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repairing a laundry list of items on my other truck lately. 1998 Ford Ranger, 4.0 5 speed 4×4 Stepside xlt. repair list includes; rear main seal, flywheel, clutch & pressure plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder hydraulic assembly, all the u joints, all four shocks, left and right upper and lower control arms on the front suspension, front brake rotors and pads, rear brake cylinders, both pinion seals, left axle seal in front axle, left 4×4 hub rebuild(mile marker manual locking hub) front sway bar bushings and end links, right rear leaf spring hanger and shackle, fluid services in front and rear axle, transfer case, transmission, and oil and filter change for the engine, brake fluid flush, clutch fluid replacement, power steering fluid flush, coolant flush, and a new air filter(possible k&n replacement air filter), and both front and rear replacement chrome bumpers with new fog lamps and all valences and ground effects as well. as you can see there is a LOT of stuff going into and onto this truck in a short period of time, and i have already started. things that are done include the front bumper and fog lamps, front brake pads and rotors, rear main seal, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, and clutch hydraulics. parts that will be going on this later pay period will be the four shocks, the sway bar end links and bushings, the hanger and shackle on the leaf spring, and also a pair of aluminum side steps that i dont have anything else to put them onto. i will try to take pictures and give explanations in places where i can. if anyone has questions or tips, please, go ahead and ask/speak up.
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TRANSFER CASE
first things first for servicing the clutch is getting the transmission and transfer case out of the way. easiest way i found to separate the trans and transfer case was to remove the drive shafts(duh) and place a tall jack stand under the transfer case. remove the transmission cross member, transmission mount bushing, and exhaust hanger bracket, then put the transmission jack under the transmission and lift up on the transmission. the bolts go into the transfer case on the transmission side, and you cant get them all out while the cross member is still attached.it may take some persuasion, but getting the transfer case off is the easy part.the transmission is next. starting with the exhaust flanges, remove the four bolts that hold the y pipe to the exhaust manifolds. they are a 13mm hex head, and you will probably need an oxy acetylene torch to get them out(careful of any wiring or fluid lines). with the y pipe out of the way, unbolt the battery and starter. the battery cable going to the starter is on the bottom on a bolt/stud with a nut holding it on. remove the nut and battery cable, then remove the stud. i put all the bolts on magnetic trays, but just keep them organized in some way. the upper starter bolt requires some ingenuity. using a 24″ 3/8 drive extension, two universal joints, and a 13mm deep well socket, go over the front axle and behind the front bumper. remove the bolt and maneuver the starter to a position where it will be out of the way. place the bolt with the stud and the nut. there are eight more bolts holding the transmission in place, as well as the clutch hydraulic line, which has a “quick disconnect” fitting. if you bought a replacement hydraulic or clutch assembly, there will be a small metal tool that comes with the parts. use it to push the small white nylon sleeve into the brass fitting on the transmission side of the line, then use a pair of side cutters to leverage the brass fitting on the master cylinder side out and separate the line. you may spill a little bit of fluid, but it wont be very much. the eight bolts holding the transmission to the engine at this point are all 13mm, four of which are longer that the other half. the longer bolts go on the BOTTOM OF THE BELL HOUSING, the SHORTER go around the top. at that point, you can slide the transmission back from the engine, revealing the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel assembly.
removing the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel are relatively simple, the only specialty socket you will need is an inverted torx for the flywheel bolts. a screwdriver will get the rear main seal out in no time at all, and the new one will just go into place as easily as the old one came out. putting the flywheel back on requires a certain torque pattern and number. i used the factory torque specification, but a standard eight point pattern. starting at the one o clock position, i went 1, 4, 7, 2, 5, 8, 3, 6 at 66 foot pounds. you will need some way to keep the flywheel from rotating. the pilot bearing goes on with the alignment tool and a soft faced mallet or dead blow hammer until it is flush. the clutch plate and pressure plate bolt to the flywheel at 14 foot pounds, or 148 inch pounds. installation for the transmission and transfer case are the reverse procedure for removal.
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