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Topic
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Wife’s daily driver – 97 Honda Civic DX, 210,000 miles, oil change was done 1st week in August at a Econo Lube and Tune.
Issues she says she has lately-
-squeaking brakes in the front. (drove it cant duplicate what she hears, and brake pads still good with plenty left)
-oil needs changed. ( doing that now and discovered dip stick is missing)
-when car is warm, and she comes to a stop, bogs down almost to point of dieing but accelerates fine and drives fine other then when stopped. ( havent been able to duplicate it while im driving it , but have been in the car when its happened.)
Here is the potential issue. When i pulled the air filter to check it , i noticed a small amount of fluid, feels like oil, kinda smells like gas. Its comes from the hose that runs between the top of the valve cover to the filter box. Ill attach a pic if it lets me.
Is this normal?
What could be causing this to happen?
Could this be the cause of her bogging down at stops after warm?
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
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Replies
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No, oil there isn’t normal.
Personally, I’d check PCV valve to see if that’s gummed up and you might not be getting a bit of blow-by as a result.
Also check MAF sensor and look for vacuum leaks; both of those can cause really strange idles and such.
-Hinoki
Thanks Hinoki. I checked the PCV valve , pain in the ass to get too seeing i already did the oil change. It was gummed up. I would shake it and barely hear anything clicking. Put a new one in , changed her spark plugs, oil change with new dipstick, new air filter. Was waiting to reply to give it time and see how it turned out. She says its been running great and no bog down issues while at a stop anymore. At least for now. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.
Side note: i have a Chiltons for her car and it shows the PCV valve at the top of the valve cover, right were the hose connects from the filter box. Ummm , its down by the oil filter under the throttle body Mr. Chilton. LOL! :pinch:Okay. Ran great until this morning. Wife called said that the car was shaking really bad and the check engine light was on and flashing. I pulled 4 codes- P0301, P0302,P1300, P1399. She made it home, so i pulled cyc. 1 spark plug wire while running, no change in idel, but before i could put it back in and move to the next one the car died. Will not start. Turns over well but no start. spark plug tester shows no spark on any wire. Open the distributor cap and check with my light tester the ignition coil. Ground the tester and put the probe on the (-) terminal on the ignition coil. Have the wife turn the car on. Tester lights up, have her turn the car over, tester starts to blink then stops while the car is turning over. Then the tester burns up in my hand, smoke and all coming out the tester. With the key still in the on position i was getting good sparking on that (-) terminal at the ignition coil. Is it possible that the ignition control module is sending to much voltage to the ignition coil? Is the ICM the issue here?
That oil happens when the engine gets worn. If you pull the plugs and see a tan crust on them, the engine is burning oil.
As for the idle problem, it may be the IAC valve. In fact just last week I fixed a Civic of the same vintage with that very problem. More info on solving idle problems here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
As for your no start, check to see if the coil is giving spark. Crank the engine while holding your tester near the end of the coil terminal (make sure it’s grounded). If you have spark there, then the problem is the cap and rotor. I recommend using quality parts. I’ve seen cheap crap cause issues. Beck Arnley would be a good choice in my opinion. If you don’t see spark at the coil, then you likely have a bad coil since you’ve proven that it’s getting a signal to fire from the ICM.
More info on no starts here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks Eric. I took the throttle body off and took apart the IACV. Was pretty gunked up in there. Didnt have much play when i would rotate it. Gave it a good cleaning. Im hoping it is not suppose to spin 360 degrees? Mine was only spinning about half way, back and forth. Got it back together and ended up replacing the spark plug wires. Cyc. 1 and 2 , the inside stuck to the spark plug when i pulled them out. Did a compression check just incase. 155-165 dry on all 4 and 175-180 wet on all 4. The reason i did that was 2 of the original codes were P0301, P0302, and i wanted to rule out a bad head casket between the two cyc. Car is running real good now. I have it running now for close to 15 mins and no idle issues. Let it run for the first 5 with the radiator cap off to bleed any air out from taking the IACV off. Thanks alot fellas for all the help. Thanks Eric again, and great video on idle problems.
I might be a little late and seems the car is running good wich is great. Seen a few things you said and have found a few statements with error. I have a 99 civic which had a blown head gasket and was causing random over heating ( different from your issues) but performed the same test as far as compression. Found all cylinders had normal compression as well. Posted here and all said air in the coolant. It was a bad head gasket. 2,3,4 were leaking. Do a block test if you want to check a head gasket, faiel immeately on mine. Also Eric is right as far as aftermarket parts. After wasting thousands I only go to honda for parts. I don’t do this with my other cars, but with that honda 👿 despicably never use any ignition parts other than Honda or guarantee you will regret
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