- This topic has 13 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hey everyone I’ve got an issue with my 1998 Honda Civic LX when I press down on the accelerator after a certain point the car begins to lose its accelerating power and it begins to climb speed extremely slowly. Setting my car to fully retarded timing seems to return some of the power, but it still bogs down. In addition to the acceleration issues I can smell an exhaust like smell when I press down to accelerate too hard. I also believe the car is running Rich because I’m getting reduced mpg used to be 30-32 now 24-27, as well; as the voltages on my upstream and downstream o2 sensors usually reading 0.7. No codes are showing up
I believe the issue began after I had my distibutor replaced, but I can’t be certain because I’ve come to learn my car only runs well with the distributor fully retarded. I learned this after I tried setting my timing to 13 degrees.
I’ve tried
-Setting the Timing. Car runs better fully retarded
-replacing the cat
-Both o2 sensors
-spark plugs
-Spark plug wires are about 20,000 mi old
-Temperature sending sensor
-thermostat
-Fuel filter
-2 Treatments of techRon fuel cleaner
-air filterI’ve ordered an Iat sensor and a map sensor I plan on replacing those soon. If you have any suggestions please let me know
-
Replies
-
Your losing power from your ignition timing is fully retarded. I believe your
timing should be 16 deg btdc. see if this video helps. Correct the timing first.https://www.ericthecarguy.com/engine-videos/992-how-to-set-ignition-timing-acura-integra
Have you checked mechanical timing lately (line up timing marks on crankshaft and camshaft to cylinder 1 TDC while engine off)? Also, when was the timing belt last done and who did the work?
I’ve tried advancing the ignition timing to 14degrees recommended is 12+/-2deg for whatever reason fully retarded reduces the bog effect I feel on acceleration. I had my timing belt changed after this problem started, but I will look into the mechaniCal timing as one of the possible problems.
I made sure to jump the ecu connector before setting the the ignition timing.
I had my timing belt changed after this problem started, but I will look into the mechaniCal timing as one of the possible problems.
In that case, I’d take the car back to the mechanic that did the timing belt and ask whether mechanical timing was spot-on. I’d do this before any more parts changes.
If the timing belt is advanced by one or more teeth, it could explain the need to retard ignition timing.
as the voltages on my upstream and downstream o2 sensors usually reading 0.7
Did you use a scan tool to get that reading? If so, what do your other values (e.g., long/short term fuel trim) look like at idle and under load?
I used the torque app with a Bluetooth obd2 scanner. I’ll set it to read these values and ill let you know what I get thank you for the help thus far
At idle after warming up mySTFT seems to rest around 2.5%
How should I test long term and short term trim is at idle appropriate?
Anything within plus/minus 5% on long term and short term trim is generally considered normal.
However, you’ll need to redo the test while revving the engine to definitively rule out a rich or lean condition. To understand why, check out:
Also, it would be helpful to confirm that the mechanical timing is indeed set properly.
You mention replacing the CAT. Was it bad? A bad CAT can break off pieces over time and work their way back to the exhaust. While driving the pieces will slowly plug up the exhaust flow and cause a drop in power. The exhaust you smell when this happens could be leakage at joints when the back pressure builds up. When the car is stopped and sits, the pieces fall down and no more blockage until they build back up in the exhaust. Check the exhaust back pressure while it runs well and then when it runs poorly.
I’ve been reading that I can unbolt my pre cat O2 sensor and run the engine with the hole exposed temporarily to test for a clogged muffler is this a smart way to test it? If so I plan on testing it once with current retarded timing then advancing it to where it should be to see if its working properly.
[quote=”Tharmon” post=180520]I’ve been reading that I can unbolt my pre cat O2 sensor and run the engine with the hole exposed temporarily to test for a clogged muffler is this a smart way to test it? If so I plan on testing it once with current retarded timing then advancing it to where it should be to see if its working properly.[/quote]
NO! Just NO!
Alright in case you can’t visually identify the parts of your exhaust it goes like this (I have the same ’98 civic btw):
Exhaust Manifold/Cat with O2 sensor (one welded unit in our civics)—>post cat 02 sensor—->A pipe—>midpipe with resonator—>muffler—>exhaust pipe
Also you mentioned all the parts you replaced so I have a few questions:
1.) When you replaced the plugs & plug wires did you use NGK/DENSO parts?
2.) When you replaced the Thermostat & temp sending sensor did you use OEM Honda parts?
3.) Have you checked the rest of your exhaust system to ensure you don’t have a rusted out metal gasket or loose connections between everything I listed up there?
4.) When was the last time you did a transmission fluid change or Honda ATF flush?Had the muffler Exhaust system checked out today. The mechanic said it was clear. As for the plugs replaced with NGK. Sending unit and thermostat non oem. OEM atf fluid changed very regularly. Going to look into the mechanical timing next and the MAP sensor.
I took this video on the way home from getting the muffler checked out is this normal for the fuel trim while cruising along?
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.