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A costumer brought in a 99 Ford ranger 2.5 OHC thinking he needed a valve job, due to the fact he had broken his timing belt and had it replaced at another shop but and is running badly. I checked my timing belt book and found that this engine is a non-interference engine. Just to be sure I compression tested the engine an did a cylinder leak test, and found no evidence of a bad valve.So my next thought is the guy got the belt on wrong but I checked and triple checked all marks line up perfectly. The costumer assures me it was running well right up till the belt broke. When driving the truck it feels like a plugged exhaust. It idles perfectly but wont accelerate past 2500-3000 rpms then just fall flat regardless of how much throttle you add. I unhooked the exhaust right at the manifold and it still performed exactly the same. The fuel filter is not plugged and the fuel press gauge shows excellent press even when driving and recreating the condition. The only code stored is a p0300 random missfire. Tried an old cam and crank sensor i had form a previous engine swap. But nothing i tried works. My gut says it must be something that happened when the belt was changed but i cant find anything obvious. Any help would be greatly appreciated this thing has been beating me up for days.
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when the marks are checked.are you at tdc?
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/apjp02/2010-03-01_154637_timing_belt_2.5.pdf
Yes it is on TDC although i have not removed the timing cover i used the marks on the harmie and used the sight plugs in the cover to see the marks.
Did the cylinder balance test and found all cylinders are contributing the same. Still convinced its something due to the t belt replacement. i think im gonna pull the harmmie and the cover to look in there.
I ran into something like this with an older Ranger. It turned out it had an aftermarket racing cam sprocket.(set incorrectly) It had multiple internal keyways that allowed you to alter the valve timing. The valve timing is correct when the crank is at tdc and the cam makes a “v” pointing up on cly 1. You put a straight edge across the v and measure down to the valve cover mating surface. You want the measurements about equal.
The one I was working on was pre obdII, but maybe this will help you verify correct valve timing.Success! After removing the harmonic balancer and cover I found 2 teeth broken off the reluctor ring that the Crank sensor senses. I’m really surprised it ran as well as it did. Had an old one in my scrap pile from an engine swap. Runs like a champ now. Now the hard part. I can’t possibly charge this guy all the time I have in it. The gorilla who changed the T-Belt should pay the bill.
Thanks to all who responded.
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