- This topic has 7 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 5 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hey guys,
So this truck has a lot of problems with it and I am going to be doing a lot of work on it. So I figured I would make a separate topic.
So here is what I am not sure of thus far.
It seems like the front calipers are not retracting right away. I had the wheel up in the air and told a buddy of mine to step on the brake pedal, when he let off of it, the wheel was hard to turn for a second or two, and then freed up. Also, I drove the car for around 30 seconds, and went outside and felt the front rotors, they were BURNING hot! The rear rotors were not hot. ALSO, the car does not move forward when in drive or reverse and not touching the gas pedal. (It is an automatic.) This leads me to believe the calipers are indeed sticking. Would you guys say this is sufficient evidence to condemn the calipers? I suppose it could be the brake hoses…
Second:
-
Replies
-
Hi mate,
Sounds like a classic stuck caliper problem at first. Try taking off the shoes and compressing each caliper manually a few times, with a manual press or something. Then have someone pump it back out. Repeat that two to three times. Also check the rubber seals for leaks or breaks and the surface underneath the seals for rust or metal bits or scratches.
Compressing the caliper without detaching the hose and opening the vent cap may perhaps cause some strain on the master cylinder, so do not overdo it. You need to do it that way, otherwise your buddy won’t be able to pump the pressure back into them.
You would use a tool like this:
Break hoses are a long shot (albeit not impossible.) Before you condemn the caliper there are a few things to check.
-With the wheel on, and the vehicle’s weight on the wheel, see if the brake hose is kinking.
-lift the vehicle, pull the wheel
-There is a window on the caliper which allows you to see the side of the brake pads. Put the end of a large screw driver in that window and pry against the rotor to return the caliper piston.
-Remove the caliper and caliper bracket.
-inspect caliper slides (pins) for rust, bends, or maring
-inspect bracket for any warping or bends
-inspect surfaces where caliper and bracket slide across each other for rust. If rust is present, remove rust and make sure surfaces are smooth and coat with “antiseize”.
-If caliper did not return using the screwdriver, use a “C” clamp to return piston. Do not use “channel locks” or any kind of plyers, they will create uneven pressure on the piston face when returning the caliper piston which could result in caliper piston warping or cracking.
-If caliper piston still does not return, open the bleeder or loosen the brake hose and try returning the caliper piston.
-If the piston still does not return then the caliper must be replaced.
-If the piston returns after opening the bleeder or loosening the brake hose then there may be a problem with another part of the hydraulic system[quote=”thisisbuod” post=66393]Break hoses are a long shot (albeit not impossible.) Before you condemn the caliper there are a few things to check.
-With the wheel on, and the vehicle’s weight on the wheel, see if the brake hose is kinking.
-lift the vehicle, pull the wheel
-There is a window on the caliper which allows you to see the side of the brake pads. Put the end of a large screw driver in that window and pry against the rotor to return the caliper piston.
-Remove the caliper and caliper bracket.
-inspect caliper slides (pins) for rust, bends, or maring
-inspect bracket for any warping or bends
-inspect surfaces where caliper and bracket slide across each other for rust. If rust is present, remove rust and make sure surfaces are smooth and coat with “antiseize”.
-If caliper did not return using the screwdriver, use a “C” clamp to return piston. Do not use “channel locks” or any kind of plyers, they will create uneven pressure on the piston face when returning the caliper piston which could result in caliper piston warping or cracking.
-If caliper piston still does not return, open the bleeder or loosen the brake hose and try returning the caliper piston.
-If the piston still does not return then the caliper must be replaced.
-If the piston returns after opening the bleeder or loosening the brake hose then there may be a problem with another part of the hydraulic system[/quote]Thank you for the detailed reply. I just did a brake job on this car and got a chance to really inspect everything. The slide pins were a little rusty, but I greased them up with caliper grease and checked to see if they slide easily. Other than that, I didn’t see any noticeable problems. Brake hose isn’t kinked in any way, and the rust isn’t out of hand.
What is making it difficult is that it seems the caliper returns slowly. It isn’t obviously stuck. Meaning, when the brake pedal is depressed and then let go, the wheel is hard to turn, even though the pedal isn’t depressed. But after I get it going, the caliper seems to ease up and allow me to turn the wheel easily.
[quote=”Xyius” post=66404
Thank you for the detailed reply. I just did a brake job on this car and got a chance to really inspect everything. The slide pins were a little rusty, but I greased them up with caliper grease and checked to see if they slide easily. Other than that, I didn’t see any noticeable problems. Brake hose isn’t kinked in any way, and the rust isn’t out of hand.
What is making it difficult is that it seems the caliper returns slowly. It isn’t obviously stuck. Meaning, when the brake pedal is depressed and then let go, the wheel is hard to turn, even though the pedal isn’t depressed. But after I get it going, the caliper seems to ease up and allow me to turn the wheel easily.[/quote]
OK, since the caliper pins slide easily, and the hoses aren’t kinked, try the pry with a screwdriver method the thisisbuod mentioned. I think you’ll find the caliper piston isn’t returning well. If that’s true, it’s time for new calipers.
I would get new brake hoses, It sounds like the inside of the hose has collapsed and is acting like a one way valve. This means that the fluid is going to the caliper but is slow to return.
Are you having issues with both sides or just one? If it’s both sides;
-Check your master cylinder cap. There should be little vent holes. Make sure those are clear and any “flapper” valves are in working order.
-Try gettin your hands on a brake test strip. If you can’t do that, then note the color of the fluid. The condition of the brakes fluid can be an indicator of how deteriorated the inside of the hydraulic system is.
-Look for any kinked metal brake lines.If it is just one caliper you are having problems with, then (like kkozlowski said) it is most likely the caliper.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.