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1999 GMC Sierra 5.3 Extended Cab RWD. A long time ago I talked with Eric about this. Okay, I’ve been dealing with this problem ever since I got the truck in 2010 mostly because money is tight and I don’t want to throw parts at it. The main problem is on some freeway surfaces, I get an intense vibration/shaking between 60 and 70 miles per hour. It will usually stop after 70, but it can still be felt slightly. The shaking can be felt through the entire vehicle and the steering wheel. It feels like someone is grabbing you and shaking you 4 or 5 times per second. I haven’t gone through everything in the service manual, but I will tell you what’s been done.
I’m on my 2nd set of tires. Original tires did this – had them rebalanced several times. I bought a new set of BFGs – basically the same thing – balanced several times. I got the tire shop to replace the BFGs with Michelins (The most expensive tire for this truck) – same thing. Balancing doesn’t effect it very much.
I’ve taken the truck up to 75 MPH and then put the truck into neutral. Coasting down through the problem range – problem is still present.
The shocks are Bilstein heavy duty – perhaps a little too stiff, but all the shocks did was make the shaking/vibrating more noticeable. Ride can be a little rough though.
I’ve had two alignments within the past year. A GM mechanic I spoke with blames the alignment – this doesn’t make sense to me.
I’ve retorqued the ball joint nuts, lower control arm bolts, power steering rack bolts, tie rod ends, sway bar end links.
Ball joints do not appear to have any play when a giant pry bar is placed underneath the supported tire.
Truck has a two piece drive shaft. There doesn’t seem to be any play in the center bearing or the u-joints.
Some things I’ve also noticed: if I have an extra four or five hundred pounds in the truck (cab or bed) the vibration is greatly reduced or is eliminated. I do not think I am suffering from the infamous “frame beaming.” This shaking is much too intense.
I haven’t had a change to get under the truck to measure the suspension per the service manual but I found this interesting.Measuring from the top of the tires diagonally to the fender I get different measurements (my 1990 regular cab is basically the same side to side).
Front left: 5 and 1/16 inches
Front right: 4 and 3/4 inches
Rear left: 6 and 1/4
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Transmission maybe???
Well, my 4L60E died today. Happy Monday. I was accelerating onto the freeway I lost a little traction and I was at 5k briefly, I let off the gas immediately. Transmission started acting strange. It almost felt like the engine was missing. I wasn’t sure if I was going to make it home. I got home and I checked the fluid and it was really high, with some bubbles on the dipstick – okay, I didn’t remember overfilling it – whatever, I’ll drain some. I took out 2 quarts to get it back to normal (This didn’t seem right). I tried to move the truck and I don’t get any gears. So maybe the pump died (would explain high fluid level). I put a quart back in and the truck will only move if you give it lots of gas and it still wants to die.
I might have to take it to a shop, I’ve been working so much I don’t have time to drop the trans.
Ugh….. im so sorry to hear that about the transmission after all that work you have put into trying to resolve that issue S:(
Are you going to have a reputable shop rebuild your current transmission or are you going to try a salvage unit?
Well, there are some places I have in mind that I need to call to get some prices. One place I’ve been to before and they rebuilt a manual trans for my girlfriend’s father – shifts smooth as butter.
Unless I find a used one for a smokin good deal, I will probably rebuild as 4L60Es aren’t exactly known for being robust – I could end up with another turd. I’m also inclined to have a place put in upgraded internals.
I kind of don’t have the money to shell out on a transmission, but I have no choice now.
Well, seems like the local places want $1500-$2200 installed depending on what’s trash and what’s not, and if the converter is toast, etc.
Man, another reason why I like manuals – One of the same shops I went to in the past charged me $700 for a complete rebuild on an Accord manual transmission.
I’m leaning towards the shop I’ve been to before, they have a 2yr warranty and say they upgrade the sun shell, servo, bands, etc that other places do for a performance rebuild. Doing it myself only saves $200 in labor – not worth it with my limited amount of time I have right now.
Well if that isn’t a bite in a private area. I still don’t like the ‘metal shavings’ you found in the diff but it seems you have bigger problems. As always keep us up to date.
Well I found out about a local guy on another forum I’m on. He’s a GM Master Technician (actually the guy who does all the trans work) and he does side jobs at his house. Him and his brother rebuilt the whole trans, with all the upgrades – shift kit, Corvette servo, beast sun shell, upgraded bands, clutches etc, installed for less than a grand. So far I’m pretty happy with the truck, just giving it some time to break in.
The guy said my problem with the shaking is due to length of my truck (extended cab) and the freeway expansion joint/ road surface creating a resonance when I hit certain speeds. Which is why if the freeway is asphalt I have zero problems. He said it might help if I had softer rear shocks/ leaf springs, but the only true fix would be a 4 link suspension. I might try some softer shocks, maybe some OEMs instead of the bilsteins.
Either way I’m happy with the transmission and glad I found a GM guy.
Wow first time I’ve heard that explanation especially since a longer wheel base would normally equate to a smoother ride. Very strange indeed. Thanks for keeping us up to date.
I’m with you Eric, I can see how a certain length or design could develop a resonance – sort of like a tuning fork, but my situation seems a little extreme for that to be plausible explanation. I’ve read a lot about GM “frame beaming” which is supposedly these truck frames can develop a resonance between 50-60 MPH, but it doesn’t sound anywhere near what I’m experiencing.
By process of elimination, the only link in the chain left is the rear end. So, I think I will keep that in mind until I can diagnose it.
It is strange how on asphalt I don’t get the shaking/vibration, but on concrete I do. I think that might have to do with the asphalt absorbing whatever vibration is happening, versus the much harder concrete “throwing” it back at the truck.
I will keep this thread updated until I’m satisfied. Thanks again guys.
Do that because this is great information for any who might have the same issue. Good luck and keep us up to date.
95riceeater said:
Was this issue ever resolved I am having the exact same issue…
Talk about bringing a thread back from the dead.
You might want to try looking at your parking brake assembly. In Ford trucks, the parking brake can get misadjusted and cause a horrible shaking at highway speeds from it dragging and creating bad harmonic frequencies through the truck. You might have the same issue even though it’s a GM product — the physics are the same. It’s an easy place to start since this problem seems to never have been solved.
Thanks for the reply! So where exactly should I check? That is a very good idea btw I would of never thought about checking that but I’ve done everything else that was mentioned on this thread and the problem is still there. It’s an 06 single cab btw lowered 3″ in the back with shackles and hangars. My next move was to replace them with the stock components and a flip kit to see if that helped level both sides out since it’s about an inch and a half taller on the passenger side.
Having the same issue right now! Haha! I am gonna try out things suggested here. I will post updates! 🙂
Same exact problem on my 03 GMC sierra 1500 2WD with 110,000 on it. I have changed my rear struts one was leaking, just did my U-joints today, trans mount and changed out sway bar links and bushings. I got brand new tire 10,000 miles ago and changed my rear diff fluid . I have had my truck up on a lift a few times and have inspected everything on it, I have no play in my front end but my upper driver and lower passenger boots are ripped. What i have noticed is that it does it when everything is heated up in my truck, I did the neutral test and the vibration is still there I really don’t think it will every go away.
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