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New to the site. Been working on my truck and came across Erics videos, extremely helpful. I always appreciate how he explains things in easy to understand terms , not way over my head doctor language. I do have a question or situation really? Driving truck last week had a really bad sound, truck changed in power, idle, sound, everything. Made it home to see what it could be, well, here is the video i posted so i wont have to explain everything. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=731TygPKnlA . I changed the tensioner and guides, got it all back together. It turns over but has a loud ticking or knocking sound, runs pretty ruff but holds idle. Watched your compression video and went out to buy a comprssion tester. Did that and found my #2 cyc has zero compression. 1,3,4 all are 164-180 dry , and 185-195 wet. Going to attempt a leak down test on that cyc. but i have to go buy the right attachment. the compression tool hose with fitting i have is proprietary and wont fit into my compression hose female end. boooooo 🙁 . Should i start to cry now, look at buying new truck, or spend whats left of my money on the lottery and hope i win big….????????? thanks all. Again greatly appreciate gentleman like Eric who take there own time or feel that itch to help others in there field of expertise. Thanks again.
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Here is the update for zero compression on cy. 2. Here is the video. Looking forward to your comments. Maybe what direction to take from here? Thanks guys.
Is this an interference engine? Did you lose timing? I.E. timing chain jump?
Not sure, but those pistons look like they have marks where the valves could have made contact with the top of the pistons, especially the #2 piston… Also, note the ‘clean’ spots on the valves themselves that look like they made contact with the piston…
Time for some head work, definitely…
-Karl
I did lose timing. The timing chain did jump. Great observation on the contact the valve was making with the piston. After posting this follow up video I went back to clean up the block some and noticed the same contact marks on the pistons. Its on all four pistons only on the Intake side. If your interested, check out the first video i put up at the beginning of the post, you will see how i found the jumping chain. As far as it being a Interference engine? Im not a mechanic but its a 2.4L KA24DE engine , 1998 Nissan Frontier, and i have 230,000 miles on it. It has a timing chain so im gonna guess yes on it being a Interference engine. To be honest im not 100% sure though.
Yeah, its an interference engine… Being off time will bend valves… This isn’t the worst I have seen. I have seen some valves actually broken off and lodged in the piston!
You are going to have to have that valvetrain worked on (valves checked and some replaced) to get this engine running again…
-Karl
would you say its worth changing all the valves, springs, seals, and retainers? Is it okay to use the same pistons with those little dings in them from making contact with valves?
If no holes in the tops of the pistons they should be ok. make sure to do a complete rebuild of the head. also replace the timing chain and tensioner and gear set.
If I was trying to be cheap, I would pull another head from the pick and pull for $30 and use that…
Your springs may still be good, but there are other things about the head that should be inspected as well…I.E. valve guides, valve seats, valve edge condition, etc…
You may very well get by with slapping new valves in and driving on, but to do the job right, you should take it to a machine shop and have them look at it and give you an estimate… You could have worn guides, and worn out seats…. Since you have it apart you might as well fix it properly… It will cost a bit, but you will have essentially a new head once a machine shop is done with it….
The pistons do not look that bad, but I couldn’t see #2 that well..
JMHO
-Karl
i appreciate all the help and information guys. i just got back from checking with Orielys and AutoZone , both of them cant get the vales or springs. all they can order is the seals. So im gonna check with scrap yard closet to my house and see if they have any frontiers in the yard. thanks a bunch guys.
I don’t know what the rest of the truck is like and how much money you want to spend but to me you have four choices.
#1 You can have that head repaired.
#2 You could buy a used head and install it and take a chance.
#3 You could remove the pistons to make sure the ring grooves are not pinching the rings from the pistons hitting the valves. If ok then install new rings.
#4 You could take your losses and scrap the truck.To be honest if the truck is in good condition otherwise I would have the head reconditioned and reinstall it. It may be cheaper to have a used head reconditioned if the valves are expensive to replace. A machine shop might even have an exchange head. I don’t think the pistons are damaged enough to cause a problem.
Rockauto carries all the parts for your truck ( minus the valve springs ) if you decide to rebuild your current head I would just take it to a good machine shop and let them do it. they usually get pretty good prices on the parts.
I pulled all my rods and the two on the intake side were bent just enough to not make a good seal. What would be a good cleaner or even some good household tricks to use to clean up my block and parts if i decide to reuse them? Is there a good solvent i can use to break down the gunk? I am headed to a pick and pull yard today to see if they have a head i can pull. Maybe ill get lucky. But still looking for some good engine cleaning ideas. thks guys.
For the outside of the engine simple green or purple power works good. for parts a relatively cheap way is soaking in kerosene, but be very careful if you go that route. Safetykleen or zep is really what should use.
Karl
Thanks Karl. Im a big fan of simple green, and i have plenty of it. Just got back from the auto yard, no luck with finding same motor, one came close then opened the hood to find block already taken. boooo. I did find a rearview mirror for my wife Honda Civic though. When i went to pay , i was shocked. $9.83 for a 16 yr old mirror. I asked why so much? here is the break down:
entry fee – $2.00 ( which i didnt include in the above price)
mirror – $6.95
gate entry sales tax – $.16
environmental charge – $2.00
CA tax – $.72
total out the gate – $11.83So other then my frustrating afternoon, gotta finish cleaning up the block , check all rods to see if its only those two that are bent. I dont have the money for a machine shop to do the head, so might have to look at getting two rods so far and look at replacing those two and replace all seals.Not sure yet.
thanks alot college man. i did end up checking ebay ,was just concerned i would be buying a used head with bent rods like mine . So get this. i decide for shits and giggles to call the Nissan Dealer closest to me in Oceanside and check if they can get the parts and how much?
From the dealer OEM parts:
Intake Valve – $8.28 each
Exhaust Valve – $13.72 each
Valve stem seals – $5.15 each ( up there for each , but its OEM)
Didnt ask for price on valve springs, retainer or keepers, but overall not bad prices at all. Looks like i have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow. They ship out of LA , takes two days.
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