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Just to start out I did watch the no spark video by ETCC. I’m working on this friend’s car with a no star/ no spark issue and I originally found out it needs a cap and rotor to only find out that the coil wasn’t getting any power. I ended up picking up a used distributor along with a new igniter and now the coil will spark once really strongly and that’s it. one spark and no more, shut the car off wait a few and it will spark once again followed by nothing. Coil tested good, the video only goes as far to say that the igniter is most likely the problem, but what do I do next if it isn’t? the car has no CEL’s and the car has a jumper pack on the battery to ensure it always have full battery power.
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[quote=”Scobaru” post=177907]Just to start out I did watch the no spark video by ETCC. I’m working on this friend’s car with a no star/ no spark issue and I originally found out it needs a cap and rotor to only find out that the coil wasn’t getting any power. I ended up picking up a used distributor along with a new igniter and now the coil will spark once really strongly and that’s it. one spark and no more, shut the car off wait a few and it will spark once again followed by nothing. Coil tested good, the video only goes as far to say that the igniter is most likely the problem, but what do I do next if it isn’t? the car has no CEL’s and the car has a jumper pack on the battery to ensure it always have full battery power.[/quote]
If you watch the video. You can check the igniter and the coil separate to find what is faulty.
yeah the igniter is new, and he said “probably” so I guess I’ll have to swap out that thing again to see
[quote=”Scobaru” post=177949]yeah the igniter is new, and he said “probably” so I guess I’ll have to swap out that thing again to see[/quote]
If you do the test in the video you can test if its switching.
that’s sort of the issue, it does switch for the first few cranks then goes away. I swapped the new igniter for another one from Autozone and the same symptoms so I don’t believe its the ignitor. the issue must be further back into the system steming the ECU sending the signal to the ignitor
so I found the civic shop manual and found an ECU pin out for the civic I’m working on. According to the manual the TDC sensor is responsible for ignition during start up. So I’m guessing I should test the continuity between the ecu harness to the dizzy harness? if all the sensors are getting a signal to the ecu and the ecu doesn’t show a pulse to the ignitor would that mean the ecu is bad? I’m not exactly sure how the ecu goes about cycling to the ignitor does it ground something in the ecu?
In basic terms, the ECU receives the crankshaft signal and tells the ignitor to start working. ECU´s always supply ground, never a positive voltage. have you checked your crankshaft sensor ? It usually supplys its own voltage via induction.
update……replaced the ECU and it consistently has spark, but the car still doesn’t start, tried starting fluid and still the same. did a comp test and it had about 130-140 except one cylinder at 100 but I don’t see that being low enough to not start.
If you are using start gas and it still doesn´t even attempt to start, are you sure you got enough “juice” in that spark ? If there is spark and gas, it should at least cough a bit and attempt to run.
Yea get some cheap copper NGK/Denso plugs from Autozone put them in & try to fire it up or rent this tool:
Also get the battery checked, I don’t care if it has a “jumper pack” on it, those things can overcharge & prematurely wear out a battery not to mention batteries have an avg service life of 5 years.
[quote=”Scobaru” post=178211]is there a way to test for strength of a spark?[/quote]
see if this helps.
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems/no-spark
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