Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 98 Cavalier cold start issue
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Reese.
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November 20, 2013 at 7:20 pm #563854
I have a 98 Chevy cavalier 2.2
Basically when i go to start it in the morning it starts for a second or two then stalls but ONLY when its cold.
If i leave it overnight and do not start it until 11 am or so it will start fine. I am having a lot of trouble pin-pointing the issue.
So far i have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator. I have gas in the tank, the fuel pump is making its noise (its pumping fuel) and there is no check engine light. And I noticed the Theft system light blinks too. Car has about 93k miles.I appreciate any advice/help
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November 20, 2013 at 9:08 pm #563863
as i say before in order for a engine too run you need 3 things…
1fuel a correct mixture of it with air usually 14.7/1
2spark too ignite the air fuel mixture
3compression too compress the air fuel mixture
i will start off buy telling you what i was trained to do in a instance like this
first check everything underhood (and since you have replaced fuel filter and regulator i am sure you have done this.) checking twice wont hurt i guess, do a quick inspection of everything air filter vacuum lines make sure everything is in place first…
next even though there is no engine light does not mean a code cannot be thrown, take the car too a autozone and have them pull the history codes and see what they can give you, this may more pin point your issue as there are TONS of sensors that can cause drivability issues, TPS, MAP, MAF, IAT, O2, just as examples and some of them can falter at different temperatures and going and replacing each one until you have fixed the issue can just leave you a mess… get some codes and see where they leave you…
also may i add even though your fuel pump may be making noise it might not be working correctly and may be weak, the only way too make sure is too check your fuel pressure and if fuel pressure is low your engine wont run right especually if cold beacuse the fuel system needs too re pressurize and prime, most GM fuel pressure is between 40-50PSI but this can very between vehicles so check your specs 🙂 and on initial start up the engine runs rich too assist in starting or it may exibit some of the same issues you are experiencing, rough idle, or even stalling out beacuse there is not enough fuel in the combustion chambers too keep it running.
hope this helps.
November 20, 2013 at 9:18 pm #563865When you go to start it does the security light stop blinking?
check your coolant sensor.November 20, 2013 at 9:31 pm #563874[quote=”college man” post=79687]When you go to start it does the security light stop blinking?
check your coolant sensor.[/quote]That’s what I was thinking, that or maybe the Intake air temp sensor. Could be the ECT is sending a signal that makes the engine think it is warm and therefore not sending enough fuel.
November 21, 2013 at 12:13 am #563931[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=79686]as i say before in order for a engine too run you need 3 things…
1fuel a correct mixture of it with air usually 14.7/1
2spark too ignite the air fuel mixture
3compression too compress the air fuel mixture
i will start off buy telling you what i was trained to do in a instance like this
first check everything underhood (and since you have replaced fuel filter and regulator i am sure you have done this.) checking twice wont hurt i guess, do a quick inspection of everything air filter vacuum lines make sure everything is in place first…
next even though there is no engine light does not mean a code cannot be thrown, take the car too a autozone and have them pull the history codes and see what they can give you, this may more pin point your issue as there are TONS of sensors that can cause drivability issues, TPS, MAP, MAF, IAT, O2, just as examples and some of them can falter at different temperatures and going and replacing each one until you have fixed the issue can just leave you a mess… get some codes and see where they leave you…
also may i add even though your fuel pump may be making noise it might not be working correctly and may be weak, the only way too make sure is too check your fuel pressure and if fuel pressure is low your engine wont run right especually if cold beacuse the fuel system needs too re pressurize and prime, most GM fuel pressure is between 40-50PSI but this can very between vehicles so check your specs 🙂 and on initial start up the engine runs rich too assist in starting or it may exibit some of the same issues you are experiencing, rough idle, or even stalling out beacuse there is not enough fuel in the combustion chambers too keep it running.
hope this helps.[/quote]
I’ll head over to autozone and check for codes. also when it runs it never starves for fuel or misfires or anything and it is a smooth idle. And everything under the hood seems to be in check.
November 21, 2013 at 12:15 am #563932[quote=”college man” post=79687]When you go to start it does the security light stop blinking?
[/quote]I know I should have looked but I didn’t check if it was still blinking when i was starting it. However I just drove it now that its warmer and when I put the key to accessory and start it, the light did not pop on. This makes me think there might be a problem there.
November 21, 2013 at 12:29 am #563937[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=79686]as i say before in order for a engine too run you need 3 things…
1fuel a correct mixture of it with air usually 14.7/1
2spark too ignite the air fuel mixture
3compression too compress the air fuel mixture
i will start off buy telling you what i was trained to do in a instance like this
first check everything underhood (and since you have replaced fuel filter and regulator i am sure you have done this.) checking twice wont hurt i guess, do a quick inspection of everything air filter vacuum lines make sure everything is in place first…
next even though there is no engine light does not mean a code cannot be thrown, take the car too a autozone and have them pull the history codes and see what they can give you, this may more pin point your issue as there are TONS of sensors that can cause drivability issues, TPS, MAP, MAF, IAT, O2, just as examples and some of them can falter at different temperatures and going and replacing each one until you have fixed the issue can just leave you a mess… get some codes and see where they leave you…
also may i add even though your fuel pump may be making noise it might not be working correctly and may be weak, the only way too make sure is too check your fuel pressure and if fuel pressure is low your engine wont run right especually if cold beacuse the fuel system needs too re pressurize and prime, most GM fuel pressure is between 40-50PSI but this can very between vehicles so check your specs 🙂 and on initial start up the engine runs rich too assist in starting or it may exibit some of the same issues you are experiencing, rough idle, or even stalling out beacuse there is not enough fuel in the combustion chambers too keep it running.
hope this helps.[/quote]
We had a Ford Crown Victoria come into the shop long ago with a no start. It had come from 2 different shops that were unable to find out why it would not run. No codes, had spark, fuel and great compression.
When going over the data PIDS line by line I discovered the Baro reading was 10 pounds (should be almost 30 at sea level) meaning the computer was adjusting mixture for a altitude of 8,000 feet above sea level. The MAP (which houses the Baro sensor) was bad, bad enough to cause a no start, but not bad enough to set a code.
November 21, 2013 at 10:04 am #564127and thats when having a scan tool that reads data is pretty important… i myself have had a few situations where there are no codes thrown but watching data on a scan tool i was able too see something was not right…
November 21, 2013 at 10:21 am #564132[quote=”firemanreese” post=79721][quote=”college man” post=79687]When you go to start it does the security light stop blinking?
[/quote]I know I should have looked but I didn’t check if it was still blinking when i was starting it. However I just drove it now that its warmer and when I put the key to accessory and start it, the light did not pop on. This makes me think there might be a problem there.[/quote]
when i had my old 98 regal on a very rare occasion when i started the car the security light would come on and stay on, i also had a friend with a caviler that did the same thing once and the funny thing was he didnt even have a security chip in his car kea… neither of us have had issues with the car not starting due too the security system, HOWEVER it does happen so keep an eye on that..
with that being said i sort of did not see the security light part in your post obviously if a security light comes on and stays on the car may not start either, but as both of these guys have good ideas of what your issue may be, in my experiences though with many of the sensors on your engine it is best in my experiences too plug a scan tool in see if any codes come up too possibly narrow the posiblities down, if not that then someone as previously stated may have too view data on a scan tool that can show live data and see if any figures are off from normal, sometimes sensors can be off enough too cause issues, but not off enough too throw a code however from my experiences and i am sure they agree too some sort of sensor is causing your issue evidently related too temperature due too the fact your car acts up when its cold outside.
November 22, 2013 at 5:27 am #564171I’d say look again for a hose off some place. The air sensor measures the amount of air supposedly entering the engine and the ECU adds the appropriate amount of fuel. Any hose that is off, and these can be in places that are hard to see like under the throttle body, allows extra air to leak in and this messes up the mixture. I had a hose come off of the intake of my car and I had to hold the throttle about half way open for cold start or keep the engine running when first started. After warm it drove fine.
November 22, 2013 at 5:45 am #564182From the linked PDF (looks like the upload capabilities have not been restored yet)
If the instrument cluster does not send a password within a preset window, the PCM will enter the Short Tamper mode. During the Short Tamper mode the PCM will not allow the car to operate for 4 seconds. If the password is incorrect, the PCM will enter the Long Tamper mode. During the Long Tamper Mode the following actions will occur.
^the indicator (anti theft) light will flash
^injectors will be turned off for 10 minuets.November 23, 2013 at 1:33 am #564348I just went through this with my own car. Completely different make, and several year older but same issue. Crank, started somewhat, chugged for a few seconds then died.
When you start it cold if you hold your foot on the accelerator for a few bit does it even out and then after 10-12 seconds its able to idle on its own? Any black smoked in the exhaust?
If it will start with your foot holding the rpm up higher like that change the ECT with a genuine factory one. Its old enough that its within the time frame it needs changing. A lot of the time I end up replacing the ECT with any ignition tune up.
November 30, 2013 at 1:57 am #565744If the theory of the security system being faulty doesn’t pan out, you might want to check to see if there’s an issue with the check valve in the fuel pump. Fuel pumps have a check valve that’s suppose to hold some pressure in the system to make restarting after sitting that much easier. If the check valve is not working like it should it will allow fuel pressure to bleed off and cause extended cranking when trying to start the vehicle for the first time in the morning. You can easily check this by turning the key to the ON position but not cranking the engine for 3-5 seconds. Do this 2 or 3 times and then try and crank the engine. If it fires right up, you might have an issue with this check valve. This video shows what’s inside a fuel pump, including the check valve.
Keep us posted.
December 9, 2013 at 5:14 am #567795Okay so here is my update. Every single morning it’s doing this to me because it’s cold now. In the morning when I first go to start the car only the check engine lights up while the key is on accessory. No other lights are on. When I crank it all the light go off and then when the car shuts off 2 seconds later they all blink once or twice really fast and shut off like they are trying to stay illuminated. eventually after 10 or 15 tries the lights work properly and the theft light blinks. I leave the key in the on position until it stops blinking and then my car works fine and dandy. also the low coolant light comes on occasionally when i’m driving. So thats where im at right now. I have tried turning the key to the on position up to ten times before cranking it but its a no go.
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