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1995 f150 5.0 200k miles on body, 50 miles on engine (freshly rebuilt).
Im getting code 332 – Insefficent egr flow detected (obd1).
I’m still breaking the engine in, so I’m only taking it for short drives and haven’t worked up to highway speeds yet.
But… I’m getting this code after about 20-30 mins of driving. As far as I can tell the code comes and goes (again I’m not driving it for long periods, and i keep clearing codes Bc ive been replacing parts to try to fix problem).I’ve replaced the egr valve, egr position sensor, & egr vacuum solenoid. Replaced ALL vacuum lines throughout truck. Tried sticking a hanger in egr port at intake manifold and the tube that runs from egr to clean it out. The intake manifold is pretty clean but the pipe that runs FROM egr is pretty old and rusty… (honestly, I should have cleaned it better or replaced it when I put engine in). I REALLY don’t want to have to pull the damn manifold off again to replace it, but the hanger isn’t doing a very good job, and I don’t know where I could get a new one.
So here’s my question, does anyone have any better ideas to clean out egr tube without taking it out? (besides using a hanger and carb cleaner)… I’m not 100% positive this is my problem though… Anyone have any idea what else could be wrong? Or how I could more conclusively diagnose the problem?
All the wiring is old, it’s crossed
My mind that could be an issue too, but what is the process for testing the wiring? Is it different for each sensor?Any and all help is appreciated!
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one thing you may want to try that has worked for me on several occasions over the years, is I take a piece of speedometer cable and attach it to a drill, remove the egr valve and the throttle body, insert the cable into the egr port that runs through the intake manifold and use the speedometer cable like and auger to clean this passage. this circuit is prone to carbon up even to the point of total blockage. make sure the cable will pass through unrestricted, reinstall the egr valve, inspect the throttle valve assembly and be sure all vacumm circuits are clean, reinstall the throtle body, clear the code and retest drive.
Good luck and kesp posting to let us know how this worked out for you.First thing-Do you have manifold vacuum to the egr?
Does this truck have the coffee can looking thing.
check this for holes or that it holds vacuum.[quote=”htwr” post=54009]remove the egr valve and the throttle body, insert the cable into the egr port that runs through the intake manifold and use the speedometer cable like and auger to clean this passage. this circuit is prone to carbon up even to the point of total blockage. make sure the cable will pass through unrestricted, reinstall the egr valve, inspect the throttle valve assembly and be sure all vacumm circuits are clean, reinstall the throtle body, clear the code and retest[/quote]
Dumb as it may be… I actually cleaned the intake manifold pretty good before installing, then got lazy when I put egr line on *stupid me*.
But, that would probably be a good idea for egr line.Yes, I do have coffee can vacuum reserve, and even though it’s an original part, it seems to be holding pressure just fine. All vacuum lines are new and reinspected all of them. Everything is hooked up correctly and it’s all brand new.
So. Is it safe to clean that egr line out with speedo cable without unhooking it from lower intake manifold? Will all that crap I break loose screw up my new egr valve?
Thanks for the help! I plan on tackling this issue tomorrow
in answer to your question, I would try to remove the tube. the ideal is to remove the carbon from the engine to keep it being pulled into the egr and becoming lodged in the egr and holding the valve open. if that should happen you will have a rough running engine. also the exhaust system is really not designed to handle carbon solids.anytime you can remove carbon solids, your engine will be better off. if you can’t remove the tube, then after cleaning, use a vacumm cleaner to pull as much of the carbon as you can out of the tube. I also recommend useing the vacumm cleaner to clean out the intake circuit after useing the cable. this will keep from carbon being pulled into the intake system.take your time, and be sure that the tube and the intake circuits are cleaned throughly.
keep us posted, and good luck.I’m just going to replace the dang egr line. I was going to do it this weekend. But it rained all weekend (working in driveway). So I will replace next weekend (weather permitting). I found an egr line online for $40. Better than paying $75 at autozone. I know I can jus. Clean it out, but this thing is so old and rusty, I’d rather pay the $40 than waste another afternoon taking the intake manifold off again.
My new egr valve is making a weird ticking/clicking noise too… I’ll probably replace it again Bc it’s under warranty. I know the autozone (or aftermarket, in general) egr’s aren’t that great, probably got a bad one
Just in case… So I don’t have to wait for a response (I know I’m impatient, but I only have small window to do my car repairs on weekend), if I replace egr line and egr valve (again), and the problem is still there, anybody know where I should go from there?
Thanks for the help guys I’ll keep u posted
when you do clean or replace the line.clean
where the line starts and ends.make sure nothing
is plugged.Is the intake manifold in the truck in question two pieces?
I had a crown vic that complained about this (although it had OBD2, so the code was different), and the solution was to remove the upper portion of the intake manifold, which consisted of the throttle body and a 90 degree elbow-shaped aluminum piece, which exposed a very narrow portion of the EGR passage, cast into the intake manifold. This had gotten clogged with oily gunk, I assume condensed oil from the PCV mixed with carbon from the EGR.
Once that was cleaned out, it functioned properly until I got rid of the car.
[quote=”MR2Aaron” post=54635]Is the intake manifold in the truck in question two pieces?
I had a crown vic that complained about this (although it had OBD2, so the code was different), and the solution was to remove the upper portion of the intake manifold, which consisted of the throttle body and a 90 degree elbow-shaped aluminum piece, which exposed a very narrow portion of the EGR passage, cast into the intake manifold. This had gotten clogged with oily gunk, I assume condensed oil from the PCV mixed with carbon from the EGR.
Once that was cleaned out, it functioned properly until I got rid of the car.[/quote]
Yes there is upper and lower intake manifold. The egr line comes from lower intake manifold and wraps around to egr which is connected to upper intake
Manifold just behind throttle body. If it weren’t for fuel injectors I could just reach under upper intake and unscrew it, but injectors are in the way.I will definitely clean the Ports of upper and lower intake as well hopefully it doesn’t rain this weekend so I can get r done. If anyone has any other ideas/tests to troubleshoot while I’m in there please let me know. Thanks everybody
Ok I finally got some good weather to finish this today.
Cleaned the heck out of the throttle body, cleaned the ports where egr line goes into lower intake manifold, and cleaned ports where egr meets plenum. I went ahead and put a brand new egr line in. There is DEFINATELY NO CLOG in any of these components.
There wasn’t as much gunk to clean as I thought there would be… It was fairly clean for the miles it has (which scared me because I was starting to think this wasn’t the issue).
So got everything back together, and checked ALL vacuum lines… Again… Everything looks good. Said a quick prayer, and started her up.
I started revving (in park) up and down slowly (between 1k & 2k RPM). After about 2 minutes of this, the “check engine” light comes on again.
I only have code 332 showing up (insufficient egr flow detected).
Now I’ve replaced egr valve, egr line, egr position sensor, egr solenoid, & ALL vacuum lines
I think it’s unrelated but in case it comes up, I’ve replaced 02 sensor & canister purge valve solenoid.
I checked the coffee can vacuum reserve… holds pressure, no holes in the bottom.
Cleaned the MAF sensor… its still original part, but it didn’t look that bad.
Pretty much everything I haven’t named in the emissions system is original parts.
Im about to pull my hair out… Where do I go from here???
Could problem be electrical? Electrical is one of my weak points but i have tools and enough common sense to troubleshoot electrical issue with some sort of explanation of how to test.
Do I just put multimeter on electrical terminals and look for 12v or what?
I did add a whole bunch of grounds all over the place when I dropped the engine in, so don’t think it’s a ground issue.
And if it’s not electrical, what else is left???
Sorry for the novel, just trying to be detailed as possible. Any and all help is appreciated!
Oh yeah I also replaced idle air control valve… And before someone asks, yes I did make sure code was cleared before starting
It back up.Is there an EGR flow sensor?
The Crown Vic I had actually had a sensor that it used to determine how much EGR flow there was. Failure of this was fairly common, which would cause the ECU to throw a code with a very similar description to yours.
The sensor in question is called a “DPFE sensor” in the mod motors (stands for “delta pressure flow-EGR”).
There is no dpfe or Pfe sensor on this truck.
In this link is ford schematic for egr system. Its for 93 but same as 95.
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/5ft4o-ford-f-150-5-0-dpfe-sensor.html
All parts involved in the system I have replaced with new ones. Except PCM of course
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