has been saved as a result.

Just pull the ABS fuses and go on with your life. The systems are designed to fail-safe, when they’re not powered they’re just a dead box teed off the brake lines, your normal braking system will still function as always.

[Author]

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