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Here’s the deal. My Blazer seems to stall every time I stop at a red light, and if I leave it to idle for a while it will stall out and die. Any ideas what the problem is? I checked for codes and found non.
Also, I’ve been replacing tune-up parts on it, but it seems to be drinking more gas than normal. Would it be the fuel level sensor, or something else that wasn’t working before and is now? Sparkplugs 5 and 6 were both burned out and my fuel level sensor is needle on the dashboard is all over the place while I’m driving.
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Ok,,here’s my 2 cents,,,from all of the symptoms you have stated,,,from the spark plugs to the stalling,,,and the only reason I say this I had it happen to me,,do me a favor,,,check your O2 sensors.I had an S10 do exactly the same thing,,exactly the same syptoms,,and like you,I did everything you have done,trying to repair the problem.I kept getting lean codes,,but it kept running rich,,which makes absolutely no sense.Finally another friend of mine suggested I check them,,and I told him,,I had never had O2’s cause a problem like this,,but I followed his advice and sure enough,,it stopped all of the issues.The key to this,,is the fact that it will stall,,and then start right back up,,the O2’s are sending the wrong info to the computer,,so you end up getting a rich,lean code back and forth.Also,,check your EGR system,,,sometimes carbon has built up inside the EGR valve and cause the pintal to not close completely,,AKA,,sometimes it does,,sometimes it doesn’t,,and that will also cause the rich,lean conditions,,and it will really cause the stalling.Remember,,these are just ideas and just opinions,,bascially thinking outside the box sorta stuff,,but I would start with the O2’s and check those.Oh,,and like another said,,I wouldn’t be getting into the timing chain until you checked the deflection in it,,thats not a job you want to start unless it is absolutely necessary,,and also,,just to check it,,you’re going to be removing the front of the engine,,water pump,pulley system,,and you’re going to have to drop the front of the oil pan to get the bottom of the timing cover loose,,and then you’re going to have to reseal the oil pan after you’re done,,thats a lot of work just to find out you didn’t need to do it,,,just something to think about,,I hope my suggestions help,,,again,,just thinking outside the box.
I thought it was the O2 sensors, but everyone kept telling me it wasn’t. I tried to loosen one of them, but it wouldn’t come loose even after I WD-40’d it and liquid wrenched it, and what not. What could get them loose? I would try banging on the wrench to try to get it loose, but there ain’t enough room to that.
I don’t recommend the use of open end wrenches on O2 sensors, when I take them out I often cut the wires and put a 6pt 7/8 deep well socket, if I can’t get that in there I use the box end of a wrench, you DON’T want to round those off. I’ve had to use heat on some but mostly I get them loose with the socket and breaker bar.
They also make this stuff called aerokroil,,it’s like PB blaster,,but I’ve seen work on frozen bolts better than PB Blaster,,but,,either one will work,,,and,,unfortunately,,there have been some that just wouldn’t come out and it’s like Eric said,,you have to use a torch and heat them up.They make several different types of o2 sensor sockets and wrenches,,but again,,it’s like Eric said,,it’s not really a good idea to use the open end wrench with a hammer,,they do like to round off.
O2 sensors don’t ‘normally’ get stuck as they usually are installed with antisieze on the threads however they do get stuck from time to time. If you plan on reusing the sensor I don’t recommend spraying it with penetrants as you could actually damage the sensor by doing that as the outside of the sensor is just as important to it’s operation as the inside.
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