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99 Civic LX sputters at low RPM’s when warm.

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  • #596752
    EricEric
    Participant

      D16Y7 5-speed, misfires with power loss. Throws CEL with codes 71-74 (misfires).

      Just bought the car with 120k miles on it. Can’t seem to get any info out of the previous owner.
      When cold, the car seems to function normally. Then after about 5 minutes, it will stumble and misfire in low (below 3000) RPMs. In higher RPM’s the problem seems to go away. After a long drive the car becomes almost undriveable. I have to rev the engine to about 3k and feather the clutch to get the car moving. This seems to be a common problem but I have yet to see the common solution.

      Compression test:
      #1 – 175
      #2 – 172
      #3 – 185
      #4 – 187

      Spark plugs:
      Electrodes are more white then I would like them to be. (See pic)

      California smog test passed, but just barely.
      The smog guy said that the ignition timing was too advanced. He adjusted it to the TDC mark using a variable degree timing light set for 14 deg. BTDC. I asked him if I could take a look with his timing light. I set the light to 0 deg and noticed that the engine was slightly out of range based on the timing marks on the flywheel. I didn’t want to argue with him since he was just about to pass my car through the emissions test. Anyway, changing the timing didn’t seem to affect the problem. One thing I noticed is that the distributor was initially set to the factory alignment mark. After he set the timing the mark was misaligned by about 4 mm which seemed like a lot to me. (see pic)

      Mechanical timing:
      With the pulley TDC mark precisely aligned to the pointers on the belt cover, the cam pulley marks align perfectly with the aluminum surface of the head, NOT WITH THE ARROWS ON THE PLASTIC. However, it seems that if I adjust the timing by a tooth, it will be even more off than it is now. (See pics)

      On the web, many suggest that the mechanical timing might be off by a tooth and so I’m hoping that this might be the problem. But, I can’t tell if this is out or not. Help please.

    Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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    • #596780
      EricEric
      Participant

        So, when I line up the cam gear marks with their corresponding arrows, the pully marks look like so:

        Attachments:
        #596795
        EricEric
        Participant

          Okay, so I’ve just learned that non-vtec motors such as my D16y7 are to ignore these arrows in the plastic and align the cam gear timing marks to the valve cover surface of the head. In other words–my mechanical timing is fine. WTF is the problem, then? Anyone fixed this problem before?

          #596826
          WayneWayne
          Participant

            im having exactly the same problem.

            checked many stuffs and all of them are fine.

            any worn on the distributor cap and rotor?

            #596912
            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
            Keymaster

              Timing belts are designed to be ‘hunting’. What that means is that they design them so that the same tooth on the belt does not line up with the same tooth on a gear every revolution. If it did, bad things would happen. As a result of this engineering, timing marks rarely line up perfectly. That said, line up the crank, check the cam, if it’s only half a tooth off or so, you’re fine. If it’s more than that, then it will need to be reset. From what I saw, it looks fine.

              As for the performance issue, the information here might help.

              http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

              #596935
              EricEric
              Participant

                Changing the plugs and air filter (that filter was so DERTAY), has alleviated 98% of the problem. The car runs MUCH better now. Doesn’t stumble but still has the occasional misfire. My cap and rotor look pretty good but I’m still going to replace it along with all the usual stuff.

                #597104
                EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                Keymaster

                  You might also set the timing properly. I noticed it looked moved in the picture you posted. That can also have an effect on base idle. In addition if someone adjusted the idle screw (which should never be done) you might want to reset that as well. The procedure, along with more info on that here.

                  http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems

                  As for setting the timing.

                  #599185
                  EricEric
                  Participant

                    I am happy to report that the car runs perfectly after changing cap & rotor, plug wires, PCV valve and fuel filter. I threw everything on at once and so I can’t tell you which one was the culprit. If I had to guess, I would say it was the PCV valve. Thanks or the help. Stay derty.

                  Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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