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I brought a 96′ suzuki sidekick JX Sport 1.8L 5-speed Manual Transmission this 2012 spring.
Mileage and overall condition are ok.
the ex-owner of this car only drove it between country and town in winter and have settled it for a year before sale.The symptom:
1. When I get into Reverse Gear, it always has noise like gears scratching each other (grinding), even if I push the clutch pedal correctly and the car is NOT moving. (I know usually there is no synchronizer on Reverse Gear. So the car should be completely stopped when shifting to Reverse Gear)As getting familiar with this car, I tried shifting 3rd Gear first and then quickly shifting to Reverse Gear, I have 50% time without significant grinding noise.
2. When I push the clutch pedal all the way down (completely) and totally release brake, the car would NOT move on a flat surface. When I release clutch pedal a little bit (15% of the total range) like a semi-linkage of hill-start, the car could move.
I think that means semi-linkage point of my clutch is very low.
3. (car is NOT moving) When I push the clutch pedal completely for more than 10 seconds and stay depressing it, and shift into a forward gear, and then shift back to Neutal, I could hear sound like gears are running when in Neutal and no gear-running sound when in other gears.
I think that shifting to a forward gear could force all the gear stop running when car is not moving, because the output shaft is not running at that time. According to my trail above, it seems the gears are still running. I guess the clutch might be not disengaged completely.
4. Before I start the car, it is easy to get into any gear; after I start the car, it’s much heavier and harder to get into gear, especially 1st and 2nd gear.
Other Inspections:
1. clutch hydraulic reservoir is full.
2. Based on my driving this car, the clutch plate is probably ok. I half engage the clutch in order to start on a hill, I fell the out power is not weak.Other opinions:
a guy in suzuki-forum.com told me it seems no external leaking based on full hydraulic reservoir, but it could be internal leaking between master and slave cylinder.Note that: the 1.8 Sidekick Sport is a different vehicle to the 1.6 Sidekick. lots of different design.
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Thanks everyone for your input!
Eric, my service manual doesn’t state anything about adjustment, only the tolerances it should be within. Otherwise, replace clutch arm or master cilinder.
By the way, when I depress the pedal, there’s about 2.5cm of freeplay before I feel it become harder, and that’s within the tolerance according to the manual (1.5cm-2.5cm tolerance). When I release the clutch, the car starts to move with the pedal about 3cm off the floor, so in that aspect I think it’s ok.
From what I’ve been chatting with other people, the clutch itself may be the problem. It’s 210k km (130k miles), so I guess it already lasted it’s time.
But the strange thing is, my clutch doesn’t slip nothing. I mean, I start to move on a 35º incline and it moves perfect. Same for the 5th gear, pedal to the floor test. Is it possible that the clutch is worn out to the point that it doesn’t disengage but doesn’t slip either?
Clutch kits for my car are not expensive, but it has a dual mass flywheel to add to the fun, so my wallet is going to get raped… :unsure: I don’t know when I can do this job, since I still have to sell my Jeep to get the money… but I will for sure let you know about updates!
Thank you very much again to all of you, you’ve been really helpful! 🙂
Up to the point where you said you had a dual mass flywheel I was going to say linkage even though you say it’s in spec. As you pointed out you don’t have a slipping problem and that would be indicative of a clutch issue. A shifting issue like you describe is a release issue most times. With a dual mass set up however it may be that it’s not initialized properly. If that’s the case it won’t release properly and possibly cause the problem that you’re having. Since you’ve already addressed the hydraulics then it may be time to remove the transmission and get a look at everything.
Thanks Eric! As soon as I get the money I will look into it and let you all know what’s the issue! Take care! 😉
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=39910]Up to the point where you said you had a dual mass flywheel I was going to say linkage even though you say it’s in spec. As you pointed out you don’t have a slipping problem and that would be indicative of a clutch issue. A shifting issue like you describe is a release issue most times. With a dual mass set up however it may be that it’s not initialized properly. If that’s the case it won’t release properly and possibly cause the problem that you’re having. Since you’ve already addressed the hydraulics then it may be time to remove the transmission and get a look at everything.[/quote]
Mine might not be hydraulics issue. if so, sad~~~. I check the stroke of the slave cylinder, and it looks like it met magic 3/4 inch stroke but I haven’t got equipment to jack my car and measure the stroke of slave cylinder (3/4 inch is a unconfirmed rumor, but lost of single proofs). When I told my friend hold the clutch pedal for a minutes, slave cylinder doesn’t creep back. I think that is the proof of good hydraulics.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64fHmFACcSA[/video]
If it was mine, I would look into converting the flywheel/clutch to a conventional set up. I haven’t had one of these dual mass set ups in my hands yet, but they look like an over complicated mess. I understand why they put them in, but they seem to be pron to failure. My understanding is you have to replace all the parts including the flywheel anyway. Maybe someone makes a conversion kit for your truck. One of my neighbors converted his Dodge ram diesel with a kit he got from a company called Fleet Pride.
I would also check your bell housing alignment while it’s apart. Ii doesn’t take long to check.[quote=”roywrench22″ post=40270]If it was mine, I would look into converting the flywheel/clutch to a conventional set up. I haven’t had one of these dual mass set ups in my hands yet, but they look like an over complicated mess. I understand why they put them in, but they seem to be pron to failure. My understanding is you have to replace all the parts including the flywheel anyway. Maybe someone makes a conversion kit for your truck. One of my neighbors converted his Dodge ram diesel with a kit he got from a company called Fleet Pride.
I would also check your bell housing alignment while it’s apart. Ii doesn’t take long to check.[/quote]I suspect the pilot bearing most. But, whatever failed in bell-housing or transy, it cost a lot of money to take the them out. I bought it as serval hundred bucks and it’s KBB value is around $26k.
You can’t keep driving it grinding your syncros like that without damaging your trans. Maybe you could pull it out yourself and take a look. You don’t need anything except jack stands, basic hand tools, and maybe a buddy to help you lift the heavy parts. It doesn’t cost anything but time to look. Then you’ll know what parts to buy. Maybe you’ll get lucky and find you just need to clean up some rust or something. It looks like there’s plenty of help here if you get into trouble.
I searched single mass flywheels, but it appears that there isn’t any available for my car… but if the new dial mass lasts another 200k km, I’ll be happy. If all goes to plan in January I’ll have the Jeep sold and the funds to repair the Suzuki, which has been sitting in the garage,a and I’ll report then! Thanks for your input everyone!
There’s nothing wrong with the dual mass pressure plate. You just need to set it up correctly. Good luck selling the Jeep and keep us posted.
Thanks Eric! 🙂
I’ll buy a Honda CRX MKII 1.6i16 (with the DOHC D16z5) too as a fun weekend car, can’t wait! 😛
I thought on bumping this thread just to give you guys an update. The Suzuki hasn’t been touched yet, since it is my mothers and not mine, she won’t let me pay the repair nor she’s going to fix it soon. Oh well!
I also bought said CRX. Fantastic car, had to replace a few stuff, but hey, I love wrenching! 😛 This weekend I’m going to rebuild the brake master cilinder and install braided brake lines, since my pedal began to go soft a few weeks after I changed the (completely rotten) brake fluid.
Great. enjoy the car. The stainless braided lines are the way
to go.Gets rid of the soft brake fade pedal. Nice brake upgrade. 🙂Hey guys! I know that this was buried under here, but I solved my problem with the rough shifting.
Turns out that poor quality oil can really ruin your transmission! I put some Mobil stuff in there 2 months ago and so far the shifting is 90% better!
Thanks everyone for your help! 😀
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