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The service number is like a cross fit ability reference for software drivers, kind of like trying to run a printer on your home computer without running the disk.
The computer sees the component but hasn’t a clue what it is or how to use it.
The ECM is no different so long as the internal software supports whatever hardware your car has. In your case your vehicle may have three 02 sensors where the one it came off had 4.
Don’t concentrate on if the wiring is there or not, doesn’t matter. The only thing that matters is if the pin is there to utilize a driver for that component.
Not all pins are used and not all wires are used.As easy as it sounds it is not. You must have a vision from an engineers standpoint to understand where the underlying problem is and is why the DIY crap goes to the way side sooner than later.
If you use another PCM, i believe it will need to be calibrated for your particular vehicle. I think Jacob covered this in another thread?
Do you have a DVOM?
Capacitors pop. I don’t know what a relay will do when it blows. It’s an electromagnet so I imagine it will just die without warning.
Just because the service number is right does not mean the software is right.
The service number is like a class identification for certain bodies.
If you are in over your head you need to take it to a shop to be at least diagnosed for the problem, then you can focus in on the correction path.
If you are trying save some money on a repair by doing it yourself you need at least a basic understanding and some basic but special tools to get through it.
Not everyone can do the DIY thing no matter how many videos Eric makes. The knowledge and experience doesn’t get transfer by just watching a video.Quoted From jacobnbr1:
The service number is like a cross fit ability reference for software drivers, kind of like trying to run a printer on your home computer without running the disk.
The computer sees the component but hasn’t a clue what it is or how to use it.
The ECM is no different so long as the internal software supports whatever hardware your car has. In your case your vehicle may have three 02 sensors where the one it came off had 4.
Don’t concentrate on if the wiring is there or not, doesn’t matter. The only thing that matters is if the pin is there to utilize a driver for that component.
Not all pins are used and not all wires are used.As easy as it sounds it is not. You must have a vision from an engineers standpoint to understand where the underlying problem is and is why the DIY crap goes to the way side sooner than later.
I love the computer printer analogy I may use that someday.
Quoted From jacobnbr1:
I’m not going to load a pic because this web sight sucks for loading images and pics but check fuse f/inj in the power distribution block and confirm it is not blown.
If you have a DSO you can place your low amps probe there and look at all six of them at the same time to find out if there is a problem in the ramp/saturation, You can trigger of number one secondary ignition to reference the aid and discovery of the problem.
As a work around the Pink wire at each injector plug should have voltage with the key in the on position.
You can do a manual scratch test to this system by using a test light to ground and t-pinning the the negative side of the injector and momentarily touch the tip of the test light to the t-pin should activate the injector but this is not testing the PCM driver but only the injector.
That is about as basic as I can make it for the DIY guy and doesn’t touch any on circuit integrity which I might add is every ones worst nightmare and becoming the most common problem found in todays modern shops.
Quoted From jacobnbr1:
I’m not going to load a pic because this web sight sucks for loading images and pics but check fuse f/inj in the power distribution block and confirm it is not blown.
If you have a DSO you can place your low amps probe there and look at all six of them at the same time to find out if there is a problem in the ramp/saturation, You can trigger of number one secondary ignition to reference the aid and discovery of the problem.
As a work around the Pink wire at each injector plug should have voltage with the key in the on position.
You can do a manual scratch test to this system by using a test light to ground and t-pinning the the negative side of the injector and momentarily touch the tip of the test light to the t-pin should activate the injector but this is not testing the PCM driver but only the injector.
That is about as basic as I can make it for the DIY guy and doesn’t touch any on circuit integrity which I might add is every ones worst nightmare and becoming the most common problem found in todays modern shops.
Ho Jacob,
Finally I was able to work on the Buick century with no fire issue. I tested all six injectors with a multimeter and they are all fine. The reading was 12.2 ohms for all 6. But there is no power in the connector. I connected noid light and turned the ignition on, I tested three connectors two on bank A and one on B. none the noid light lit, So this means it is narrowed down to the wiring between the fuel inectors and PCM or PCM. So this may mean a shorted out connector wire or the PCM. Can you direct me further? how to test the wires and how tell which ( pink I think) that is correct wire from the PCM. How would you replace the wire between the fuel unjector and the PCM?
Thanks alot
Fred
You simply need to locate a wiring diagram for your vehicle for the fuel injectors and start to diagnose from there.
Did you use the free Chiton’s online that another member posted in the ‘How To..” section to see if any wiring diagrams are available there?
ive had this happen to me before and it was the ground wire for the ground on the battery it had came loose
Many times fuel injectors have their own power feed so be sure you checked all of your fueses both under the hood and under the dash. Also sometimes they run an amplifier or module in the power circuit of the fuel injectors, the computer just switches the ground so if you don’t have any power going to them that’s where I might start looking but the best course of action would be to dig up a wiring diagram to see how they are wired in and find out where they are getting their power and ground from and check those circuits to find the location of the fault.
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