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Hey Eric this is the first time i would like your help, its a 96 honda civic ex d16y8 1.6L, 175000
SOMETIMES, crank/no start when been parked for some hours, and it has shut down on the freeway at 60MPH, started after a while on the side of the road,( when it shut downs or when it doesn’t start, (CRANK NOT START)the check engine light comes permanently and OBD2 codes can not be read ERROR1, and and electrical works.
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+1 on the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
You should have 12v on pin 16 on the DLC. If 12v is missing, then you will need to pull a wiring diagram for that DLC and go from there.
You need to test for spark and fuel while it is not starting. This will point you in the right direction.
heres a couple videos to help you. need to find out whats missing. Theres something going on there if your getting error.
can’t read. that means no communication. Is there a fuse for the diagnostic port? check the wiring from the ob2 port back.
. Also try jiggling the ignition switch with the car running. you may have a problem with the electrical portion of the switch.C8-)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539 … re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhh … ure=relmfu
i know its not the ignition switch because, the power to the lights and accessories is still on when the car shuts down on the freeway, but i will check for spark when it shuts down again i suppose, i only hope there is not a 18 wheeler behind me at the time jaja.
well your theory of the ignition switch not being suspect is false. The ignition switch is not needed to turn your lights on.
If you went to your car and turned the head lights on(key not in ignition) the head lights,dash lights and parking lights,tail lights
will come on. when the car dies thats why the lights are on. C8-)DON’T replace the distributor especially if you don’t have evidence. I agree that the most likely suspect is the electrical portion of the ignition switch and is the most common cause of the problem you describe in my experience. While the engine is running try wiggling the key in the ignition to see if the engine stalls, if it does replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
You may have a point with the icm… if you say the CEL is on when theres a crank and no-start, it must mean the ECM is getting power correct? And it sounds that you drive it to a point where something starts to overheat and short out, causing the engine to stall, then when it cools off, starts working again for a short period of time.
As the others say.. check the ignition switch, but i would put my money on the icm or something going bad in the distributor… As mentioned earlier, when the car stalls, check for fuel and spark. if its no spark, poor a little bit of cold water on the distributor to cool down the icm. if it starts right after, you’ve found the problem.
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