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Hello everyone,
My 1995 Honda Civic won’t start after 2 weeks of not driving it. The car was running fine with no apparent problem before that. It was my daily driver for over two years now. I took a vacation and the car was sat for 2 weeks.
Yesterday when I try to drive it, the engine struggle to run for a second when I first turn the key. Then it died and won’t start. The engine cranks with no problem. Initially I thought it was just out of gas as I noticed that the fuel gauge was all the way down. But after putting some gas in, it still won’t start.
I then checked the ignition, all four coils sparks.
Then I checked the fuel pump. When turned the key to ON position, the fuel pump makes the sound for about 3 second. So it wasn’t completely out. To double check, I loosen the bolt on the fuel filter and turned the key to ON position. Fuel drips out but doesn’t seems to have much pressure. The car would seems to be trying to run but won. So I thought it was a worn out fuel pump.
Today, it became bizarre to me after changing the fuel pump and it still won’t start. I took out the spark plugs and saw all cylinders were wet with gas.
Things that I have ruled out are battery, starter, ignition, fuel pump, injectors.
I really have no clue what the problem was.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Much appreciated!!
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A little more info about the car.
It is a EX model with a manual transmission. It has 240K.
Also I forgot to mention that the engine oil was really low to my surprise. It’s blow the lower dot and barely made it on the dipstick. I have just changed the oil in October. There is no substantial oil leaks to be seen. The coolant was also a little low.
While the car was parked, it rained pretty hard for a couples of days. But I really doubt it has anything to do with the weather.[quote=”NATHANSB” post=156661]A little more info about the car.
It is a EX model with a manual transmission. It has 240K.
Also I forgot to mention that the engine oil was really low to my surprise. It’s blow the lower dot and barely made it on the dipstick. I have just changed the oil in October. There is no substantial oil leaks to be seen. The coolant was also a little low.
While the car was parked, it rained pretty hard for a couples of days. But I really doubt it has anything to do with the weather.[/quote]Did the car blow a lot of smoke when it did run?
Eric has a big section on diagnosing this issue
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/no-start-faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problemsand I’d go through that. He does list a “mechanical integrity” on his list and the symptoms of low oil and coolant lower has me thinking that you may have that issue.
[quote=”DaveNewbie” post=156690][quote=”NATHANSB” post=156661]A little more info about the car.
It is a EX model with a manual transmission. It has 240K.
Also I forgot to mention that the engine oil was really low to my surprise. It’s blow the lower dot and barely made it on the dipstick. I have just changed the oil in October. There is no substantial oil leaks to be seen. The coolant was also a little low.
While the car was parked, it rained pretty hard for a couples of days. But I really doubt it has anything to do with the weather.[/quote]Did the car blow a lot of smoke when it did run?
Eric has a big section on diagnosing this issue
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/no-start-faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problemsand I’d go through that. He does list a “mechanical integrity” on his list and the symptoms of low oil and coolant lower has me thinking that you may have that issue.[/quote]
One correction, its a DX not EX.
The car never had smoke coming out from the tail. It has always been clean.
I have check the compression on all four cylinders. There are compression but kinda low. Dry test reads 60 30 60 90 psi.
Timing marks also lined up.Here is a picture of the spark plugs. It looks normal to me but one is darker than the rest. the darker one came from the 90psi cylinder.
I have pretty much gone through the diagnose and don’t know what else I am missing.
It wouldn’t let me upload the picture. Keep giving me a 500 error.
Here is a google picture share link.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8YUmPDRlkq-M2FPU1lwSTF0UE0/view?usp=sharing[quote=”CordiaMad” post=156759]you have checked if it sparks?
eric has great videos like this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ%5B/quote%5DAll four spark plugs sparks.
[quote=”NATHANSB” post=156757][quote=”DaveNewbie” post=156690][quote=”NATHANSB” post=156661
I have check the compression on all four cylinders. There are compression but kinda low. Dry test reads 60 30 60 90 psi.
Timing marks also lined up.Here is a picture of the spark plugs. It looks normal to me but one is darker than the rest. the darker one came from the 90psi cylinder.
.[/quote]
With that low of compression I doubt it will start. Try a wet compression test and see if your numbers change. The wet plugs may be firing and getting fuel but there is not enough compression to set off combustion.Hi there. Try spraying som carb cleaner through the throttle and crank it. If it turns on and stalls the you might want to follow fuel direction. Your compression seems low… Try a wet test and see the results. You might be facing a mechanical problem here if it doesn’t get any better. Keep us posted.
Okay so your running a 1995 Civic EX which has the D16Z6 1.6L SOHC VTEC engine.
So crank no start you say? Replace the cap, rotor, and all spark plugs ngk g-power will do at proper gap (Specified by a sticker under the hood).
After replacing all plugs and gapping, leave one out and plug into the wire and rest on exhaust manifold or metal. Have friend crank to notice if spark occurs or not and if it’s a clear ark. After complete install back into the cylinder head and attach all wires to all gapped plugs.
Once you’ve determined that much, while friend is in car leave ignition off, use 17mm socket to crack primary fuel rail nut just slightly. Have friend move key from off to on, not engine start. In a properly operating fuel pump it will spray out, quickly tell friend to turn off and tighten 17mm after test.
Spraying yes/ no? replace fuel pump with the O’Reilly Auto Parts lifetime warranty import direct pump since it’s smaller and higher tech than oem. It can also handle low tank beating a lot better. Though try not to run it dry, no less than 1/4 to be sure the pump will not fail.
Replaced with import direct pump/ spraying properly out of 17mm bolt? YES/NO? If not remove main fuel pump relay under steering wheel it’s a small brown box clipped up under there. If you have soldering skills, remove brown cover and pull the computer pcb. Re-heat and re-solder all connections as a free resolution to failing solder joints. At that point you should have proper spraying from 17mm bolt on fuel rail.
At that point you should be golden, otherwise it could be the distributor is too far advanced or retarded to set to center by loosening 3 bolts. Center meaning equal distance gap to the left and right of top center distributor bolt. Usually perfect is a tad say 1-2mm gap to the left of the top distributor bolt and no gap at the right. For a tad bit more high rpm power, 3-4mm gap to the left of the primary top distributor bolt and 0 gap to the right of the bolt.
Still no start? Try feeding the throttle body a squirt or two of carb cleaner/ starting fluid/ or plain old 91% isopropyl alcohol. At that point it should start right back up. You may clean the crankcase before your next 5w30 oil change, 10 minutes of idling on 32oz of 91% isopropyl alcohol in the crank to free debris and thoroughly cleanse the whole engine. Then change with fresh 5w30, and as far as oil consumption the d16z6 and y8 commonly sucked oil down from the valve stem seals (Usually $250 repair including valve adjustment).
Next dump a full 32oz of isopropyl alcohol in the gas tank on a completely full tank and let it run through to 1/4 tank. At that point if your still having trouble, an additional 32oz of isopropyl alcohol on a full tank may be necessary to thin/ break-up/ and break-free pressure robbing debris in the fuel system including the injectors.
sorry about the spark or no spark didn’t read all you said.
i agree with HeavyJ compression is very low you should do wet test.
plugs just need a clean anyway good luck.
oh also hows the air filter?What you’re describing sounds like a classic ignition switch problem. Very common on that vintage Honda.
This is also covered here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
Dry test reads 60 30 60 90 psi.
That’s a big variance between those and it’s very low. I think that’s where your problem is. Shouldn’t they be more like 139psi or something? What does the manual say for what the compression numbers should be?
eric will have a video you just have to find it.
thats the reason your car won’t start.
low comp.
this might help as theres so many things that can
cause low compression.by what i see 1 of the cylinder no change means head problem the others new rings
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/1.6L/how-to-test-engine-compression-1#1
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