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1997 Dodge Avenger
Ok so my ABS light has been on forever, my OBD2/ABS diagnostics device couldn’t pull anything, and the mechanic I took it to said that I needed to replace my ABS control module.
So I finally got one that was told to me to be working out of a same year model/engine
My three fold question is do I need to have it reprogrammed for my car?
If I do, can I just have the car itself program it by resetting — ie., disconnecting the battery, and then swapping out; (but then again since it is part of the electrical system I might end up disconnecting the battery so that I don’t run the chance of ruining a good part)
or lastly is it okay to just swap out?Thank you for any help ahead of time.
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I think the real question is what evidence do you have that the ABS computer is bad? What evidence did the mechanic present to support his argument? My point is unless you have some proof that it’s bad you could be wasting your time.
Well he didn’t really go into detail with me other than the same issue I had with my ABS Diagnostics Tool giving me the message that it wasn’t able to communicate; The device does not seem to be the issue as OBD2 still works fine though, and has worked on other cars as well. So I have no way to find the codes to what specifically needs to be replaced.
My factory service manual only gives me options for troubleshooting when I can pull a code, nothing for when I cannot get one. So I’m running on the assumption that it needs to be replaced.
What else is there to check?
Check the ABS module connector for corroded pins and a proper grounding. Not sure but I think there are 4 sensors (1 per wheel) and one at the pump. Does the FSM give you any info on what to check for at those points?
Yes it gives me a voltage check and oscilloscope test (which I don’t have) for the wheel sensors. It gives me a voltage check for the ecu as well, but says nothing about the control module, which is weird.
For right now this is just an update, as I currently have an idea what needs to taken care of just unsure where I am going to get the parts.
Yes you were right Eric, as I found out one of the few things that actually changed from my model year to the next (which is the only service manual I could find at the time I bought it) was the ABS System itself, the codes as well as the component locations. What the mechanic that I had taken it to called the control module was in fact the ABS ECU.
Well I found a used one online, as previously posted. I replaced it according to normal electronics procedures, (disconnecting battery — allowing it to re-integrate) and the ABS light was off, for about a day, before it came back on again.
After discovering the discrepancy in model years for this assembly, I finally found a good copy of the same year service manual for my car. I went through all of the voltage checks that it recommended, and everything except for the valve relay came up good at the ECU connector. However, once I get to the motor/relay box in the engine bay as the next step the readings were all over the charts, including giving me a different reading for the relays. I check the wiring diagrams and it turns out there are different colored wires in the wrong spot where they are supposed to be in the connector but its a factory part and doesn’t look like it was ripped into previously.
I finally had enough, and made an appointment with the dealer service shop, since they were the only one in town (that I know of) with the specific diagnostic tools. Came back to me as one bad wheel sensor, as well as an open circuit in the motor itself. While they were performing diag they also cut open some of the wiring shielding to check on that and it was all corroded from the inside, of which there were no apparent trouble symptoms from the connector terminations themselves.
I’m going to try and repair/replace the wiring before proceeding further with the motor, hoping that is why the ohm checks on the motor and relays are coming out funky in the first place. I’ve already got the correct wheel sensor on order from rockauto. So my question at this point is where is a good place to find replacement harnesses/wiring for dealer only parts that have already been discontinued, aside from the junkyard… where those parts might be just as bad?
Also, Eric I noticed on your ABS Codes page you were always looking for additions to the Honda codes that you currently have listed. From my service manuals I have the codes for 95-97 and 98-00 for the Avenger/Sebring/Eclipse/Talon models if you want them.
I would try and find a good clean factory harness somewhere.
Try your local salvage yards first.If they don’t have it.
They can search for you in a state that does not have salt and
harsh winters. 😉Glad you took the ‘diagnostic’ rout. It sounds like you have quite a mess on your hands. Keep us posted on how things work out after you repair the harness.
Thanks for the offer on the ABS codes. You can send them to me at biz@ericthecarguy.com and I’ll forward them onto the webmaster.
I am a member at http://www.neons.org forum and I find that quite a few of the people involved with the forum have extra parts that they keep as spares and often put them up for sale in the for sale section of the forum. They also have a wanted section where you can post a listing for parts you’re looking for. I would suggest you look for a forum that is specifically for owners of the vehicle you have and see if they have a for sale / wanted section there. Who knows with junk yards how long things have been sitting exposed to the weather. Most of the people selling at the Neon forum have it stored inside out of the weather and are just trying to sell it to make room. Probably will find better used parts that way. I’ve picked up some nice used parts from there for my Neons. Usually as cheap or cheaper than the junk yard even after shipping and you don’t have to travel or do any of the removal work, just install it when it arrives. Just a thought. Best of luck.
John
Better late than never for an update. The issue ended up being the wiring. I was able to replace that then used my code scanner and found out that one of my wheel sensors had gone bad. Popped a new one in and the ABS light has been off for good for three months now.
Just wanted to thank Eric and everyone for their assistance.
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