- This topic has 58 replies, 13 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 7 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
you will need to see whats missing. fuel or spark. as for communication check to see that your battery is good and the connections are
clean and tight. either your scanner has a problem or the computer. recheck your scanner connection.Battery tested good.
Just tried it and ran 5 minutes then just died. I was able to start right back up and ran 30 seconds then died. Then won’t start unless waiting a while, no smell of fumes. I hear fuel pump, checked fuse and pump relay.I will clean connections now and make sure they are tight and see if this helps and report back. Thanks.
New OBDII Scanner, hooked up right under the steering wheel tuned to on position and that is when it said cannot communicate. CORRECTION: The only lights are on are Brake light which is due to emergency brake issue and ABS brake light, which started when the lightning hit. Maybe blew out those sensors.
Wow I haven’t heard of that one. I would first check the fuses, ALL of the fuses and if you don’t find any that are blown then you might need to replace the PCM, the lightning could have damaged it, the ‘no communication’ is not a good sign it means the PCM may not be powering up or it could be damaged.
Wierdly, a friend of mine was driving on the freeway, and lightning struck her car, and everything stopped working immediately. It was nearly new at the time. I’m not sure how she did this, but it was covered under warranty. If I translated what she was telling me right (she’s not a car person) they had to replace the PCM among other things. Just putting that out there. Although I wouldn’t think your truck would start at all if the PCM was toast.
+1 on checking the fuses as well as to see if your missing spark or fuel. Also you should have 12v on pin 16 of the DLC.
Here is the no start basics video made by Eric-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539 … 5a9dcaVDvj
Sometimes circumstances cloud our judgment and the answer was the simplest in front of us the whole time.
Well done college man! I noticed the (+) connection to the battery terminal moved when wiggling it. Tightened and it ran uninterrupted. I think that gott’er.
Thanks for the replies all!el_crab
Glad you got er fixed El_Crab, its like Eric says alot of automotive electrical issues start at the battery.
Yea it is the simple things that often get us. Thanks very much for posting the fix it will go on to help others.
Ok, not so fast. Truck still stalling. I thought it was fixed cause it lasted longer. Now I see, no change. Another symptom is I have a battery on it a few months old and still dies and needs charging. Alternator check was good too. not sure why this still stalling. Sorry for the late update. Should I reopen through another post?
Lets keep the post going. I would suggest having the alternator and battery load tested at an auto store.
If the charging system does not have the proper voltage to run all the electronics the vehicle will stall.
I gave you some great videos to help in your diagnostic C8-)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QiKyjWW … plpp_video battery load test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuumBVz6 … plpp_video check a charge system
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTGz0PKI … plpp_video alternator
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj0 … plpp_video paraistic draw
Excellent, thanks for the videos. I will pick up there and update after I step through them and check it out.
Ok, my dad said the battery was a few months old. Removing this assumption and watching the videos, the volt meter reads 12.0-12.2 and running 14.0(+), turn on everything and it says 13.0(+). So that told me alternator looks ok since it is charging. Pulled battery and cant get a reading above 12.0. Taking it down to get it tested and or replaced. Lets hope it is that easy.
😉
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.