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I recently replaced a timing belt on a 97 Accord as well using Eric’s video. I did not use his method for crank bolt removal. I instead used the removal tool that slips over the bolt and then you use a breaker bar with the tool. See “Tools” section on this site for details. My crank bolt was hard to remove at first as well. I had to use a 5 ft. handle from a floor jack slipped over my breaker bar. Also used a few extensions such that the breaker bar cleared the fender well. Used a jack stand to support the extensions. It took some effort but it did come loose after what I described. Hope this helps..
First off I will assume you have the special tool for holding the crank pulley. that said spray the bolt with pbblasters penetrant. let it soak for a good while . now I highly recommend using impact extensions and an impact grade socket for removal… use ” 1 ” long impact extension if possible ( 1/2 inch drive ) just long enough to clear the suspension components , next place a jack stand under the extension right near the breaker bar ( the jack stand will act like a fulcrum ) with the breaker bar attached to the extension give it a try. perhaps a two foot pipe isnt quite long enough so use a longer one if nessessary. it is problems like this that convinced me to buy a 40″ long by 3/4″ drive breaker bar ( with this bar and my 270 lb body there has been nothing that needed a cheater pipe- just got to love ” leverage ” ) keep us posted as to your progress.
Quoted From fitone:
I recently replaced a timing belt on a 97 Accord as well using Eric’s video. I did not use his method for crank bolt removal. I instead used the removal tool that slips over the bolt and then you use a breaker bar with the tool. See “Tools” section on this site for details. My crank bolt was hard to remove at first as well. I had to use a 5 ft. handle from a floor jack slipped over my breaker bar. Also used a few extensions such that the breaker bar cleared the fender well. Used a jack stand to support the extensions. It took some effort but it did come loose after what I described. Hope this helps..
We must have been posting at the same time… I offered the same advice… I am just one slow slow typer so ya beat me to the punch LOL .
I recently had to remove the crank pulley on a Generation 1 Honda CRV, and it completely resisted my electric 1/2 inch impact. It was the only time since buying this impact wrench that it has been defeated.
I second all the above advice with use of impact extensions and socket, with the proper crank pulley holding tool, and fully support of the extensions at the “bar” end. From there it is just a matter of muscle.
In my case the use of any type of penetration oil would have been 100% useless. The sealing effect of the washer under the bolt head was perfect, and nothing would have soaked through. The 19mm bolt’s threads were factory new, and this is after 12y of Canadian salt road driving. Re-installation included a dab of antiseize on the washer and threads.
the special crankshaft holding tool is on sale at amazon for $15…free shipping…..if you purchase eric”s 1990-2002 timing belt replacement video, he will show you a fastener to fastener procedure, and save you $ by not having to purchase the special tool……put some elbow grease into it…great investment…..
I think using 4 to 5 feet of lever arm is the key to removing the crank bolt. I have seen some YouTube videos that applied heat to the bolt first and then used the methods that have been offered. If you are using quality tools I would not be to concerned about damaging the breaker bar. Also not sure if an O’Reilys Auto Parts is in your area, but I rented the crank bolt removal tool from them. I think AutoZone offers it as well. Let us know how this turns out..
Quoted From trinidee:
My sugesstion would be to use a breaker bar, the correct socket, disconnect the main spark ignition so that the car doesnt fire and use the starter to turn the engine over. Crank over the engine with small quarter of a second turns. You must be careful because there is a lot of pressure on that breaker bar when you turn the engine over. Remember the engine turns over clockwise. Maybe Eric’s video gives a better description of what we are talking about.
this engine turns counter-clockwise so this will only tighten it more……use the breaker bar set-up and a 5 ft breaker bar for leverage….off she comes….
Quoted From hondaslave1342:
this engine turns counter-clockwise so this will only tighten it more……use the breaker bar set-up and a 5 ft breaker bar for leverage….off she comes….
ok counterclockwise got it
Ok I used the extension to get the breaker bar past the fender and put a 4 ft pipe on the end of the 2 ft breaker bar and with some persistent effort it eventually broke free. I used a jack stand under the extension to support it as close to the breaker bar as possible. Thanks everyone for the suggestions I really appreciate it!
Awesome, glad to hear that you got that crank bolt removed. The rest of job should hopefully go smooth.
Next time don’t use the extension as it eats up the torque that you are trying to apply because the extension will twist before the fastener does. Those bolts can be a pain but as suggested the special tool and a breaker bar with a pipe on it are your best hope. Thanks for your update it’s always good to know a fix.
Thanks for the advice everyone. It gives me something to try today. I’ll keep you posted of what works. My biggest concern was how much force can I could put on a 24″ breaker bar without it “breaking”. It sounds like I don’t need to be too concerned about that.
My sugesstion would be to use a breaker bar, the correct socket, disconnect the main spark ignition so that the car doesnt fire and use the starter to turn the engine over. Crank over the engine with small quarter of a second turns. You must be careful because there is a lot of pressure on that breaker bar when you turn the engine over. Remember the engine turns over clockwise. Maybe Eric’s video gives a better description of what we are talking about.
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