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IF it was my car, I would go with the salvage yard route, as long as you get one with ‘lower miles’ and a warranty. As you mentioned, the engine has alot of miles on it, but it is a Honda engine, and I wouldn’t be surprised if you got another 207k miles out of it. But almost $2000 for a rebuild on what I keep reading are spotty at best transmissions seems like alot. You can go the salvage yard route twice for less money. I’m sure others might tell you different.
On a side note, if the trans is just starting to act up, and you wouldn’t be totally screwed if it went out on ya (driving kids around, long commutes, etc) you could let it ride for awhile, and see if it gets worse. Again, these are just my opinions.
I even ordered my number punches from Norther Tool so I could mark them myself…
Oh well, guess that is one less step I need to worry about. Time to get those caps off next.
Good luck man! You should do a ‘how-to’ with all the pictures you are taking, and post them in that section when you are finished. Or at least a collage of ‘this is what I did’, etc. You are good with the arrows and stuff on yer pics, and I enjoy looking at ’em. I’m obviously a computer moron btw.
That engine looks like it has been rebuilt once before. Id be interested to see if the cylinders have already been bored over or not.
Will keep you posted on the cylinder bore. I am curious myself to see if it has been bored, or just honed over.
Well, even honing will remove a decent bit of material. The typical boring is about .030″ to get a cylinder back into round, and that’s not alot of metal. You may end up having to get a set of .060″ oversized pistons, depending on how much honing was done, and how long ago, as well as how many miles have been put on the engine since the first rebuild.
I would also favor a salvage yard unit unless you know if a place that specializes in rebuilding of Honda transmissions.
Quoted From crandall:
This has been very helpful and why I like the forums. I could have sworn a rebuild had already taken place, but you have convinced me otherwise.
Will follow that advice on the oil pump.
Also, TexasCoder, the engine came out of, and will go back into, a 1980, Ford F-100.
The one thing you want to be careful with about the oil pump, though, is that if you get too high a volume oil pump, it could run the motor dry. I have seen this happen as well. So don’t go too high a volume oil pump. Get something midrange. Like a 5% increase in volume. I have a 10% in my vette, but if I didn’t have a deep sump pan, that pump would be too high a volume.
The rods come marked from the factory. Every 302 I ever rebuilt was marked like that on the rods…I wouldn’t go .060 over…it may result in overheating issues.
That’s interesting on the rods as the 87 302 block i had the rods were not stamped and it was stock with 88k miles pulled from a wrecked Foxbody.
I know from looking online that some Fords from 1955 had there pistons and rods stamped and same too with other engines.
But the more i research, there more it seems they sometimes ‘did’ and ‘did not’ go to the trouble of marking there connecting rods.
Still, god luck with the rebuild and keep us updated.
Yep that’s stock and you’ll find it on a lot of engines actually, keep in mind that both the cap and the rod are marked with the correct number you do NOT want to mix these up as they are created and machined as a matched set. As for boring out the cylinders don’t go too far (.030 should be fine) and to be honest I don’t think you need to, if you want to go faster I would highly recommend one of Eldebrock’s performer kits that come with a cam, lifters, intake, and carb that are all matched, one thing you need to watch out for when building stuff like this is that you don’t want to buy a bunch of go fast parts and expect them to work together after you bolt them on, real engine building takes careful planning and MATH of all things to make it work properly, the package I suggested is a great set up and someone has already done the math for you. One last recommendation is for a high volume oil pump with a hardened oil pump drive, Fords can be a little weak in this area so this is a good upgrade.
I always thought it was stock too. I have been into a couple of 302’s in the past, and I have seen some wiht and without markings. I never paid much attention to it. I am also interested in hearing about the bore size, and pictures too 🙂
Also, what car are you putting this into?
This has been very helpful and why I like the forums. I could have sworn a rebuild had already taken place, but you have convinced me otherwise.
Will follow that advice on the oil pump.
Also, TexasCoder, the engine came out of, and will go back into, a 1980, Ford F-100.
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