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Hello Eric and hello to all viewing my post.
I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey that smokes intermittently. Blue Black smoke I haven’t paid any attention to the color, thinking it was worn rings. The smell is of burnt oil and sometimes of unburned fuel.
I follow your tutorial on how to do a compression test, first compression test I have ever done, and was quite fun actually. I am what you would call an automotive tech aficionado, I love to work on cars. Something about finding the problem and fixing it just excites me. I have thrown parts at a problem car before and its not as fun, especially financially.
Anywho. I went out to Oreilly’s and rented a compression tester. If you haven’t rented from them before, let me tell you. “You Pay nothing” to use these rental tools, just return the tool for a full refund. After doing the compression test, I am baffled to this oil consumption and smoke on my vehicle.
I have several theories, one of them of course is worn rings. Another theory I have is it may have something to do with the last major repair I did on this vehicle was a R/R/R of the cylinder head, for a suspected leaking headgasket, and known bad(broken) valve, don’t remember if it was intake or exhaust, nor which cylinder. My last theory is timing, since the distributor only goes in one way, with very little room for adjustment.Some more history on the vehicle, I have replaced all major oil seals in and around the timing belt and crank during a R/R of the water pump.
Here are my plugs and readings from the dry test. After 5 compressions.
Since my pulleys are on the right, the number 1 cylinder reads from right to left.
What do you think Eric and guys/gals chime in also. Debating wether to do and R/R/R on this engine. I have more to say but will wait for some suggestions from you guys/gals.
Thanks in advanced, look forward to reading your comments.
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Thanks for you reply, I am always looking out my rear view mirror for smoke. I live in texas and you can get a pulled over for a smoking vehicle. I keep that in mind all the time when I am driving around in the oddy. In my observations, it seems to smoke a bit on cold start up; while driving its when the engine has a load on it, going on incline, sometimes worse when A/C running. I am going to have wife follow me around while I drive the oddy to see just how bad it is.
More About the head R/R/R, I sent it to a machine shop to have it cleaned, resurfaced (whatever they do there)and the “Bad Valve” was a broken valve so a valve job was done, I mean that head and vales were clean as a whistle, the shinniest I have ever seen it.
I am hoping the seals were replaced, might have to look into that. I am going to call the machine shop and see if it is standard practice on their cylinder heads.
The plugs say without a doubt it’s burning oil. The compression numbers also say that the engine is a bit tired since there’s a 10psi difference between the highest and lowest cylinders. That said, it’s not uncommon for an engine of that age to show it’s age. To be honest, if you want to get rid of the oil consumption problem I would suggest a reconditioned long block if you intend to keep the vehicle. If not, keep the oil topped off and drive it till the wheels fall off.
More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks
Good luck and keep us posted.
I worked up enough courage to add some oil to each cylinder for the wet test, and it in my opinion paints a clear picture what is going on with this engine.
the tools I used.
I look forward to reading your thoughts on these readings. Looks like I’m going to be looking to rebuild the long block.
The last time I did the compression test, I got a check engine light, and the engine is acting up, stalling, and sputtering. This time I got the check engine light, gonna pull codes and post.
Again I utilized another video from you Eric how to pull codes, looking for the connector and jumpin the connection.
OBD I Trouble code 4 flashes = CrankShaft position sensor.
ABS Trouble code 18 = High pressure system
I think it threw a code 4 because the engine was stalling.
My assessment remains the same. Worn out engine.
If you have an aftermarket distributor that is likely the cause of the code 4. It’s a known issue with aftermarket distributors.
The code 18 could mean that the psi switch on the ABS unit is faulty. I think you have bigger issues with the engine however. You might want to table the ABS issue until you decide where to go with the engine.
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