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96 civic just replaced cracked radiator, then 4 days later my son drove it very very hot till it quit running. replaced the cyl. head with an inspected and surfaced used head , new head gasket,bolts,thermostat,plugs,exhaust manifold(old one cracked). got it running and no leaks ,drove for 4 days then it starts to boil over into overflow and loose coolant then overheat Then overflow tube breaks off new rad. so order replacement rad. much better, but now filled and ran to check and upper hose ballooned up and blew out by clamp,but temp. gauge never went above normal. Also fan never kicked on. the car idle dropped real low till it died, never boiled over into res… could it be the water pump?????
please help me!!!! frusturated dad,
ShawnB
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I know this wouldnt explain the balloned radiator hose but are you absolutely sure that you got all the air out of the cooling system and while the head was off did you check and make sure that the block was not warped from over heating the car so bad
I dont believe the bleeder is necessary but you do what is in this video and the air will come out the top of the radiator
The car in this video does have a bleeder for coolant but i say just ignore that step
Yea follow the steps in erics video and you should get all the air out me personally i perform the procedure like 2 to 3 times and make sure the heater is blowing nice and hot before i call it good. And no a bleeder is not neccesary to bleed an engine just raise the rpms to like 1800 and hold it there as if theres air you will see alot of bubbles. You fo this with the heater on and fan on low
[quote=”shawnb” post=85126]how do you bleed the air out? There is no bleeder on the engine.[/quote]
Which engine do you have?
If your not sure how to tell, see this video:
Anytime you open a cooling system for service you MUST bleed the air from the cooling system when you complete the repairs. If not, you can experience the problems you described. In fact, I suspect over half the head gasket replacements were actually air in the cooling system and not a head gasket failure. In addition to the information posted above, you might find the information in this article helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
Good luck and keep us posted.
Tomorrow is Sunday back to the garage.I got a new water pump/timing belt kit to put on, but first I’m gonna do a compression check , starting to think the pressure build up might of blew the head gasket.If comp. test checks out ok then I’ll try bleeding the system again. I know I’m throwing parts at it but I just don’t want to accept that I have to replace the head gasket again.I should of ordered the spill-free rad. funnel but just keep hearing that i can get air out with out it. I couldn’t find a bleeder anywhere.Well I’ll update asap.
A compression check usually does not reveal a leaky head gasket, they often leak only at the peak of combustion pressure.
It looks like the rad and hose were damaged from the original overheat. Is the cooling fan working? Did you replace the rad cap with the new radiator? If the cap isn’t holding pressure it will boil easily.
comp. test showed 75 on cyl.3 and 130 on other cyls. definitely a leak. also did a pressure test on cooling system, found slow drop in pressure. I bought new head gasket. having trouble getting crank pulley off again, dont have special tool. Well thursday is next day i can work on it. Thanks for advice.
Now have new radiator, cap, upper hose,thermostat,and working on timing belt/water pump now.The fan tests good but it never came on during last two issues. So i got new fan switch to install.
Well its finally done. Replaced head gasket, timing belt,water pump and cooling fan switch. But most important I bled the heck out out of coolant system by squeezing the lower radiator hose while filling the system. I just want to thank everyone that took the time to whey in with advice on my issues and thank you etcg for this awesome site.
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