- This topic has 6 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 7 months ago by
.
- Topic
Hello,
I have 97 Acura CL 3.0. What happened was while my daughter was driving, she rearended a KIA a year ago. I had to replace a suction hose a few days ago and I replaced the dryer/receiver as Eric suggested. I then, evacuated the system. When I turned the pump off (35 min after) and immediately saw LP needle moved from -30 to 0 mm Hg. There must be a leak. So, I put the UV dye and re-charged w/ approx 20 oz of 134a using LP valve. What I saw was frost on the LP suction hose and it slowly disappeared. Yes, compressor kicks in as soon as I turn A/C switch on along w/ aux fans. Compressor and aux fans continuously run, but, NEVER blows the cold air! I checked for any leaks, I did not see anywhere under the hood. What would be the culprit? Evaporator?, Expansion Valve?, or Compressor even though clutch engages? Funny thing is the LP needle points, “0” when I turn the A/C switch on, and goes up to 30 when I turn A/C switch off. Can someone help me?
- Replies
You may have a damaged condenser from when the accident happened. Check the condenser for damage and the refrigerant lines to make sure they aren’t crimped or kinked.
Hi cap269,
I thank you very much for your reply. Recharge took its place on Saturday and I just left if overnight. Next day, on Sunday, I turned the a/c on and “Voilla”! A/C began to work! I’ve decided to re-charge in first place since visual inspection revealed no physical damage noted on the condenser. A/C compresser now kicks in and stops automatically. The issues I’m having is 1. low pressure needle moved all the way (over 120 mm Hg and stopped at a little pin inside the meter, 2. high pressure needle was pointing 200 mm Hg (is this a problem?), and 3. may not be as cold as what used to be (I need to get a thermometer). Question – Is it okay to leave low pressure coupling connected? Or, if I leave it connected, will it damage the gauge? Will low pressure eventually drop? Also, I could not release high pressure coupling. But, I had to use a plier to release the high pressure coupling. Is this normal? There was no leak at least under the hood detected. I’m wondering if O’Reilly rents out the electronic leak detector which detects 134a leak at the vent. I’ve re-charged w/ 13 oz 134a + leak stopper + oil and 12 oz 134a (max capacity is 26 oz) . I also have a question on this #. Chart indicates max oil capacity 5.5 oz and 134a 26 oz. Does this mean the system’s max capacity is 31.5 oz of both oil and 134a combined? Or, 26 oz max, of which oil cannot exceed 5.5 oz (which means 134a must be on or below 20.5 oz).The description of the behavior of your pressure gauges still indicates to me a restriction in the condenser. If it were me, I would replace it first and then evacuate and recharge.
Also, millimeters of mercury (mmHg) is usually used to indicate vacuum (and barometric) pressure. Pounds per square inch (psi) is used for refrigerant pressure because it is so much greater than vacuum pressure (~50 mmHg = 1 psi). 120mmHg would literally be just ~2.5 psi, which is very, very low.
cap269,
Alright, I’ll replace condenser.
Let me talk to my mechanic for evacuation of 134a I just put in.
I’ll keep you posted.
Thank you very much for your reply and clarifying how pressure units should be differentiated.You’re welcome 🙂 Also, I didn’t answer the other question you had in my previous reply.
As for capacity, your system specifications are for two liquids. Compressor oil and refrigerant, not the combined volume of them. The system is supposed to hold 5.5 ounces of oil AND 26 ounces of refrigerant. That does not mean a ‘combined’ volume of 31.5 ounces. It means to literally add the prescribed quantity of each thing. Note that evacuating the refrigerant from the system does not remove the oil from the compressor. For example, 31.5 ounces of refrigerant in a can does not contain 5.5 ounces of oil. The amount of oil in the can of refrigerant is very small, usually a fraction of an ounce, hardly measurable. I would also not use the refrigerant cans that contain oil, leak stop, etc. The leak stop can cause problems by plugging tiny passages in the condenser and gumming up the orifice tubes or expansion valves. Just use the refrigerant-only cans with no additives, although using at least one can of refrigerant containing the leak detection dye can be useful if you develop a leak in the future, but no other additives should be put in there.
Got it!
I had many, many problems using automatic transmission leak stopper. Per transmission guy, this thing destroyed all seals, plastic/vinyl part of cables, or, anything/everything made out of rubber, plastic/vinyl inside my 2004 Nissan Quest transmission.Again, thank you very much for your reply.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.