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Ok folks- here’s the story: I replaced my inner/outer tie rods when and got it aligned. They showed me where my rear trailing arm bushings were abt toast. Quote was 1200 bucks! crazy/insane. Doesnt matter, I’m a diy’er and joy doing it anyway…So i bought the special tool press for it. It went pretty smoothly. I put in moog bushings. I replaced it. On the right rear now there’s really odd noise when going over a bump. Sounds like screaching, I’m pretty sure it is because I used antiseaze on it – it sounds like it scrapes or like it’s moving around…like the trailing arm is moving slightly in/out of the bushing (which is bolted onto the car) or something…. Also when i was down there their is another suspension part attached to the trailing arm (dont know the name of it, or can’t remember) and it has two bushings on on each end, and they looked to be in pretty bad shape as well…How do I determine what the blasted noise is? Should i take the time to take off the trailing bushings and wipe the antiseaze off it, to see if that would fix it? Is it a bad bushing? I jacked it up and both sides look the same, except this side I put antiseaze on..would that create the problem? I wish i had the chassis ears, maybe its time to invest in some – then I could try to pinpoint the exact sound origination.
btw, this repair, for someone who hasn’t done one ever, took about 1 hr each side (you have to unbolt the trailing arm , and a few other things so it drops a bit, so you can attach your press onto…takes a little time, but def not hard to do. it’s a definite DIY, well unless i totally screwed up and thats why it is making the sound that i have now… 😉
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Well, on something like that you don’t need anti seize. Did you line up the new bushing pretty close to where the old one was? There is a long side and a short side, you installed it the same way right?
Okay, if your upper and lower control arm bushings are toast, those are fairly straight forward – buy new bushings and press out the old ones or you can spend a little more and just get the whole arm with bushings already in there.
This is a good video. Eric is big fan of hammers (as am I) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPTDzrxqoOo
Thats right the control arm bushing has a long and short side for bolt attachment to the frame.
Yes, I made a mark on it to get it close to the original, so the holes would line up as well as the pitch of it.
So – still not sure what to do – at this point i’m thinking to take it off and wipe off the antiseaze, then reinstall, to see if that makes a difference.
I don’t think it’s the upper/lower control arm bushing that’s bad – i didn’t really touch those, except to detatch for a moment.
It’s attached to stblzr attached to the control arm? Not sure what it’s called…that could be making the squeek now…possibly…dunno for sure.The one on the far left of the picture:
The part at very left is the toe adjustment, for when you have an alignment done.
As far as the squeaking is concerned it could just mean that the bushings need some silicone grease on them. The service manual recommends silicone grease on all those bushings. My girlfriend’s 97 recently start squeaking after getting an alignment done. I haven’t had a chance to look at it yet, but I think the bushings just need to get greased.
Try lubing up bushing where ever you can get grease on them – preferrably the ends where the bolts go through that touch metal.
Yea anti-sieze was a bad move. I’ve actually done a video on that process that I have yet to edit however even with the ‘tool’ I would not say that it’s as easy as you describe, in addition after the work is done an alignment would be necessairy. I would recommend you remove the antisieze from the parts and recheck your work while your in there. Keep us posted on what you find.
Took it all apart, wiped off the antisieze, put it back together. Test drive. Same problem. Sound exists when I bank or turn the car hard left. Sounds possibly like the trailing arm sliding on the bushing…Sounds like but it isn’t…I have to bank sharp left though. I cannot reproduce the sound with it parked and me bouncing or pushing the car around.
I will either go get a new part, or try to put the old one back in…to see if that fixes the problem. YOUR ADVICE OR OPINION?
Ya, when it is all fixed and working, I’ll take it in for an alignment…I first have to do the upper and lower ball joints in the front as well…older car needing some suspension parts replaced.
Just for the heck of it see if there is any rust between the splash shield and rotor that might be wedged in there, I’ve had this happen a couple of times with a repair like yours, it’s also possible that the splash shield is slightly bent and making contact with the rotor during extreme cornering so you might get away with just bending it a little.
Hi all, I hate to hijack this thread but I have a similar problem/question about rear suspension on a 93 Honda Civic. I just replaced the rear struts and strut mount bushings (center) on my gf’s 1993 Honda Civic EX and now both tires are toed out. I have been doing lots of research on the internet and found this site and thread ,thankfully, that seems to be getting me on the right track. Anyway, I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine today who said I probably swtiched around the rear upper, inner control arm bushings and that could be part of the toe problem with the tires. I have kinda gathered there is a long side and short side to this component so I must have gotten it backwards when I reinstalled it. Does this sound right? Can I just 180 degree those bushings and that will help with the toe problem on the tires. I’m thinking about getting all new ones, for each side as i’m sure the OE parts are worn out. The plastic has worn away a lot. Anyway, sorry again to hijack the thread but this seemed a great place to start. Thanks all in advance for your feedback.
@Cappel77 You do realize that the rear toe is adjusted by the adjusters at the front of the trailing arms and after any work like this you will need to have the vehicle aligned to bring the toe back into spec.
The biggest thing I got out of my suspension/steering class was– whenever you remove and replace suspension components that have a rubber bushing that is attached to a normally load carrying part, like a control arm, don’t do the final torque down on those parts until the part is ‘loaded’ by the vehicle’s weight. If a control arm or say, a leaf spring has a rubber bushing in it, and you tighten it down without the vehicle’s weight on it, it will twist the bushing around once the weight is applied to it, and could damage the bushing or cause a premature failure.. These bushing are glued into the part, and tightening them without a load, and then putting a load on them will cause them to twist alot in the houseing… I’m not sure if this applies to what you did, but you mentioned the control arm. Just thinking out loud via typing.
you are going to laugh –
I FINALLY Figured out just what in the heck was creating that noise. Let me say that I couldnt reproduce the sound by bouncing/shaking the car, etc.
I finally jacked the car back up and went under with my pry bar, and wiggled/moved things in the general area that and found it. It was the toe adjuster bolt. It had worked its way loose, which means I didnt tighten it enough originally – most likely. Anyway I tightened it and bam kazam its fixed.It’s been a long weekend, I also replaced the upper and lower ball joints on one side. Had one lower ball joint fail, and decided to just do them all while I was at it. It really wasn’t too bad.
I also tried to get my wheel bearings out. TRIED. uh, i really think you need a press to get off 1998 honda civic lx front wheel bearings…Eric YOU HAVE to do a video on this, I do not understand how to get that wheel bearing/hub separated otherwise. Wheel bearings aren’t bad, yet, but I have this feeling that someday in the next couple of years I’m giong to have to replace those (135k miles).
Thanks for the update, glad you found the issue. I’ve been wanting to do a video on that wheel bearing replacement for some time but it seems whenever I go looking for a job like that there are none to be found. You need a slide hammer to get the hub out before you remove the knuckle and then you need a press to get the bearing in and out.
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