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ok the alternator is putting out 17 ish volts when up to speed at idle its normal.
background, i have replaced the oem motorcraft voltage regulator due to a broken connector
since then ive replaced about 6 or 7 regulators over the course of a month
i have 2 new batteries
replaced the starter solenoid
checked my grounds on the bottom of the engine and cleaned them
ran an extra ground from the alternator to the engine
took the alternator off and apart cleaned thatok so the regulator will burn up the wire to one of the contacts the other one will work but only puts out like 12.2 volts enough to run during the day of course but not at night
the latest regulator i put in it resembled the oem and is not burning up the wire to the contact so both are working but way to good at about 17-18 volts when up to speed at idle its normalmaybe its the alternator maybe its the ecu
just throwing my thoughts out there, please bounce some ideas back.
Kenny
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see if this helps. There is a voltage test in there for 6v for the regulator. Try the test.
I would highly doubt the Ecu (pcm) is at fault. Have you tried scanning for codes? The 95s are OBD2 compliant….sort of. The right code reader can pull codes. That would eliminate the pcm. My 95 7.3 runs about 13.8v under normal conditions.
12.2v is barely enough to power the IDM (injector drive module) I am surprised your able to run the truck with that voltage.
Check the connector to the regulator for any possible shorts… Did you replace the connector harness and pigtail also? Is it possible you crossed a wire?
The only other thing… But it’s a long shot. The fuel bowl heater has a tendacy to short out internally and cause a whole bunch of issues. I’ve never heard of it causing this problem, but I would unplug it to test it out. It’s a single conductor square shaped plug ont the right(driver) side of the fuel bowl. It’s right above the connector for the water in fuel sensor. Those are the only two wires on that side of the fuel bowl. Typically this will also blow the fuse for the pcm, but I’ve also seen it cause some strange electrical issues
Keep us updated. A voltage read direct from the alternator would also be useful in diagnosing this issue
[quote=”92Prelude” post=153588]it was the alternator i made a video how i fixed it you guys wont believe it.[/quote]
Was the other alternator hard to spin? Lets call this a win. Post back to let
us know if all stays good. 🙂na it wasnt hard to spin, i think it had a small piece of wire get in it from other repairs and short it out, but who knows.
ill take another video here in a min when i leave of my scan gauge 2 volt reading and post it[quote=”92Prelude” post=153597]na it wasnt hard to spin, i think it had a small piece of wire get in it from other repairs and short it out, but who knows.
ill take another video here in a min when i leave of my scan gauge 2 volt reading and post it[/quote]Sounds like a plan. 🙂
Thats a new one for me. Glad you fixed it
BTW nice IPR Duty cycle numbers. I love to see these old 7.3s being taken care of and kept free of high pressure oil leaks.
New one on me too. Thanks for the videos and the updates on the fix. It’s a great addition to the forum. Thanks again.
yea the alt came out of a 03 sequoia with a 3.0 ltr v6, i bought it because i saw it was motorcraft and i was going to just swap the voltage regulators hoping that would fix my problem, but once i had them off and next to each other i had one of those “how about that” moments. but yea an 8 year gap in alt manufacturing also
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