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97 Olds Bravada misfire p0300 p0304

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  • #593879
    Anthony BuerkAnthony Buerk
    Participant

      A month ago my 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada was running great. Then it started idling rough out of nowhere and wouldn’t start at all; all in one day. So to start with I ended up determining that my starter was bad (coincidentally) at the same time as the rough idle. So I replaced the starter. Then I did a complete tune up, plugs, wires, cap, button, air filter, oil change… All things I considered normal and needed done anyways.

      After the tune up I still had a rough idle.

      Finally I got a check engine light the next day.
      Got it scanned – and got p0300 code.

      So I tried replacing cap and button to ensure I hadn’t received a bad one from the parts store.

      After replacing the cap, and button for a second time and driving a while – No Change.

      So I figured my options were – Distributor, Mass Air Flow Censor, ICM and or a lot of the normal run down associated with only a p0300 (random multiple misfire)code.

      So I replaced the MAF (Mass Air Flow)
      No Change

      After another vehicle scan I was now getting a p0304 code.
      In the mean time I have also then realized I did not have overdrive any more.
      This must have started at the same time as the misfire issue because prior to the misfire I did have OD for a fact.

      So a friend of mine who is a transmission rebuilder got his Genisis scanner and we went for a ride. I could now see that my problem was indeed in cylinder 4. He also told me that I wasn’t getting “lock-out” and that the no OD problem may be because of whatever was going on with my misfire. He said get the misfire right first then we would see if that changed anything and look at it again if I still had no OD.

      So for my next step I went and got a inline spark tester.
      I was gettting fire on cylinder 4

      So I got a compression tester.
      I only got 80-85 PSI on cylinder 4 when I tested it.

      The spark plug I pulled on cylinder 4 was really white hot looking like it is burning lean by the way and this was a plug that had been in there only 2 weeks or so since the tune up.

      I then put a new plug gapped correctly (0.60)in cylinder 4.
      After about 20 minutes of driving the check engine light went off, the vehicle felt like it smoothed out from the rough idle, and then OD (overdrive) or lockout as my Transmission friend called it, did indeed come back.

      So my question is,…

      Is this only temporary?
      I feel like the pressure in cylinder 4 at 80-85 PSI wasn’t correct.
      and the only reason it seems to be o.k. at the moment is because of the new plug.
      I feel like after the new plug gets hot/ or burns lean again, it will return to a misfire.
      Would it be worth it to go ahead and do a dry and wet compression test still on all cylinders and see where I land or should I ride it out a few days and see if the misfire returns?

      I know this was long but I did not want to leave anything out.
      Thanks for any help and advise!

    Viewing 10 replies - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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    • #593881
      WayneWayne
      Participant

        Is this only temporary?
        I feel like the pressure in cylinder 4 at 80-85 PSI wasn’t correct.
        Would it be worth it to go ahead and do a dry and wet compression test still on all cylinders and see where I land

        Not sure, you’d have to verify if a mechanical issue truly exists or not.
        What were the others in relation to #4’s 80-85 reading?
        Yes, I would, just to try to verify if it was a testing error, perhaps the plug wasn’t seated, etc, as apposed to an issue, which this should lead you in the direction of it. Should it still be low, a leak-down test would probably next on the list depending on if the results are close to the same or not.

        #593883
        Anthony BuerkAnthony Buerk
        Participant

          Well I was being lazy yesterday and only tested cylinder 4. Then I put in the new plug. So I figure I would test the other cylinders on Tuesday (tomorrow) when I have more time. Only to be surprised by the vehicle smoothing out and getting OD again as well as the check engine light going off. I will test the other tomorrow and get back. Thanks!

          #594117
          EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
          Keymaster

            That sounds pretty low for a compression reading. Are you sure you did the test correctly? You have to hold the throttle open when you do the test. If not, you won’t get a proper reading. As for your description of the plug, if it had a white chalky coating on it, that means it’s likely burning oil. If that’s the case, your misfire could be the result of a mechanical issue. If that’s the case, you would need to address that to get rid of the misfire issue.

            More info on solving performance issues here.

            http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

            Good luck and keep us posted.

            #594186
            BillBill
            Participant

              I suspect you had a defective spark plug or you cracked it when installing. It happens. As long as it’s running smoothly without the MIL light on I would move on to something enjoyable.

              #594199
              Lorrin BarthLorrin Barth
              Participant

                I agree with wysetech. Some of my better repairs have had in the middle of the job – and then a miracle occurred. In other words, it was fixed and I didn’t know why.

                #594417
                Anthony BuerkAnthony Buerk
                Participant

                  Well I tested the other cylinders today and the compression is coming out the same on all cylinders. I am starting to think the compression guage is off. I rented it from autozone. I followed @ericthecarguy video on youtube and did have the throttle pushed while doing the test. Also the new new plug is also building a nice white on it already but no check engine light again yet. I don’t think I am burning off any oil.

                  #594513
                  EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                  Keymaster

                    If there’s on CEL there’s no CEL. Keep us posted if things change.

                    #596165
                    Anthony BuerkAnthony Buerk
                    Participant

                      On this Bravada I pulled the fuel pump relay fuse (located in the glove box) to keep the vehicle from turning over during my compression check. Could this have effected the compression? Would just pulling the wire going to the single coil from the distributor have been sufficient?

                      I am re- inquiring on this subject because just a little over a week now since I put a new plug in cylinder #4 I again have the CEL and misfire on that cylinder. I am considering redoing the compression check and although I have watched ETCG video on youtube and how to do this I wanted to be sure.

                      #596210
                      John HugonJohn Hugon
                      Participant

                        Removing the fuel pump fuse will not affect engine compression readings.

                        The Fuel System has to be disabled by disconnecting the fuel injector ‘Spider’ assembly.The Ignition System has to be disabled by disconnecting the Ignition Coil or the Ignition Module.

                        #596220
                        LincolnLincoln
                        Participant

                          Your best bet is to move on the leak down test and check for cylinder leakage past the rings, valves, or head gasket. Your compression should definitely be significantly higher. Autozone sells a compression gauge for about 25 dollars made by actron and it never hurts to have one. I take one along everytime I go look at a car to buy, running or not.

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