A few Questions about a 1993 Honda Accord

[Damien Hill]

I have a 1993 Honda Accord Station Wagon with an F22a engine..
I have a few things I am trying to sort out.

Firstly I had an issue with my Crankshaft pulley with the bolt breaking loose resulting in the Crankshaft pulley running really loose and damaging to keyway on the pulley.
I ended up having to replace the Crankshaft pulley, Bolt and key which held it on, and thankfully the engine side was ok apart from me having to re-tap the thread.
My problem however is I purchased new drive belts for the new pulley as the old one had destroyed the old belts. Now I have the new belts installed the belts squeal and they are all tight and I cant work out why.. Would this have anything to do with the material on the new belts? they are the Brand Gates. Should I try some Honda Genuine ones?

Next issue I have is rough idle… The car was in a nose to tail accident when I brought it, and I repaired the whole front and you would never know the difference. However the impact of the crash may have damaged the engine mounts as when the engine is half warmed up or is just idling it can be quite rough, and felt through the steering wheel while stopped as the steering wheel shakes a bit. If this isn’t the issue could it be needing fuel injector cleaning and new fuel filters or is this a vaccum issue?

Lastly I am replacing the passengers side CV boot (Note this is a right hand drive car) and I was wondering if I could have some tips for this? I know how to pull out the axle and everything, but I was wondering if there was a way to chance the outer CV boot without removing the whole axle from the transmission. Can I just remove the CV Joint at the end and slide the boot off then reinstall the new one in reverse? or do I have to remove the whole axle…

Thanks

Topic

[skim3544]

Quoted From D.Hill:

I have a 1993 Honda Accord Station Wagon with an F22a engine..
I have a few things I am trying to sort out.

Firstly I had an issue with my Crankshaft pulley with the bolt breaking loose resulting in the Crankshaft pulley running really loose and damaging to keyway on the pulley.
I ended up having to replace the Crankshaft pulley, Bolt and key which held it on, and thankfully the engine side was ok apart from me having to re-tap the thread.
My problem however is I purchased new drive belts for the new pulley as the old one had destroyed the old belts. Now I have the new belts installed the belts squeal and they are all tight and I cant work out why.. Would this have anything to do with the material on the new belts? they are the Brand Gates. Should I try some Honda Genuine ones?

I run into this problem several weeks ago – This appears to be a common problem – I just torqued the bolt down over the factory torque spec.

The belt issue sounds like you just need adjust to make the belt tighter. Honda does not make this belt – they use belt from Bando

[cb7ftw]

With the parking brake off, and the car in gear (engine off). Open, the hood, and “rock” the car front and back, and watch the engine. Often you can hear an engine mount that sounds like a belt. Also, you might be able to see which mount is bad, because it is letting the engine move around to much.

[EricTheCarGuy]

As to your first question you might check the pulleys as you may have a bad bearing in one. Remove the belts one at a time and run the engine, if the noise goes away after you remove a particular belt look at all the things that belt drives for the noise, it may not be the belt at all.

As for the idle problem here is the ‘idle speech’
By suggestion I’m going to post my idle speech along with a couple of video links that I hope will help if your having problems with your Honda’s idle. First I’ll give you the link to the Solving Honda Idle Problems video, please remember that adjusting the FITV is the LAST step in the process and you need to back it off at least 1/2 turn after it bottoms out or it will not start properly when cold.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblYThe Bleeding a Cooling System Videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUp … =relmfuThe video response to the Honda Idle videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMj … onseLastly here is the “Idle Speech”There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of a 4 cylinder engine however here are some things to start with.First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.I hope this info is helpful as I get a TON of questions about Honda idle problems, thanks for reading.

As for the CV boot these videos should help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jydxpsh13WQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoW … ure=relmfu

[Author]

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