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Sputtered on 50 mile drive home from work, slightly at first. Near home stopped at light, went dead. Checked spark, it’s good and checked fuel at banjo bolt, good pressure. New dist, new cap/button, new wires, new coil, new plugs. Rotary button turning when cranking (chk for broke T belt). Checked fuses. Here’s the kicker, no codes. At a lose, not sure where to check next. Thx in advance.
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I’ve started checking the coolant temp sensor. I’ve read that if it reads too high or too low it will not allow the car to crank. Does this sound correct? I’m reading 3.75K ohms across the sensor with the connector unplugged. It’s around 50 degrees here today. Anyone know if this is an okay value
[quote=”Cookie66″ post=122259]I’ve started checking the coolant temp sensor. I’ve read that if it reads too high or too low it will not allow the car to crank. Does this sound correct? I’m reading 3.75K ohms across the sensor with the connector unplugged. It’s around 50 degrees here today. Anyone know if this is an okay value[/quote]
The coolant sensor has nothing to do with the car cranking.
If you have spark and fuel thats good. what about injector
pusle?see if this no start link helps. Plug your coolant sensor
back in for now. Try some starter fluid to see if it starts.
If so fuel/injector problem which may be main relay.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Okay, tried to start with starting fluid and it didn’t even try to start. Going to check the main relay again to make sure I didn’t miss anything.
[quote=”Cookie66″ post=122328]Okay, tried to start with starting fluid and it didn’t even try to start. Going to check the main relay again to make sure I didn’t miss anything.[/quote]
If it did not start with starter fluid check spark at the plugs.
Still can’t figure out injector pulse test/check.:/ Pulled the valve cover off to check timing belt and marks, everything looks good as far as belt and timing. Good spark coming off the coil. I will check the plugs again for fire. BTW, I have another distributor on the way just to be sure (in case igniter is questionable, new dist for a little more buck). I am pretty sure main relay is good. Key on, fuel pump buzzes and instr lights come on for about 2-3 sec. Just not sure what I’m missing.
Thanks for the help.
Pulled all four plugs and laid accorded valve cover to check fire. All four seam to be firing great. Ugg.
Checked voltage at injectors, 12v on yel/blk. Put jumper on test connector to see if my scan tool was missing a code, still no codes.
What spark plugs are you using?
How many ohms on your coil?
Is the oil level above the top hole?
What wait oil are you using?New NGK plugs gapped .044. Oil is 5W-30. Oil level was a little low, just above the min hole. Car uses a little oil (300,000 mile) but normally runs like a sewing machine. New coil from Oreillys, not sure of the ohms, but will check in the morning. Also going to check further into an accurate fuel pressure reading. Just used Eric’s method of checking at banjo bolt where it leaves the filter up until now. Still doesn’t explain why it won’t hit on starter fluid. I’m positive I have good spark on all four plugs now and like I said, the timing looks good going by the marks and belt. Fuel + Spark + decent timing should at least fire now and then.
It’s the EX model and I believe the motor is a D16Y8. Also each time I’ve pulled the plugs, they never look wet. That’s what confuses me as to why it doesn’t fire when I hit it with starting fluid. Maybe I’m not racing enough each time? Going to try to check compression on the cylinders this morning. With the bucking starting slight then ending with a stall, it seemed to stop if I gave it more/less gas on ride home. I tried to get as many clues as to what was happening that I could for 50 miles. When it started I had a half of a tank of gas. I even stopped and filled tank up thinking I had gotten some bad gas.
Completed compression check,
Cylinder 1. 125 psi
Cylinder 2, 125 psi
Cylinder 3, 132 psi
Cylinder 4, 130 psiHaven’t checked to see if these are okay yet, just wanted to get them posted.
No clue what to check next. Guess I’ll. start on fuel next. Got spark and now I have compression readings that I think are good for 300k miles but will check. The only thing I know of that’s not confirmed is fuel delivery.
Still trying. Pulled the plugs AGAIN and this time I shot a little carb cleaner into each cylinder. Quickly put the plugs back in and gave it a try. Nothing. Starting to second guess that pretty spark I saw earlier. Weak spark? New dist will be here Tuesday.
It started!!!! I finally figured out how to do an injector pulse test or one version of it. 4am, i took my tester and grounded it to neg on battery, turned the key to on and put probe on one of two wires looking for 12volts. Not sure which wire, like I said it was 4am and I was just looking for the light to come on. With the probe inserted on #4 inj, it left the light standing up perfect to see from drivers seat. When I started to crank, I could see the light slowly pulsing. Just as I was about to stop cranking with a sense of accomplishment that I had proven “Injector Pulse”, IT STARTED!! Not only did it start it ran very smooth. I removed the test light and it continued to run. As I stepped back and tried to figured out what happened, I did notice a slight miss had started. Sounds like I created a ground for the injectors/ECU that is missing. A23 and A24??? Does this sound correct? Where does this ground connect to engine/battery? I really hope this helps someone else that is having this same problem. This is painful, especially at this time of the year.
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