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Hey guys n gals.
I have a hairline split In my rad at the top.
I am currently experiencing pinging between 3-4000 rpm and hesitations.
I’ve bled the system looking at Erics video.
I also have no heat coming into the cabin. When I adjust the heat knob I can hear something moving behind the dash. But when I look at the control valve on the water pipe in the engine bay its not moving, so I moved it by hand and still have no heat coming into cabin.
I have ordered a new thermostat and will try locate a new rad from a wreckers yard.
I’m lost with the control valve on the water pipe tho.
Any ideas?
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Great on the t-stat and radiator replacement. with the crack
in the radiator its hard to keep air out with the loss of coolant.
You could have a stuck open t-stat. Once the known issues
have been addressed post back and we will help from there.
heres a video to help with the heater corehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWe … plpp_video
I will do. Should have the thermostat And rad Tuesday.
Il be still poking around tho in the meantime:)Quoted From college man:
Great on the t-stat and radiator replacement. with the crack
in the radiator its hard to keep air out with the loss of coolant.
You could have a stuck open t-stat. Once the known issues
have been addressed post back and we will help from there.
heres a video to help with the heater corehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWe … plpp_video
If the thermostat was stuck opened, wouldn’t he be able to get heat? that means the coolant would be constantly circulating throughout the system thus reaching the heater core. Unless I’m missing something here.
If the thermostat is stuck open than the coolant is constantly flowing to the radiator instead of being circulated around the engine. The engine would never get warm because the coolant is constantly being cooled
Quoted From rice400:
If the thermostat is stuck open than the coolant is constantly flowing to the radiator instead of being circulated around the engine. The engine would never get warm because the coolant is constantly being cooled
I know the engine won’t get up to temperature, but doesn’t the heater core need coolant running through it to work properly? If the coolant is constantly circulating, that means it should be going through the heater core too.
Yes if he has the heat set to “hot” then coolant will circulate through the heater core. The coolant, however, wont be hot so there would be no way for the heater to produce heat.
That’s what I thought. I just wanted to clarify it. I was 98% sure that’s how it worked, but there still was that 2% doubt in my mind. Lol.
You have a known leak in your cooling system. The heater core is usually one of the higher points in the cooling system, and collects air. You won’t be able to completely purge the system of air until you fix the leak. Once you have fixed the leak, you should be able to properly bleed the system and have heat, once you fix the issue with the control valve that is. It sounds like a broken cable somewhere along the line. I don’t envy you digging into your dash, but good luck.
Edit: Sorry College Man, I see I pretty much copied yer post 🙂
Just a small update.
I removed the tstat and Put it in boiling water and it opened.
However where the valve seats closed there is arubber seal there which has sort of perished away. I guess it still needs to be replaced.
I’ve left it now for the time being.I would recommend an OE thermostat if you are going to replace it as there is a big difference in quality with the aftermarket units. Everything you describe sounds like air in the system however so I would recommend you repair the leaking radiator, bleed the system, and then recheck for the symptoms you’re having.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I would recommend an OE thermostat if you are going to replace it as there is a big difference in quality with the aftermarket units. Everything you describe sounds like air in the system however so I would recommend you repair the leaking radiator, bleed the system, and then recheck for the symptoms you’re having.
Hi Eric.
I put in a brand new rad and tstat. I didn’t get oe parts.
Money is tight at the moment.
I filled her up with coolant and opened the bleed screw until coolant came out and topped up rad. I put the rad cap on then and kept her running 2000rpm till the fan cut in. Then I checked coolant level again.
Took her for a spin but I’m still getting pinking.
I have no hot air in cabin. The valve is open to leave hot water to the cabin rad.
I have an issue under the dash somwhere with some door/flap I think?
Im also still using bk44 which has not run its full can yet.
Il check again tomoro and try another bleed on the system.
Cheers.when bleeding the system. don’t put the rad cap on. just run the
level a little low so it doesn’t spill over. heres the procedurehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1 … plpp_video
Quoted From college man:
when bleeding the system. don’t put the rad cap on. just run the
level a little low so it doesn’t spill over. heres the procedurehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1 … plpp_video
Success. I got it bled and have hot air in the cabin.
I think my pinging has gone to , but il keep monitoring that.
Thanks to everybody.
Cheers.
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