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You need to be checking fuel pressure with KOEO and comparng those specs to OEM readings.
It would be interesting to see scan tool live data to see what temperature the PCM ‘thinks’ the coolant temperature is as well as STFT and LTFT’s.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
You need to be checking fuel pressure with KOEO and comparng those specs to OEM readings.
It would be interesting to see scan tool live data to see what temperature the PCM ‘thinks’ the coolant temperature is as well as STFT and LTFT’s.
Haha, you took the words right out of my mouth.
Did you try to press the accellerator to the floor when cranking over the car in the mornings to cut the fuel supply to the car mite help if only temporaly….
This has been an ongoing problem for the last month so I’ve tried quite a few things. I’ve tried with no pedal, pedal floored and just about everywhere in between. To start it with the ECT unplugged I have to put the pedal to the floor which doesn’t make much sense to me
Well i wudnt know much about that now but i seem to be having the same issues aswell with my ECT once it gets cold it runs real rough i know its a 1996
corolla not a honda. If you check out my thread on Corolla 4afe bad start.
Ok well I definitely don’t have a scan tool and how do I hook a fuel pressure gauge up to the fuel rail? Theres no port on there to tap into so do I need a special adaptor and if so where do I tap in?
Yes you do need a special adapter to hook into that system and you would hook in near the fuel filter normally but given that it runs fine while it’s warmed up might indicate that fuel pressure is not the issue. I can’t stress enough how important it is to use quality parts on Honda’s, most off the shelf stuff at the auto parts store doesn’t cut it but I’m reluctant to condemn new parts even if they aren’t of the best quality. Given that the issue seems to be temperature related it would be great to know what the computer sees as the temperature, even though you replaced the sensor there still could be an issue in the wiring somewhere that could cause the problem. If memory serves the temperature sensor connector is very similar to another connector in the area and if you get the 2 connectors switched the vehicle will run poorly and not start, the way to identify the correct connector is to look at it’s color, one is green and the other white, the connector should go to the component of the same color. If you find that your connectors are in the correct location the next step is to look at the temperature readings on a scan tool before you start the engine, if they read something other than ambient temperature then it’s likely to be an issue in the wiring or the sensor.
All the logic in the world points at the ECT but I’ve swapped it out twice already(because I cracked the adaptor housing on the first one). This morning I decided to try turning the key on several times before starting to see if the problem is due to low fuel pressure. The sound of the fuel pump was different each time I did it and I almost got it to start after priming 5 or 6 times. Repeated with no luck. I unplugged the ECT and it really wanted to fire but just couldn’t quite do it as opposed to plugged in where it turns over like the fuel pump is disconnected. So like most other mornings I found myself rolling it down the driveway to bump starting it.
Cooling system has been bled
This may be a long shot but could there be a hairline crack in one of the sensors or connectors and the cold temps cause it shrink just enough to not send correct signal. I ask this because even though I can bump start my car it runs rough as hell until it warms up. The idle bounces around and is extremely sluggish when you accelerate.
Sounds like this is problem with ECU, Coolant temperature, or fuel injection problem. I had similar problem with Nissan Maxima – I suspected coolant temperature sensor at first but couple of weeks later the car would not even crank with good battery. The problem turned out to be starter.
Have you checked to see if you had the correct connectors hooked up? Don’t assume the TW sensor is bad, if you really want to know see if you can get your hands on the service manual so that you can check it’s resistance to temperature chart to see if it’s in spec, if it’ is it’s not bad. Also if you got your hands on a scanner that would read live data you could also look and see what the computer sees for coolant temp thus verifying the wiring AND the sensor. You might have a mixture problem but it also may have nothing to do with the sensor, Honda’s are pretty good about setting codes if a sensor goes bad.
Checked fuel pressure…fine, spark…fine, all readings on scanner were within range so I backed it up. Tested compression and it read about 20 per cyl. Took off valve cover and sure enough my valves were incredibly tight that I couldn’t get a feeler guage under any of them. Adjusted to spec and sure enough the car fired up and idled perfectly.
Were the valves previously adjusted before you started having this no-start-cold condition? I would think it odd that the valves would get “tight” (instead of loose)over normal wear and use Keep us posted.
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