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http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/A99-085.pdf
This is a tsb article for all Hondas for that year span. It explains the fix. It might help you.
I believe you have to clean the manifold passages also. Heres a video that shows just that.C8-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8N-SE04 … plpp_video p0401 cleaning egr passages
Quoted From Six6vetteguy:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/A99-085.pdf
This is a tsb article for all Hondas for that year span. It explains the fix. It might help you.
The link provided as stated is a good one to recheck your work. The other link provided only applies to 94-97 Accords with a 4 cylinder engine.
Eric has a good video for the 1998-2002 V6 Honda/Acura. See this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRp6RWZ1egM
Just a dumb question, but did you disconnect the negative battery cable after doing what you had described in order to clear the code ? Be sure you have the radio code handy if it is still the original radio.
Also make sure all electrical and hoses are attached properly. Let us know if this helps.Quoted From fitone:
The link provided as stated is a good one to recheck your work. The other link provided only applies to 94-97 Accords with a 4 cylinder engine.
Eric has a good video for the 1998-2002 V6 Honda/Acura. See this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRp6RWZ1egM
Just a dumb question, but did you disconnect the negative battery cable after doing what you had described in order to clear the code ? Be sure you have the radio code handy if it is still the original radio.
Also make sure all electrical and hoses are attached properly. Let us know if this helps.Thanks for the feedback. I did watch the video and performed the service via the TSB. I cleared the code with my OBDII reader. I’ve done rebuilds and engine swaps so it wasn’t a difficult task. Everything is hooked up correctly, I cleaned and soaked the intake thoroughly. Just doesn’t make sense.
That engine really doesn’t have ‘passages’ but rather a ‘passage’ in the intake, it’s just the single passage that feeds the intake. If that was cleaned and you still have the code then you might go back and check the seal at the intake gasket because if there is a leak there it can cause that code to set. I rarely see the EGR itself causing that code but I believe you’ve already replaced that so I think you can rule that out.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
That engine really doesn’t have ‘passages’ but rather a ‘passage’ in the intake, it’s just the single passage that feeds the intake. If that was cleaned and you still have the code then you might go back and check the seal at the intake gasket because if there is a leak there it can cause that code to set. I rarely see the EGR itself causing that code but I believe you’ve already replaced that so I think you can rule that out.
Thanks Eric. The intake gasket seemed completely fine, but I’m gonna tear it down and take another look. I know the intake was clear & clean. I’ll report back.
Here’s a video on checking for vacuum leaks:
Keep me posted on what you find with the gasket, I’m curious about the cause on this one, it’s not common for the ‘cleaning’ not to work especially if you also replaced the valve.
Hello, I just want to share what I had to do to pass a smog check on second try. I have 97 Acura CL 3.0 w/ 250K+ miles. I got P0401 code. I saw Eric’s video and cleaned intake (although I ordered the repair kit, but, I did not insert the “Sleeve”.), passage between intake and EGR valve, and, replaced an EGR. On the first cleaning, I just cleaned the intake, the passage, and replaced the EGR. Erased the CE light. First smog check failed. I was told that I need to drive 100 miles or so to have ECM resets itself. All the reading are fine. Then, as I was driving this Acura, CE light lit up again. I saw someone else’s video and what he was saying was when I spray the cleaner thru the intake (where I should insert the “Sleeve”), the cleaning solution should not back up, but, should go in smoothly. Since the solution did not go in smoothly, I suspected there may be “Gunk” inside the intake where I cannot see. So, what I did was I removed IAC sensor and inserted a foot-long skinny screw driver and I “Poked” here and there. I was amazed when I saw how much “Gunk” came out! I put everything back together (still w/o the “Sleeve) and I’m getting ready for the second smog check. But, not yet, I still have to driver 100 miles since I erased CE light for the second time. I’ll keep you posted see if I were able to pass smog w/o the “Sleeve”.
I have a question. Is it okay to spray into the round hole (on the engine block, not on the EGR valve) where EGR valve sits? Where does the cleaning solution go? I hope the hole does not lead the cleaning solution to the cylinder chamber or the oil pan.
Yap! I passed the smog without the “Sleeve” from EGR repair kit. So, be aware, cleaning of the intake passage w/ drill bit (like Eric was doing on video) may not be enough. What you should do are, 1. make sure there is no splash when you spray the cleaner. 2. remove the IAT sensor, 3. use a foot-long skinny screw driver from the IAT sensor hole, and “Poke” at it, 4. re-spray the cleaner and wash all “Gunk” out of the intake. I replaced the EGR valve since I already bought it. But, I may not have to replace it if I completed all these 4 steps on a first try. On the first smog check, “Failed” appeared on Functional Check and OBD System Check while everything else was, “Passed”.
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