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Quoted From dreamer2355:
Can you post a picture as well as letting us know the type of Explorer and engine size?
1996 Explorer 5.0 AWD. I’m surprised I forgot to put that in there. The Parts department couldn’t find a diagram for the 96, but did on the 97 model year…apparently the only pics were for the 4.0.
the part number according to what I found is the callout name 9d424 “Ford Intake Manifold Heater Tube 5.0L; w/o Message Center ” I’m working on getting a picture up.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kQ8R … 0_3315.jpg
This is the best picture of it that I could get. I wish I had taken pictures of the engine with the plenum off.
This hard line connects to a molded heater hose that connects to the water pump just below the bypass hose. It then hooks up with the heater core in back. In the picture, you can see the problem is the small connection that jumps off the line and into the plenum. I’m not sure if Ford was heating up the plenum or trying to keep it cooler. I’m not sure if I should bypass that altogether or if I should engineer it back into the system with some sort of fittings. I guess it will depend on the fittings I can find to perform such a task.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp … P2014_____
Does that look like it might help? You could cut off the existing metal lines with a tubing cutter and run rubber lines to and from the connector. The description states it’s available in steel or brass. I know it’s not the right shape either, but the site also states that there are various configurations. You would probably want one with a straight 5/8″ line and the 3/8″ line as the bottom of the ‘T’.
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/for … 424-b.html
The part is somewhat available but you may want to call a few Ford parts dealerships out of your state to see if they also list it and could mail it to you.
If it were me I would forget the metal part and see if I could get my hands on a ‘T’ to install in the line to feed the heater core and replace the metal line with rubber, this would save you money and time I’m sure. You might be able to find a ‘T’ in the plumbing section of a hardware store.
Happy news everyone! I had to do a bit of leg work, but NAPA carried a T designed for automotive HVAC. It was 5/8ths straight through with a 3/8ths “T”. However, those thick lines had in I.D. of 1/4th inch! So, I had to use a short section of 3/8ths ( transmission hose ) and an adapter down to the 1/4 I.D. line.
No promises, but if the weather holds and I find the time this weekend, I’ll shoot a quicky video and post it here outlining what was wrong and what I did to fix it.
Total cost was about $30 for hoses, clamps, adapters and a small stupid tax ( I will point that out in the video if I make one ).
Consider this problem solved!
Oh, and my thoughts on the steel line…asthetics. I don’t see any reason to route those lines so ridiculously complex, although I’m sure a Furd Engineer could tell me what the brain trust was thinking when they designed this engine.
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