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couple questions here….one is, my engine is idling at about 700rpms but it runs a little rough….I was thinking it might be the EGR Valve but not sure looking for some other possible reasons….two, I noticed when I opened my hood a dried spray pattern across my eningine…..I am not really sure what is spraying since I cannot see anything when the car is running. I thought it was coolant at first cause I keep filling my reserve tank and it keeps leaking somewhere. So not really sure what is spraying. Three, even though I am losing coolant my temp guage isnt going up it stays just below halfway….how do I tell if the thermostate for the coolant temp guage is bad….the CEL light has also been on and flashing at me….I plugged it in and got the codes and looked them up….I have a cylinder 1 misfire
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The miss fire probably trashed your cat converter if it’s been like that for a while.
I would be looking for manly a spark problem on you miss firing cylinder.
How long has it been since this thing has had new plugs?
The cat code is from unburnt fuel going into the converter.
Test for spark on the missing cylinder by using a spark tester, You can get them at any auto parts stores pretty much.@trcustoms, The spark plugs are 2 months old and they are double plat.
@johnzcarz, Well i guess the temp guage is below the middle of the range. and no the fan does not kick on unless i tell it to. I mean there is still coolant in the system.I am gettingI would skip doing anything with the EGR until you know for sure it’s not something more obvious. If you have a misfire code and it’s pointing to 1 specific cylinder, do some checking and make sure everything is OK with the cylinder and go from there.
+1 with johnzcarz advice.
If the CEL is flashing, you have a class A misfire and it needs to be addressed immediately.
A flashing CEL means you have a bad enough misfire it could damage the engine or cat, this should be looked at first. Pull the wires and plugs to get a look at them, if they are not NGK then I would replace them with such, also check the cap and rotor and replace them if they are old. Also look for oil in the spark plug wells, I’ll be posting some links for you here including one for that. I suspect your coolant may be leaking from the top seam of the rad, I’ll have a link for that video too. Why don’t we start with those and go from there as that may be the source of your problems. Forget about the EGR for now as it’s not a common failure on that car, here are your video links. Report back with your findings and we can take it from there.
The plugs are 2 month old autolights double plat. the rotor and cap are 3 months old the wires are 2 months old and I have pulled the wires out and looked for oil and there is none. I think your right in the fact that it is leaking from the top of the rad…I am bringing it into a shop tmrw and that should give me some direction since I need to get this taken care of…I will probably need a new rad but I can put that in myself. It’s not the head gasket cause there is no white smoke out of the tailpipe. its wierd cause my guage doesnt read any higher and when I take off the rad cap there is coolant in there and its pretty clean. The problem is that the overflow tank is going dry, so maybe that valve on the rad cap isnt letting coolant back into the tank.
Autolights in that engine are a bad idea, NGK or Nippon Denso only, NGK or OE wires only. The right parts DO make a difference on Hondas. You won’t necessarily have white smoke coming out of the tail pipe with a head gasket issue, you need to test for it as I show in this video.
One question regarding your misfire, do you have bad idle or hard to start upon starting after driving the car. I know my civic would start fine but after stopping it and do my errand it would idle rough for a few seconds. Head gasket was the culprit. Start with the cylinder misfire and go from there. First time post, been watching ETHG for a while, you rock man!
So just replaced the wires with NGK HE73 and the plugs….Went to an auto parts store used their diagnostic tool and cleared the codes I was getting which were misfires on Cylinders 1,2,3 and a random cylinder misfire and one that said my catylitic system is below threashold. after I cleared them I let the car run and the CEL came on again. I then plugged the tool back in a got 2 codes one for the cat system and one for a misfire on just cylinder 1. I plulled each of the wires out one at a time and started my car. the only time when my car didnt shut off is when the wire for cylinder 1 was out. The idle is bad yes but not horrible.
Sounds like you have issue with #1 cylinder, you might want to check the compression and if it’s low on #1 if it is I would recommend doing a leak down, I suspect a burned exhaust valve on #1 cylinder.
also when I was looking at the misfire info on the diagnostic tool it said the misfire occured at around 685rpm which is at idle…..I notice that when I shift from park to reverse to N to drive the engine like sputters or feels like it is going to die but doesnt. it dips down in rpms but then steadies itself.
you can all your answers watching etcg video’s on this topic. change the plugs, use honda recommended plugs only, especially on this car..dont change the oe wires, they last for a long time and better than aftermarket…follow etcg advise and look at the links..your car has the updated seals in the valve cover, but still might leak oil into plug well..
you need to do a leak down test on this car..dont throw $ at it,,,need to find the root cause….i beleive you have a burnt ex valve,,,as far as coolant loss, it should use no coolant…i have the same engine in my accord and its never used a drop,,,none in 4 years,,,,the temp gauge reads a little more than 1/4 in my car..head gasket are rare, so you must have a leak,,,pressure teast the system…as far as blinking CEL,,i bet you cat is fried because you prolonged the repair…
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