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Hey Eric! My name is Harvey Philemon and I am subscribed to your forum just haven’t been on in a while. I love your videos and all the help you’ve provided. I have a 95 Honda Civic ex sedan. It’s been tinkered with by a previous owner, yay me lol. I’ve tried everything in my knowledge base to help fix this. I am certified through American Honda Motors through Acura from Greensburg PA. The motor in the car is a D15B7 bottom end and a Z6 head. Known as the “mini me”. Automatic transmission. I have yet to check the timing but that’s my next venture with it. Just don’t remember 100% how to set timing on the “mini me” swap. So here’s what happens. When the motors cold. Either being cold out side or not it idles rough. And I mean rough! (Found out I need to replace motor mounts rough) I’ve cleaned the IACV and did your adjustment on the FITV. Oh and I forgot to mention how the IACV and the FITV use coolant to function. Along with the throttle body. The previous owner had all these blocked off. So I’ve reconnected all these lines. As well as on the upper back part of the intake manifold there was a vacuum port blocked off and the only spot I saw it could connect to was the charcoal canister on the firewall just above the transmission. The throttle body idle screw had been played with. So I turned it all the way back in and backed it off 1/4-1/2 turn. Where it should be. I’ve bled the coolant system to expel any air. It does have the bleeder valve on the front of the engine. So what I’m asking is what am I missing? Once the car warms up and gets to temperature it idles roughly 1,500-2,000 rpms in park and when in drive it drops to 1,000 rpm. It won’t go to the regular 600-750 rpm standard idle for a civic. Once it starts to drop like that cold or warm it will start going rough again and shut its self off. Any ideas or questions please feel free to email me back or you’re welcome to call me ( if celebrities can do that lol) thanks again for all your knowledge and expertise!
Staying dirty!!
Harvey Philemon
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You will have two holes in the throttle body when you remove
the air ducting. The upper hole is for the IAC and the lower
hole is for the FITV. Put your finger over the lower hole first
to see if the idle comes down. If so FITV is the problem. see if
this link helps.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Your modifications may have something to do with the issue. That said I cover Honda idle issues extensively in the article College man posted. I suggest you look that over to see if you can find information to help you with that problem.
Good luck and keep us posted.
After you run out of diagnostics, try brake cleaner shots around the engine head and throttle body. I am KISS guy. Cold metal – cracks/gaps open. Hot metal – they close. Due to expansion. That’s where I’d have started.
Unfortunately, with all the swaps, “not sure if it’s right” timing, and too many fingers meddling with that car, anything is possible.Yeah. I am just getting frustrated with it. But I’ll check the link above and give it another good once over and I’ll let everyone know my outcome! Thanks again for all the assistance
One thing for sure, idle is AWFULLY high. Like as if you have throttle plate stuck open. OR, air leak somewhere along throttle body. You realize, engines actually accelerate not because you add more petrol but because you let more air in.
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