Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › 96 Accord Rack and Pinion
- This topic has 14 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 1 month ago by EricTheCarGuy.
-
CreatorTopic
-
November 13, 2011 at 11:00 am #441353
I have an issue. The other day I was getting ready to change the tie rod ends on my kids car. Once I pulled the boots off they were full of steering fluid. So I thought, I’ll just change the rack and pinion. Bad Idea. I’m stuck in my progress. There are 2 flair nuts on top of the rack taking fluid to and returning it to the pump.
-
CreatorTopic
-
AuthorReplies
-
November 13, 2011 at 11:00 am #441354
Welcome to the forums and the frustrating world of swapping out rack and pinions!
I would not cut those lines at all. That will just create more work for you. Make sure you use PB blast on those fittings before trying to break them loose.
There is a free Chiltons online posted in another thread in the How To section of these forums that may give you more insight to your repair.
I have not dont this job on that particular vehicle so i cant comment on anything that will aid you more.
However, some vehicles you will need to drop the sub frame to get the rack and pinion out.
November 13, 2011 at 11:00 am #441355+1 on Dreamer’s post – if you do a search on Youtube you’ll see several where they have to drop the subframe (even just a few inches) to get this job done. I know these are a different make, but it may give you some ideas.
Just some examples:
November 14, 2011 at 11:00 am #441356I’ll try some PB blaster on it and let it sit for the next couple of days. These 2 flare nuts are in such a obscure spot that when I do get a wrench on the there’s just not anywhere to go. I did get one to crack loose so I only have the other to get. Mechanics earn their money when they do this job.
I have to say that up to this point I have been enjoying doing the job.November 14, 2011 at 11:00 am #441357I checked out both videos and I see they are dropping the frame for the repairs on the Fords. This looks like the option I’m going to do since there’s just not enough room to get in there. I was kinda hoping that someone who has done this repair before could send me in the right direction.
I was able to get one of the fittings off, but the 17mm just won’t budge. I soaked it with PB blaster but still no luck.
The dropping of the sub frame seems like the best way to go.November 15, 2011 at 11:00 am #441358+1 on not cutting the lines. I don’t normally drop the subframe to do that rack but it is a pain to get out that’s for sure. It might be easier to drop the subframe however to get to the 17mm that you’re having trouble with so if that wo
November 15, 2011 at 11:00 am #441359Almost forgot, make sure you use Honda PS fluid when you’re done, Honda’s really hate it when you use other fluids in the PS system.
November 15, 2011 at 11:00 am #441360Thanks for the advice. One thing that I haven’t tried yet was firing up the old propane torch and try putting a little heat to it. Not sure why I didn’t think of it before.
I’m not quite ready to drop the frame on it yet. I’m thinking there’s still a chance it will break loose. Patients and time. I think I heard that in a movie once.
I know about the Honda PS fluid. Got a few pints ready to pour once the rack is in.
Even with this minor setback I’m still enjoying rebuilding the front end on the car. Hell if I knew I would have this much fun I should have become a mechanic years ago instead of a truck driver.
By the way, great video Eric on the front wheel bearing replacement video. It came out just like you demonstrated.
I called the local Honda shop for kicks and they quoted me $1150 to replace them both.
ThanksNovember 16, 2011 at 11:00 am #441361Success!!!!!! The heat worked like a charm. I was thinking the trans shift cable had to come off, but I was wrong. I just pushed in on the left side of the rack and it slid out no problems. OUT finally. Now it’s time to put the new in.
The grommets that with it, are they supposed to go around the base of the flare nut?November 16, 2011 at 11:00 am #441362Good job on removing the rack and pinion!
However, what grommets are you referring to and what do they look like? Do you have a picture?
November 16, 2011 at 11:00 am #441363There are several different sizes. They came in a pack with the rack. I think I figured it out. I brlirvr they are used on the steering shaft and not the fittings. I was thinking maybe they were used for the flare nuts, Im just going to use a little teflon tape for those.
The funny thing about the rack is there were no instructions for the use of those grommets or anything else. Theye were just in the box along with the rack, and me being the rookie I don’t have a clue as to what I’m doin.
I would take a photo except my kid sat on my digital camera and broke it.November 18, 2011 at 11:00 am #441364That only place I think those grommets could go would be where the rack fastens to the subframe, other than that I don’t know.
November 24, 2011 at 11:00 am #441365My rack and pinion job is complete along with the wheel bearings. I sent the car out for an alignment on Monday and all is good. The car drives great and steers perfect. The grinding noise from the wheel bearings is GONE! This is what lead me to the rack problem in the first place.
Although it was a bit of a pain getting at those flare nuts on the rack, the rest of the job went pretty smooth. I had ton of fun doing it, and the amount of satisfaction I got when everything was complete was huge.
Thanks to everyone who commented on this job, and thanks to Eric for the youtube video that sent me in the right direction.November 24, 2011 at 11:00 am #441366Im glad it was all a success! Dont forget to change the traffic light to “green” so it will help someone else with this issue if they search the database C8-)
November 25, 2011 at 11:00 am #441367Quoted From dreamer2355:
Im glad it was all a success! Dont forget to change the traffic light to “green” so it will help someone else with this issue if they search the database C8-)
+1 on this and thank you for using the ETCG forum.
-
AuthorReplies
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.