- This topic has 21 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 11 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Have a 99 towncar. Drove all day.. parked and shut off for 2 mins.. went to start itmm no start no crank.. all lights and electric work… so I can rule out the battery?? I got under and beat on the starter.. no difference at all.. please help.. would the started completly fail with NO warnings signs?? What should I do
-
Replies
-
When i turn the key.. all lights cut off…. then come back on when put back into regular position.. and if it was the neutral safety switch.. the car would still start but only in neutral correct?? i tried that as well.. I believe i do hear the click at the relay.. but the started doesnt click or nothing when trying to start it
Have someone turn the key and feel the relay for a click.
Remove the relay and jump the contacts to see if the starter
engages.if so either the relay is not engaging control issue
or the relay has a problem. Try swapping a relay next to it.[quote=”2StrongMNG” post=80429]When i turn the key.. all lights cut off…. then come back on when put back into regular position.. and if it was the neutral safety switch.. the car would still start but only in neutral correct?? i tried that as well.. I believe i do hear the click at the relay.. but the started doesnt click or nothing when trying to start it[/quote]
By all lights, you mean everything electrical dies when you turn it to the “start”? I would concentrate on checking the ignition switch (electrical part) and checking all the main battery cables.
Here is the instructions on how to get to the switch.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/048c78jfcfpx9ky/Town%20car%20ignition%20switch.pdfNow those switches are notorious for spitting along the seam and losing connection when the key is turned to start causing everything to go dead, the spring pressure is what usually does that.
Here is a pin out guide for the connector showing what wires should be hot in the different positions.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sk4iwrooggyovtp/Town%20car%20ignition%20connector%20view.pdf
This video shows the older style which was much worse, but the newer style up into the 2000s suffered from the same problems, just not as much.
I have the same thing on my mustang. Make sure the clamps on the battery terminals can not be turned by hand and follow the wires to make sure they’re tight and not corroded in other places.
I can start the mustang just fine, drive it, park it and nothing but dash lights. I turn the key, and the dash lights dim, but no response from the motor. I pop the hood, turn the negative battery clamp half a revolution, and the try again. The engine starts right up. The clamp is tight via the nut on it, but I can still turn it by hand on the battery post. I’m not mechanic, but I’d guess it takes more current to start the engine than it is to run it.
Give it a try, let us know if that does it.
[quote=”juels98″ post=80471] but I’d guess it takes more current to start the engine than it is to run it.
[/quote]
MUCH more, not only does the battery have to spin a cold engine, but at the same time power the fuel pump, PCM and other control modules on the bus. A cranking engine can easily draw in excess of 200 amps and any loose or bad connection will cause a tremendous voltage drop and stop the process.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.