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Here’s the deal. My Blazer seems to stall every time I stop at a red light, and if I leave it to idle for a while it will stall out and die. Any ideas what the problem is? I checked for codes and found non.
Also, I’ve been replacing tune-up parts on it, but it seems to be drinking more gas than normal. Would it be the fuel level sensor, or something else that wasn’t working before and is now? Sparkplugs 5 and 6 were both burned out and my fuel level sensor is needle on the dashboard is all over the place while I’m driving.
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what parts have been put into the vehicle so far? I would start with checking fuel pressure,spark and vacuum leaks.
as for the dash gage being all over. your issue maybe with the sending unit in the tank. heres some video to help you in your diagnostic.
also make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. C8-)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSg … plpp_video vacuum
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piOzN1tZ … plpp_video fuel pump
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539 … plpp_video no start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAj … plpp_video power balanceI had a 1994 S10 with the 4.3 V6. I had to replace the fuel injection delivery part. (It sits underneath the intake manifold and has hard lines going to the injectors.) The problem is that the part begins to leak and gas is sucked directly into the intake runners causing it to run rich.
The symptoms are stalling and poor fuel mileage. Mine almost smelled acidic from the exhaust since it was burning so much gas. I actually replaced this part twice.
Do you have access to a scan tool to look at PID data?
Also, when the vehicle dies, does it start right back up?
Thanks, I have already fixed a vacuum leak, replaced the sparkplugs, currently replacing the sparkplug wires, and next the distributor. As for the fuel injectors, that might be the problem since it sounds like 99’s engine and mine are the same (if his is a Vortec 4300 V6 4.3L). Do you have to take the intake manifold completely out to replace the fuel injector system?
Yes I have access to a scan tool, but i don’t know if it will read the PID data (whatever it stands for). and yes it does start right back up.
Here is a great video from Scanner Danner –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09_wQ9yQ … TvNN9X68Q=
That should give you a good insight to the issue possibly.
Also dont forget to do the checks posted previously.
What brand of plugs did you use?
Oh and the past codes on it were P0171 and P0174 both reading Banks 1 & 2 too lean. but they are aparently fixed now, and on top of that most everything on my blazer is off the lot except what I replaced and the belt, timing chain needs to be replaced but don’t know where it is.
How do you know the lean codes were fixed and why do think you need to change the timing chain?
Id be looking for vacuum leaks after the MAF as well as using some MAF cleaner on the heated element.
The timing chain needs to be replaced cause its over 184,000 miles on the original timing chain. The MAF has just been replaced and I, along with a mechanic friend, have already found and fixed all vacuum leaks. And the codes do not show even after resetting the computer.
I would still like to see scan tool data for the fuel trims.
Why was the MAF replaced? Was it tested on a lab scope?
As for the timing chain, you need to check the deflection before condemning it.
Unfortunately, I think that’ll cost me money I don’t have for the fuel trims. The MAF was replaced because the previous owner didn’t replace the air filter regularly, and the cleaner didn’t fix the MAF error code, so I replaced it. Replacing the timing chain is only something that I would do to prevent it from tearing my engine up if it broke, like the one in my dad’s galant did.
You must be a mechanic, cause I don’t know a whole lot about working on cars, although I will soon enough. Whoever came up with the idea of making cars hard to work on, I’d like to punch them in the face.
i dont think its your injection spider when they start to leak it will run rich. i know this sounds stupid but try removing your gas cap then drive it and see if that helps
Those trucks (with the Vortech) are notorious for leaking fuel pressure regulators. The video Dreamer posted goes over diagnostics for the system. I would watch it closely and see if you are experiencing those conditions. If the regulator is leaking raw fuel into the intake, your gas mileage will be poor, and cause stalling issues, just like what you are experiencing.
Resist the temptation to just start replacing parts especially if you haven’t confirmed that they’re bad. You say you fixed a vacuum leak but have you checked for any new ones? Probably not a bad idea based on your description. Also check for any air leaks in the tube that runs form the MAF sensor to the engine, any leaks here will cause performance problems and won’t show up under a check engine light.
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