Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 96 Acura Integra Stalls/Starts back up
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November 4, 2018 at 11:33 am #891324
I have a 96 Acura Integra I use to deliver pizzas and other foods. One day on the job, the car suddenly stalled on me. It wouldn’t start right back up, but would after a few minutes of waiting. No codes. Took it to one shop who said it was low on coolant and he topped it off and didn’t have the issue. Had the issue the day i got the car back. Another shop has had it for over 2 weeks now and have been unable to diagnose it. Any ideas?
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November 4, 2018 at 12:51 pm #891325
The only time my integra let me down and stalled and would not restart it was down to the ignition coil in the distributor failing,a very easy fix and cheap to buy on eBay cost about £15 for the part .I found out from the tow guy it was a common problem and about the only thing that ever went wrong with them he said at one time they always. Carried a couple with them .
A bit surprised no one has been able to sort it for you,hope this helpsNovember 4, 2018 at 1:20 pm #891327I figured it was something spark related. Planned on checking plugs, wires, coil, and igniter whenever I finally get the car back. It’s a real shame too because if I didn’t buy the car all beat up, it would be real nice
November 6, 2018 at 10:30 am #891348I guess I should ask this. Would the ignition coil not throw a code? The car has been scanned multiple times to no avail.
November 7, 2018 at 6:07 am #891353Not necessarily . But a Easy way to tell if you’re ignitor is bad is if you watch you’re rpm gauge .
If has a slight bounce or drops fast when deceleration .But another commen problem is the main fuel relay . If it starts to go out you will have these exact problems .
Also how’s you’re idle ?
When was last tune up ?
Do you have vacuum leaks ?
Have you checked evap can ?November 7, 2018 at 7:36 am #891355RPMs move normal.
After checking symptoms, I’ve realized I have more of bad coil pack symptoms. Vibrating when idle, misfires, bad fuel economy, and stalling.
As for a vacuum leak, no idea.
No idea what an evap can is to be honest. I only casually work on my cars.
No idea on a tune up either. I just recently bought the carNovember 7, 2018 at 12:31 pm #891358mot a huge mechanic myself but maybe got some ideas to throw at you. how is it stalling, possible over heating ? just because they said they topped off the coolant doesnt mean squat unless they have burped the system properly so that the coolant is truly running through the system without airbubbles. if thats good, maybe your thermostat needs to be replaced, super cheap. notice your fan kicking on way too soon or anything with overheating symptoms. second, like the last guy said, possible bad ignition module. but i still dont see how a missfire could completely kill the power. again you haven’t described how it dies on you. maybe a bad ground, or simply a battery going out. again i honestly have no experience on that car in particular, but i hope these suggestions help you get back on the road. since your doing delivery, my guess might be on the cooling system..
November 7, 2018 at 3:10 pm #891359I don’t know if it would throw a code or not all I know is that the the fault can be intermittent when the coil heats up it goes faulty when it cools down it can work again like I said before it’s a dirt cheap fix that any one with a little common sense can do and there are even videos on you tube to show you how in fact I do believe that ETCG 1 has done one himself on the subject on his own integra so for what it cost to change it I would just get it done and see if it fixes your problem before going down the other very expensive route of getting some mechanic to start looking at all your sensors
November 7, 2018 at 4:07 pm #891360I have just been on you tube and typed in Honda integra ignition coil and up comes ETCG 1’s vid on how to do it there are others as well you should only need to do the first part of this where he takes out the coil and then you put a new one in and put it back together.
Been on eBay and in the UK at least they are still available for £16 and £24 for a quality NGK item so I would think they should be available in the US for similar money.
It really is very easy to do so have a go yourselfNovember 7, 2018 at 4:16 pm #891361[quote=”rustymoto” post=200285]mot a huge mechanic myself but maybe got some ideas to throw at you. how is it stalling, possible over heating ? just because they said they topped off the coolant doesnt mean squat unless they have burped the system properly so that the coolant is truly running through the system without airbubbles. if thats good, maybe your thermostat needs to be replaced, super cheap. notice your fan kicking on way too soon or anything with overheating symptoms. second, like the last guy said, possible bad ignition module. but i still dont see how a missfire could completely kill the power. again you haven’t described how it dies on you. maybe a bad ground, or simply a battery going out. again i honestly have no experience on that car in particular, but i hope these suggestions help you get back on the road. since your doing delivery, my guess might be on the cooling system..[/quote]
You don’t just get a misfire you can get a total shut down mine went a 70 mph in the outside lane of a motorway (freeway) not much fun
November 9, 2018 at 10:37 am #891367An update:
I changed the ignition coil. Still died. However, I did notice the RPMs jumping slightly when stopped. Should I change out the igniter? Or maybe the whole distributor?November 10, 2018 at 11:55 am #891377Glad to see you’ve had a go sorry to hear it wasn’t a fix changing the igniter would be the next logical step not sure what the cost is for that but first are your spark plugs in good order and when you took the dissy cap of did you inspect the edge of the rotor arm and the contacts they can get a build up on them from the spark jumping from the rotor arm.It sounds to me like you might have a bad plug .
The EVAP canister is mounted on the engine bulkhead on my car it’s on the left as you look at the car from the front but on yours it might be on the other side if your left hand drive ,it’s a black plastic canister slightly larger than a can of beans with two rubber tubes attached to the top,one slightly bigger than the other and another larger drain pipe coming out the bottom,an easy way to test if there is a problem with the system is to put a couple of plastic hose clamp on the two top pipes and see if it makes a difference to the.cars running but I doubt it will but obviously if it sorts the problem you now there is a fault in that system .all the EVAP canister does is store fuel gasses from the petrol tank until the purge valve opens (also mounted on the bulkhead )and they are sucked into the engine and burnt if you clamp the two pipes as said before and leave the fuel cap a little lose you have cut out the system , which brings me to a point that as the fuel system is normally a sealed system if you are runnning with the wrong filler cap on or just some bung shoved in this would probably upset the whole system so check that it is the correct fuel cap that when you turn it in it starts to click when it’s sealed.
Hope this helpsNovember 10, 2018 at 12:09 pm #891378I’m taking it that you have fitted a new coil and not a second hand part as you might have swapped bad for bad.
The igniter units are available on eBay quite cheaply so another cheap fix and you know how to do it if you have watched the vids.
You can remove the plug leads one at a time as the car is idling and see if each one makes a difference to the way the car runs if three of them make the car run even rougher and one makes no difference you have found the bad plug.
Don’t go to changing the whole distributer until you have exhausted all the other options and then if you go for used parts your always taking a chance that it might not be any better than what you have taken off -
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