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I was re installing the radio console, had the shifter in neutral, battery disconnected. I left the car in Neutral, and the key has to be in the “start” position in order to be in neutral, I went out to reconnect the red post and there was kinda sparking noise and some small buzzing under the silver engine cover area. When I started the car the Brake, and Battery light were on.
I then drove the car for over hour making several stops, returned home 4 hours later. Turned off the car, went inside for 30 mins, I re-started the car again, I turned off the car then back on and Brake and Battery lights were still lit, but also one of the fog lamps all of a sudden burned out while starting car. The battery then immediately seemed to fail as the headlights and dash lights went dim. Then I couldnt restart the car due to no juice it seemed.
I took battery to have it recharged( scanner said battery good but recharge), hour later, reinstalled it, the car started but the Battery and Brake light were still lit. Autozone checked any for any codes, found none related to issued, then on way home (5min drive) the TCS lights came on! (I even pushed the TCS button several times to test to see if it would turn the light off.)
The day before I did replace all the brakes, btw, but the fluid level was fine when I test drove it, the Brake Light was not on, nor the Battery, nor TCS lights.
Did the Computer get fried? How to diagnose and what to try to solve issue anyone? Greatly appreciated!!
Update: Autozone checked the installed Alternator. It is bad now. Must have fried it somehow. If its not the problem I will follow up on here.
update #2 After removing from Junk yard and bench testing the replacement alt. Still same problem. I then went and had the original alternator bench tested….it tested OK! damn whole day wasted.
Update 3. Disconnected 4 pin alt connector, and with ign on (not started) there was voltage on pin(female) 3 and 4. With engine running and 4 pin disconnected the voltage between the Alt Nut(under rubber cap) and body ground was 11.65 volts.
Thoughts anyone? Is it the computer?
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I assume the alternator is not charging. you should have battery voltage on the heavy gauge power wire and the four pin connector you should have power on the white/green and black/yellow wires with the key on. the white/blue wire is used to illuminate the charging light in the dash and the white/red wire is some sort of signal from the PCM to control the alternator field. I would start with checking all of these and you could also just check the fuses Fuse 15 ACG 7.5A and fuse 20 ECU 20A in the under hood fuse box..
There were no fuses blown either under hood or inside. I bought a New alternator(bench tested good prior to install) and when on the vehicle its regulator is tested bad. 3rd alternator so far. Each one retested after removing from the vehicle and all test good. Buddy told me it might be the Body Control Module( Multiplex Control Unit), I pulled the passenger side one and ran the tests for voltage and Continuity according the Honda troubleshooting method, and there were several fails that indicated somewhere a grounding failure or an open wire. I have not tested the other 2 MCU’s because this is way above my ability for tracking down open wires and such. Dropped it off today at an alternator shop and he said he would track it down.
Hey on the 2 pin service connector can you jump it with a piece of wire? The manual says not to do that but rather uses some Honda Service Connector (which looks like a wire loop to me).
update us on the fix when you get it back.
As far as jumping the pins, I have a connector kit I use to do this on older vehicles where this method applies. I just find the pin that fits the pins on the vehicle and loop it all together and jump it. However a caution you should be 100% what pins you are jumping. Short answer is yesWell I should change the title to: Alternator test bad on vehicle but test good off vehicle, and brake and battery light remain on after Dash gauge light bulb change to LED bulbs.
SOLUTION WAS : one of the dash gauge connectors was NOT plugged in completely! The second one specifically. Even though all the lights worked and gauges worked still. Soooo weird. After reconnecting it the voltage tested at the battery, with car running, was 14.44v.What a brain puzzler!!! It is so weird that the alternators test ok off the vehicle but when tested in the car it was not putting out the correct voltage. And the only clue was brake light and battery light were on constantly.
I forgot to mention that this also turned off the Brake, and Battery lights indicators. So no more problem now. Yeahhhh!!!!
Nope not fixed yet. 🙁
Drove around today (no dashlight indicators lit except SRS). After parked for 4 hours, went to start it, wouldnt turn over. I retightened the battery posts, and it started. Drove a few miles, stopped for gas, turn it off, it wont turn on. dashlights almost completely dim. Got a new battery to limp home. Got home checked with voltmeter at the posts (while running) 14.6v, turned on high beams 14.75volts. Will test alt on the car tomorrow and go from there. wtf??Hey, how do I check to see if there is AC voltage going on from the alternator, at times instead of DC volts? and what figures should I be expecting as good and bad?
,Update: I guess that might not have been the complete solution. The next day the battery drained again. This time I noticed that the Lead battery post spacer, that was added to the Positive post so that the clamp could be tightened up after years of getting stretched looked like it was sparking and had melted holes and such. So It apparently was not making a solid connection. So I just bought a new battery and no problems now. Except the SRS light is still on, and I tried doing the SRS reset procedure and at the end I get 3 blinking lights instead of 2, and the SRS light still remains on. I tried jumping the OBD pins 9 and 4 to see if it blinked out a code, but no lights blinked anywhere on the dash. The SRS has been on since the Shop removed the dash Gauge and heater/radio consoles. Anyone have a clue about how to figure out the SRS light problem? Autozone scanner said that the drivers seatbuckle wasnt working properly, and ABS. Could this be the SRS code reason?
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