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New to the site. Been working on my truck and came across Erics videos, extremely helpful. I always appreciate how he explains things in easy to understand terms , not way over my head doctor language. I do have a question or situation really? Driving truck last week had a really bad sound, truck changed in power, idle, sound, everything. Made it home to see what it could be, well, here is the video i posted so i wont have to explain everything. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=731TygPKnlA . I changed the tensioner and guides, got it all back together. It turns over but has a loud ticking or knocking sound, runs pretty ruff but holds idle. Watched your compression video and went out to buy a comprssion tester. Did that and found my #2 cyc has zero compression. 1,3,4 all are 164-180 dry , and 185-195 wet. Going to attempt a leak down test on that cyc. but i have to go buy the right attachment. the compression tool hose with fitting i have is proprietary and wont fit into my compression hose female end. boooooo 🙁 . Should i start to cry now, look at buying new truck, or spend whats left of my money on the lottery and hope i win big….????????? thanks all. Again greatly appreciate gentleman like Eric who take there own time or feel that itch to help others in there field of expertise. Thanks again.
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Thats reasonable considering the dealer. I would recommend
a new chain and of coarse tensioners. see what they quote you.
They may sell a timing chain kit.The timing chains( upper and lower) $86.00 per
Upper tensioner is $65.00
I had already replaced the lower chain tensioner and both lower chain guides.
They didnt carry a timing kit. bummer. all individual parts. They did carry a engine rebuild gasket set, $450.00 big ones.. It would come with all gaskets and valve stem seals.yep, i held off on the gasket kit. parts should be here on Tuesday. Gives me a few more days to clean up the block and engine. Might be a few days for me to post an update, but i will. Thanks to all for the help and advice.
[quote=”Baker” post=73255]yep, i held off on the gasket kit. parts should be here on Tuesday. Gives me a few more days to clean up the block and engine. Might be a few days for me to post an update, but i will. Thanks to all for the help and advice.[/quote]
Help. its what we do best. keep us posted on your progress.
be careful if using water with the engine open.My 2c is that you repair the head you have. If you’re in doubt, you could take it to a machine shop and they can do the work for you. It shouldn’t take them too long and in my experience, valves aren’t that expensive to replace. This way you would have a cylinder head that could be considered ‘new’ instead of a used one from a salvage yard.
Keep us posted.
Thanks Eric. Im gonna give the rebuild a try. Parts come in tomorrow at the dealer. Kinda glad i didnt find one at the salvage yard. The mirror i bought was expensive enough i could imagine how expensive a head would have been. Im hoping if all goes well and the parts come in, ill have it back together and ready to fire up Wed. night. I’ll definitely keep you guys posted. Your videos and the guys here on your site have been extremely helpful, not only with my Frontier rebuild but with all my issues ive been having with my two other vehicles. A huge thanks.
Maybe I’m reading this wrong but you do realize the valves can’t simply be dropped into the cylinder head and called good, dont’ you?
The seats need to be worked, valves fitted as necessary, valve stem height checked, cylinder head and block deck checked for flatness, etc, etc. This will require a number of specialty tools and some expertise in doing the work.
If I misinterpreted this then my apologies up front.
You might want to have a head shop put in the new valves for you– your valve seats and the seals are probably a bit ragged after all those miles and neither the old nor new valves may be fitting or sealing at their faces or along the stems very well.
Also since it looks like ALL your valves touched the pistons, there might be some slight bending of the other valves too, so it would be best to have a place that knows what good valve fit and travel is like to look over EVERY valve.
I don’t know if they still do this but the ancients used to put purple dye on the valves and spin them and see how evenly the dye transferred, and they’d grind the valves and/or seats until the fit was real tight and even. Don’t know if this old labor-intensive procedure is still in use.
[quote=”grg88″ post=73638]
I don’t know if they still do this but the ancients used to put purple dye on the valves and spin them and see how evenly the dye transferred, and they’d grind the valves and/or seats until the fit was real tight and even. Don’t know if this old labor-intensive procedure is still in use.[/quote]
Now days we use Prussian blue..
Karl
Prussian blue would be for BMW or VW valves.
Is there a Yokahama red or Hello Kitty pink for use on Hondas?
[quote=”Bluesnut” post=73614]Maybe I’m reading this wrong but you do realize the valves can’t simply be dropped into the cylinder head and called good, dont’ you?
The seats need to be worked, valves fitted as necessary, valve stem height checked, cylinder head and block deck checked for flatness, etc, etc. This will require a number of specialty tools and some expertise in doing the work.
If I misinterpreted this then my apologies up front.[/quote]
Thanks Bluesnut. I was expecting to have to do some work with the valves when they come in. I did check the block and head for flatness. I used a straight edge with a feeler gauge, all checked out ok. Even though i ended up ordering new parts, i used a digital micrometer to measure the springs, the valves , even the valves margin, length, all but the two bent ones checked out ok. The only thing i havent been able to measure is the valve guides. I checked at both auto parts places in town to see if they have a small hole gauge but neither shop did. I used the old vales to check for any play in the guides and all of them had no play.
All the parts , except my valves came in yesterday. Apparently the guy didnt catch that the valves got back ordered and are coming from back east somewhere and not LA like originally thought. When the valves show up ill give them a good looking over. Ill check to see how there seated, and if i need to use lapping compound with rod to get them seated right. After putting in the valves im gonna do somewhat of a leak test. Also ill do the Sharpie trick as well. I use sharpies every day on the job so im pretty good with those.Sorry for the delay in a follow up. I had issues with getting the parts as promised by the dealer. Turns out some of my stuff was back ordered and wont get here till sometime in November. :angry: So i ended up cleaning up most my existing parts: springs, keepers, retainers, most of the valves(did get a few new ones in). Got everything cleaned up and got the valves lapped, if that is the right term. Out of the sixteen valves i had 5 that had a small leak after first round of lapping. I relapped the leaking valves to a good tight seal. Pulled a all niter and got the engine back together , all torqued and fueled up. Did some turn overs with egnition system disabled to get it lubed up. Then started it up. Still have some issues that i need to iron out. Hope you all can lend some knowledge again like you have so nicely done from the start. Thanks again for all the help and direction that you all have given, its much appreciated. Here is the start up and test drive. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja6ZyiUPZlc
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