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Greetings, Comrades.
I have a 96 Accord coupe 2.2L EX, manual transmission.
I recently replaced the transmission.All the gears work fine and shifting is smooth, but I find that when in first gear I must maintain the rpm or increase it. If I raise and then lower the rpm, that is, apply the throttle then ease up, say in a parking lot, it will pop out of gear. When it pops out of gear there is a course rubbing sound, not the typical grinding of gears mind you, as though the shift fork has not mounted the synchro properly.
I can prevent it from slipping by lightly resting my hand on the shifter. When I do so, I don’t feel it kicking.
There is no problem during a typical first to second gear transition, where the rpm steadily increases till the clutch is disengaged.While in second gear, although it does not pop out, I observe that the shifter kicks back and forth consistent with the application of the throttle. I can feel this one kick.
All other gears are fine.
I am kindly asking for any assistance. I am going to break it down again next week to have a fresh look. Below I bullet a few things that occur to me.
1. Could my shifter cables need adjusting?
2. I replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate as well. Could the damper springs in the new disk be of incorrect tension and could that translate down the line in some way?
3.I could not get the snap ring to seat in the groove of the top bearing of the countershaft assembly, despite dropping and hammering. I reluctantly proceeded with the rebuild, however, when one forum advised that it will snap into place once the car is driven. Is this the culprit?Please help if you can.
Best
Noel
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What could be happening is the counter shaft is wobbling from not being
locked in and wobbling the shifter out of gear.My biggest fear. Thanks, Mobil 1.
That snap ring needed less than a mm of travel to seat properly, but It would not budge. I’ll make sure next time.One more thing, can you recommend a gasket maker?
Thanks for your time.
Best
NoelGreetings Everyone,
About four weeks ago I asked for help with a jerking shifter. Please see previous posts if you feel like it.
Mobile 1 was kind enough to suggest that I make sure the countershaft snap ring is seated properly to prevent it from wobbling.
I performed the rebuild; snap ring was seated.The car worked fine for about 4 blocks then the problem emerged again. Identical symptoms.
One forum suggested that the problem could be compromised engine mounts. The argument is that the entire engine could be moving and kicking the fork off the synchro ring. I notice the shifter also kicks whenever I go over a speed bump.
Any credence to the engine mount argument?Thanks for your time.
Best
NoelThe shifter wobbling around while going over bumps kinda points to an engine/transmission mount issue. If the shifter moves around too while stepping on the gas and/or braking hard, it supports the mount theory.
With the engine cold and not running, grab the top of the engine and see if you can rock it back and forth easily. Dead mounts will allow the engine to move by a significant amount, say, a couple of inches or more. It’s a rough test, and not entirely conclusive, but the results are something to consider.
I have to say, I’m somewhat surprised by how often worn engine mounts come up as an issue. There used to be a time when engine mounts never gave trouble, except when you bolted way too much built-up Detroit iron to them.
Replaced with rebuilt,remanufactured or junk yard? Inspect the splines on the synchronizer sleeves, They are what keeps it from jumping out of gear.
I haven’t seen or driven the car so I can’t give a definite answer, but I had a civic that would do the same thing, except it would only actually jump out of 3rd gear. If you engine brake and then slam the throttle and the shifter moves more than an inch, I’d check those mounts.
Thanks, Evil-i.
I tried rocking the engine as suggested, but there was no movement. This week I am going to get at the engine and transmission mounts and double check they are torqued to spec.
Thanks for your time.Best
NoelHello, Skillz
I got it from a junk yard off a similar 96 Accord. I made sure to crack it open and inspect the gears, bearings and synchros.
As much as I could, I compared the synchro splines of the new transmission to the old core, which I held on to. I did this by I eyeballing it and carrying out the movements by directly manipulating the forks. I found them to be the same. Mind you, I used the old core as my control since it did not demonstrate this problem before it broke as a result of a different problem. Not ideal, but the best I can do.Thanks for your advice.
If I take it down again, I’ll triple check.Best
Noel
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