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Planning to help out my sister-in-law. She has a ’97 Honda Odyssey that lost the timing belt. A friend of hers replaced the belt for her and got the car running but it was running very rough. He did a compression check and found no compression on #3 (4 cylinder – F22 I think).
I talked with him – sounds like he knows what he’s doing so assuming timing belt was done right. So thinking next steps are:
a) drain oil to see if bits of metal indicating piston hole
b) pull head to see if there’s a bent valveMake sense?
I looked at her car today. Assuming I’ll need to pull the head, can I get at the bottom row of intake bolts from underneath? And will I save work by unbolting the intake from the head or is it easier to remove the head with the intake still attached?
Planning to do the work on Friday so appreciate any tips before then.
Thx, Rob
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ya sounds like something got bent when the timing belt broke. i think that its a better plan of attack to go for the top of the engine as pistons are much stronger than valves. keep us informed
Its more than likely got bent valves, possibly more than one. I would remove the head and remove the rocker shafts to close all the valves. Squirt water into each port and watch for drips out of the valves. It may be a better idea to take the head to a machine shop and have them rebuild it.
As far as removal, I usually try to leave the manifold attached if possible. Lemme check the service procedure in the morning and see if they mention removal.
Thanks both. Bent valve(s) was my 1st guess, just thought checking some oil from the pan would be easier/quicker and if there is metal in it I’d save some time because if it is the bottom end, I’d probably look for a replacement motor rather than rebuild it.
Looking forward to the info. She got a Chilton’s and it calls for removing just about everything – throttle body, accelerator & cruise cables, fuel rail, all the emissions hoses/tubes… about the only thing I don’t recall it calling for is separating the upper and lower intake halves. I’m hoping I can get away with leaving most of that connected and still get the head off.
Quick question… almost all of my limited experience is on little British cars and they’re all stick shifts. I went ahead and started removing some parts on this Honda – including the alternator so battery is disconnected. Is there a trick to shift it into neutral w/o any electrical power or do I need to tape up the alternator hot lead and reconnect the battery to get it out of park and into neutral?
If you put the key in the on position engine off.
foot on the brake.you should be able to put it in
neutral.There must be some other trick. Key in any position, foot on brake, shifter still locked. I think think the brake switch must need power to be recognized.
Is there a “shift release” cover near the shifter? Its usually a cover you pry up then there is a tab underneath you push down with the key or screwdriver to shift without any power. Other wise you will need to manually shift via the shift cable on the trans end.
I was swamped at work and didnt remember to check on your manifold but only remove it if you have to. There should be some coolant hoses going from the manifold to the coolant crossover pipe that connects the tstat to the water pump. Just be careful and take your time. In my experience its easier to remove heads with the manifolds connected because it gives you something else to grab onto 🙂
Well, change in plans… I took Friday off to work on the car and let my kids hang out ith their cousins, but the day before I found out my sister in law decided to donate the car as is and get a replacement vehicle. Probably not a bad decision as the difference in tax write off vs what she could sell the car for less the parts to fix wasn’t that much. (Not only that but I don’t think she’s been changing the oil regularly because the slime and varnish on the rocker assembly was about 1/4″ thick so who knows how long it’d have been till the next major repair). But, I’m kind of bummed at the same time because I was really curious to see how bad he damage was (or wasn’t).
So, instead I got the exhaust on my MG reworked (it kept pulling loose on the passenger side) and replaced the belts on my wife’s Highlander. Her belts were only about 4 or 5 years old (75k miles maybe) but they were so dry they were cracking when I squeezed them. Not sure if they were cheap replacements or if that’s just due to the TX temps but I put Gates belts on.
Now I just have to change the brake pads on my son’s car (with him so he’ll learn) and change the oil on my MG and the cars should be good for a while again.
Oh yeah — I still need to do my taxes before the 15th too. I keep trying to forget that!!
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