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First , welcome to the forums ! is the check engine light lit up on your car ? if so you should check for any stored codes ( check for codes even if the light is currently not on ) was a fuel pressure test done to verify proper fuel pressure ? remove the distributor cap and inspect it and the rotor . how long has it been since a tune up was done ? with the cap off check for oil inside the distributor. keep us updated as to your findings.
+1 with the above post.
Make sure you use OEM parts only.
When was the last time you serviced the timing belt?
it has only been about a year since the timing belt, water pump and seals were done. It’s my sisters car and she has had it for about 2 years and the plugs were changed but the wires, cap and rotor i believe are still the same and who knows the last time they were changed. I tested the external coil with the procedure outlined in the helms manual and it checked out ok. the fuel pressure was just checked the way it was described on a video from this site. I opened the fuel filter bolt a little and it sprayed out when the ignition was turned on.
just pulled the codes and it has 2 of them.
p0715 turbine/input shaft speed sensor circuit
p0740 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit
I checked a few forums on your codes, and most of the complaints were transmission related obviously, but I didn’t see anything about causing a no start. As for testing fuel pressure by opening the fuel line up seems odd. You need a kit with a gage to see what the fuel pressure is actually at. Just because you get a fuel spray when you open a line doesn’t mean you have enough pressure to run the engine, but you have SOME pressure.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJF5Lli4xq8
This is a video from Richpin, who does good work. He shows the basics of using a fuel pressure tester. I know you’re engine isn’t starting, but you should still get fuel pressure when you turn the key to the ‘on’ position, as the pump will run for a couple seconds, and then shut off if the PCM isn’t getting an RPM signal.
The codes as stated are for the transmission so don’t worry about those for now. By your description I’m thinking you might be flooded, which happens from time to time with Honda’s, try starting the engine by putting your foot to the floor on the gas, if it begins to start or starts then it was flooded. The other part of the equation besides spark and fuel is compression and timing, if you’re missing any one of those then it also won’t start, if it’s flooded you won’t have enough compression to run the engine. You could also take the plugs out and inspect them, if they are wet with fuel then I would say it’s flooded, you could leave them out to dry as well as the cylinders so that you have a better chance of it starting up when you do go to start it.
it sounds like it’s trying to start because it is firing but not starting. I will try to start it that way and post back my results.
I replaced all the spark plugs. They were all almost covered in oil. The valve cover gasket with seals was also replaced. I’m assuming it’s the seals underneath that are bad which are described in another video. I pulled off the external coil and tested it with a multimeter for resistance. I don’t get a reading between a and c but i get the correct reading between a and the secondary part of the coil. I’m assuming the coil has to be bad. Will i get any spark if the coil is bad? How do i tell between a normal spark and a bad spark. Thanks
It is a waste of time trying to ohm out ignition coils. You need to stress test the under a load with an adjustable ignition tester.
So yes, you could have spark if you had somewhat of a faulty coil.
It might not have been oil but fuel on the plugs if that was the case then it probably was flooded. Check for spark before you worry about checking the coil, I have videos on checking the ignition system should you find that it’s not working properly as stated coil resistance checks are pretty much useless in my experience.
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