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before you go taking the tps out. check you IAC is working correctly. that should be
maintaining your idle when a load gets put on the engine. try tapping on it with the
handle of a screw driver to see if the idle changes. if it does replace the IAC. does the
car idle normal besides that? Have you adjust the factory set idle screw?unfortunally my IAC is untappable due to being under the intake of all places.. but with the car running and the tps unplugged their is no change in idle but when the map sensor is unplugged the car will stall which is how i got a CEL for tps because the map was covering for the tps so-to-speak and no i havnt personally.
Don’t mess with the TPS as I’m sure that isn’t your problem however if you’re intent on changing it you will need to replace the throttle body as it is not sold separately and was sealed with tamper proof rivets so it’s not adjustable either. To help you on your quest here is my ‘idle speech’.
By suggestion I’m going to post my idle speech along with a couple of video links that I hope will help if your having problems with your Honda’s idle. First I’ll give you the link to the Solving Honda Idle Problems video, please remember that adjusting the FITV is the LAST step in the process and you need to back it off at least 1/2 turn after it bottoms out or it will not start properly when cold.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblYThe Bleeding a Cooling System Videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUp … =relmfuThe video response to the Honda Idle videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMj … onseLastly here is the “Idle Speech”There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of a 4 cylinder engine however here are some things to start with.First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.I hope this info is helpful as I get a TON of questions about Honda idle problems, thanks for reading.I’ll add one more thing, if there is a problem with the AC system or the compressor itself it’s possible that it’s putting too much of a load on the engine causing the idle problem. You have MANY things to check before condemning the TPS which hardly ever go bad on Hondas BTW.
yea i got a multimeter and it may be possible someone adjusted the bottom end idle because its reading .546 closed and 4.5 WOT
@Eric, That seems plausible.
I noticed last summer a chirping noise from what I believe is the belt pulley on the a/c compressor for my own Civic. A noise from a pulley area doesn’t necessarily mean bad pulley, however…any tips there if those pulleys o
Quoted From lnknprkfn312@hotmail.com:
yea i got a multimeter and it may be possible someone adjusted the bottom end idle because its reading .546 closed and 4.5 WOT
The TPS is riveted on and cannot be adjusted as a result, regardless your readings are correct which would indicate the TPS is not the issue.
welp.. this topic has came to a end for me, i didnt have a chance to find out what was wrong but i was planning on replacing wires, cap and rotor, along with pcv to genuine honda luckily for me i didnt change the oil today and just washed it instead. beucase i was taking my bro to his friends when about a guy in a jeep decides to turn in front of me and screws up about half of the driver side of my car managing to bend my roof support so its now totaled and i get to figure out how im going to get around from now on since i got to work tomorrow.. so luckily it was only a 1,500- loss but sadly i got to figure out how im going to get a car..
nope and this is what bad news looks like btw.
Before:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa20 … 397084.jpgAfter:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa20 … 50_436.jpgQuoted From lnknprkfn312@hotmail.com:
nope and this is what bad news looks like btw.
Before:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa20 … 397084.jpgAfter:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa20 … 50_436.jpgAt least your ok. Your vehicle gave its life saving yours…
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